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Ported/Modified intake VS Stock Manifold PICS :)

22K views 72 replies 30 participants last post by  dieselracer 
#1 · (Edited)
Here you go guys... i just finished the swap. big thanks to rick crawford (g8-4speed)









Here are the dyno # from BEFORE & AFTER jumped 6whp & 18 # of trq
Before= Vararam Intake
After=ORSSOM intake, Ricks Ported TB & Modified intake manifold. With no changes to the tune.
 
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9
#3 ·
How's the throttle response feel? Looks great BTW.

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#10 ·
I need me one of these!!
 
#11 ·
Nice just got mine today
 

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#14 ·
I think mine will take longer. Got fuel rails too.
 

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#16 ·
Those rails look sweet which ones are they?
 
#17 ·
Removal is super easy. Disconnect fuel rail in bolt intake bolts disconnect hoses and be really careful with the one in the back.


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#18 ·
Anybody can chime in on this but more towards DRUM or Rick. I plan on getting a Livernois cam/and Circle D put in this spring. Livernois will then dyno tune it after the install, will it be better to already have the ported tb and manifold on the car so it is a part of the dyno tune or will it not effect the tune that much to the point where I could install it after the dyno tune and not have to worry about leaving tq/hp on the table.
 
#19 ·
Def get the intake and tb on the car BEFORE the dyno. Many of us who run Ricks intake and tb had to have our tune adjusted after switching.

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#20 ·
Best mod for the buck right here! With ricks intake you will definitely notice more top end pull. I'm extremely happy with mine.
 
#25 ·
I see the floor to ceiling supports are removed and it looks like something is added on the left and right sides near where the runners open. But what is it? Purpose?
 
#26 ·
better air flow!!! from what Rick has explained to me they (the specially designed and fabbed stainless runners) create a rotation in the air which increases the volume and velocity of the air coming through. His custom design using stainless (i think) for the runner; back up by results from his flow bench and proven track gains. Any more and you may want to contact him- He is a mastermind. LS-4-Speed@nc.rr.com
 
#27 ·
Interesting! I always wondered about removing the supports and any negative side effects. I wonder why they are there anyway?!
 
#28 ·
I think the posts keep the air from tumbling turbulently though the intake. But after removing them and adding the runners you control the path and velocity of the air. At least that is what i have gathered in my conversations with Rick. Take that with a grain of salt, as he gets over my head real quick in conversations...
 
#30 ·
also... if anyone wants to read about this intake go to Google and search for ...

"Ported" L76 intake gains- flow bench, Track times, dyno, HPT scans

It will pop right up, he talks about why and how it works I believe in that thread.
 
#31 ·
Cool I'll check it out. Thanks!
 
#32 ·
Its best to have all your mods ready and have it tuned once. Gears, stalls, TB, intakes, ect...

There was two episode of intakes for me. First was porting, tried everything and got nothing. It would flow the same as stock no matter what. 20+ hours in a intake and nothing other than hurting port velocity from making all the runners bigger. Gave up....

Time comes and I get another request for intake work and decide not to give another reponse of "nothing is there....". Over my earlier frustration, it is back to work....This time I got an idea. With flowing heads on a flow bench, you always use a radius plate on the port to make sure you get clean air running thru the head. Flow numbers are terrible without it. This gave me the idea of trying a radiused mold on the knife edge of the port entry in the plenum. POOF! like magic it started flowing better without touching the port. Next problem was coming up with something that's practical, cost effective, and could be installed in the plenum without worrying about it coming un-glued, loose, or have the chance of making its way into the motor. Molds and epoxy were out, couldn't be trusted long-term. Especially with all the oil that gets in to the intake. Looking around the shop I found some tubing and decided to try it, gave the same results. Tried several different sizes, even got a few special cnc's wood dowels from Jeremy, until settling on what I am using now. Finally got an intake that shows promise but will it deliver? Anyone who knows me can tell you it wasn't going to the dyno, it was going the track. If it doesn't go faster, then a better dyno number means nothing....With my car I only installed the bars. No cleanup, no pillars removed, nothing.....just the bars installed. Before the intake, it was running 11.80's-70's @116 with my 2800 stall and 285/40-18 drag radials. Now with a 2600 stall and 285/40-18 BFG KDW street tires. Made two separate trip to the track over two months and 11.70's-60's both time @118-119. On a side note, when just porting the intakes, I had the car as slow as 12.0's @114-115 when I tried to radius the knife edge in the plenum. It really hurt the flow numbers... Tested, worked, now to try and get good results beyond my car......

Virus would be the first, his went 11.90 @116+ at @+1200DA with tires I call "hockey pucks"....also his heads and intake is the first data put on the board to show the flow difference but collectively not separately. He was very helpful with all is support since my data and feedback looks bias....

Jeremy, Brent, Dave, and few other shortly followed and it has been gaining momentum ever since. Jeremy did a back to back dyno pull with good results as was the rest of his combination. Brent finally made it to the track as well as Dave. Brent put the stall stall N/A bar pretty high for such a mild cam running 12.0's at 117 during GONE. Dave had nice gains over his previous 1/4 runs and put tail lights on a G8 sporting the new 250cc PRC heads. John set a PB with 11.67 @119+ just bolting on the intake and running at the track, then went to NewEra for a tune update and settled at 18hp gain. Now with a good Possy on my side it is just a matter of staying on top of everything that comes along with it. Emails, tunes, and the work. All keeps me very busy since this is just a side venture to my other two jobs....

End result: Simple, effective, practical, cost effective, and similar price to other "ported" intakes. Next .....getting separation from the "typical" ported intake circle.:bs: Again, not ported, MODIFIED... But people generally look for a "ported" intake just like they do with heads which means want something that flows better for more power. Problem is nothing "ported" with this manifold really generates much of anything. I have seen some cut out the pillars but you can't measure any gains on a flow bench. It doesn't show anything. The math shows more volume but there is already enough so it is speculation to what it is worth. Plus port flow is still the same so it would be combination sensitive and gains would be minimum to none. Who wants to buy a "maybe"? I have put a ton of work in follow-up, tuning, and advice with all my initial intake buyers and with their help the intake speaks for itself. It isn't just a "ported intake", it is a AirRam with the potential to be faster........

Not here to sell you a ported intake, I don't have any.......
 
#35 ·
Its best to have all your mods ready and have it tuned once. Gears, stalls, TB, intakes, ect...

There was two episode of intakes for me. First was porting, tried everything and got nothing. It would flow the same as stock no matter what. 20+ hours in a intake and nothing other than hurting port velocity from making all the runners bigger. Gave up....

Time comes and I get another request for intake work and decide not to give another reponse of "nothing is there....". Over my earlier frustration, it is back to work....This time I got an idea. With flowing heads on a flow bench, you always use a radius plate on the port to make sure you get clean air running thru the head. Flow numbers are terrible without it. This gave me the idea of trying a radiused mold on the knife edge of the port entry in the plenum. POOF! like magic it started flowing better without touching the port. Next problem was coming up with something that's practical, cost effective, and could be installed in the plenum without worrying about it coming un-glued, loose, or have the chance of making its way into the motor. Molds and epoxy were out, couldn't be trusted long-term. Especially with all the oil that gets in to the intake. Looking around the shop I found some tubing and decided to try it, gave the same results. Tried several different sizes, even got a few special cnc's wood dowels from Jeremy, until settling on what I am using now. Finally got an intake that shows promise but will it deliver? Anyone who knows me can tell you it wasn't going to the dyno, it was going the track. If it doesn't go faster, then a better dyno number means nothing....With my car I only installed the bars. No cleanup, no pillars removed, nothing.....just the bars installed. Before the intake, it was running 11.80's-70's @116 with my 2800 stall and 285/40-18 drag radials. Now with a 2600 stall and 285/40-18 BFG KDW street tires. Made two separate trip to the track over two months and 11.70's-60's both time @118-119. On a side note, when just porting the intakes, I had the car as slow as 12.0's @114-115 when I tried to radius the knife edge in the plenum. It really hurt the flow numbers... Tested, worked, now to try and get good results beyond my car......

Virus would be the first, his went 11.90 @116+ at @+1200DA with tires I call "hockey pucks"....also his heads and intake is the first data put on the board to show the flow difference but collectively not separately. He was very helpful with all is support since my data and feedback looks bias....

Jeremy, Brent, Dave, and few other shortly followed and it has been gaining momentum ever since. Jeremy did a back to back dyno pull with good results as was the rest of his combination. Brent finally made it to the track as well as Dave. Brent put the stall stall N/A bar pretty high for such a mild cam running 12.0's at 117 during GONE. Dave had nice gains over his previous 1/4 runs and put tail lights on a G8 sporting the new 250cc PRC heads. John set a PB with 11.67 @119+ just bolting on the intake and running at the track, then went to NewEra for a tune update and settled at 18hp gain. Now with a good Possy on my side it is just a matter of staying on top of everything that comes along with it. Emails, tunes, and the work. All keeps me very busy since this is just a side venture to my other two jobs....

End result: Simple, effective, practical, cost effective, and similar price to other "ported" intakes. Next .....getting separation from the "typical" ported intake circle.:bs: Again, not ported, MODIFIED... But people generally look for a "ported" intake just like they do with heads which means want something that flows better for more power. Problem is nothing "ported" with this manifold really generates much of anything. I have seen some cut out the pillars but you can't measure any gains on a flow bench. It doesn't show anything. The math shows more volume but there is already enough so it is speculation to what it is worth. Plus port flow is still the same so it would be combination sensitive and gains would be minimum to none. Who wants to buy a "maybe"? I have put a ton of work in follow-up, tuning, and advice with all my initial intake buyers and with their help the intake speaks for itself. It isn't just a "ported intake", it is a AirRam with the potential to be faster........

Not here to sell you a ported intake, I don't have any.......

Well said Rick. Very happy with this mod, great bang for the buck, even better with a cammed car. Thats for all your help.
 
#33 ·
^^^ Damn, very well said Rick. Rick's intake works magnificently, flat out truth.
Many people will testify. Don't get hung up on the word "porting" like he said. Want hp gains and the car to go faster? Get Rick's "ram air" modified intake. End of story. He's done his research and testing and has figured it out. IT WORKS. Kudos to him too for figuring out what works and what doesn't.
 
#36 ·
Thanks for thaking the time to post that Rick it answered a ton of questions I had about your intake and the theory/myth of "porting" them. It appears in your case you re-engineer the ls3 intake.

Do you feel your intake would be a worthwile upgrade in a forced induction application? I know the dowel modification is used as you said to create better flow into the runners but Im not sure it would matter as much when the manifold is pressurized. Also the floor supports being removed on a pressurized intake may cause structural issues. Waht do you think?
 
#37 ·
Thanks for thaking the time to post that Rick it answered a ton of questions I had about your intake and the theory/myth of "porting" them. It appears in your case you re-engineer the ls3 intake.

Do you feel your intake would be a worth while upgrade in a forced induction application? I know the dowel modification is used as you said to create better flow into the runners but Im not sure it would matter as much when the manifold is pressurized. Also the floor supports being removed on a pressurized intake may cause structural issues. Waht do you think?

There is more "pressure" on the manifold during vacuum than boost in most mild street applications cases. When you decel, there is @ 10-12psi of pressure on the outside of the manifold. The factory manifold is tuffer without the supports than the FAST so it will hold more boost than a FAST if that helps give a reference. Worth it? Airflow is power. You can make the same power with boost but it will take a few more psi to do it. End result of power on boost is what you can make N/A since boost is a multiplier. 400 hp is 800 with 15psi, 350 is 700 with 15 psi in which case it would take 20 psi to make 800hp. So don't give up power N/A unless you have a reason. Try not to give up anything on motor unless you have to. I feel some guys get too carried away with "blower cams" that they give up too much N/A and have to push more boost to make up the difference which doesn't make any sense. The intake will help you make more with less or more with more. I can always make a couple of changes to make it more solid with boost but it would just be thicker bars and plastic welding around the floor plugs.

A little info on the plugs....The intake plugs have a receiver groove cut around it on the inside of the cup and v-cut on the plenum floor to anchor the epoxy even if it was to loose its bond. And if you were to go to the far-reach "what-if", the epoxy can only fall out, not in because of the step in the floor. To actually fall-out, the intake would have to come off since it sits on the lifter valley plate. Chances are, if you break a plug out of the intake, it is the least of your problems.....
 
#40 ·
Got two intakes and TBs on the way to Rick now. Can't wait to get them back!!



 
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