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post #1 of 33 (permalink) Old 03-19-2017, 10:24 PM Thread Starter
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Help rear end noise when turning right

So the car is a low miles 36k or so with a 3.27 rear end that was installed about 3k miles ago. I did the install and the fluid was filled with Royal Purple 75-90 and all seemed well with the exception of a slight gear whine. I attributed this to just a slightly louder gear set and bushings.

This week I noted that the car started making noise when turning right. At first I thought it was stuff rolling around in the trunk. I had some tools in there from when I was breaking my damn wing into pieces removing it. Anyway, today I swap mufflers back to the GXP's and clean the trunk out. On the first drive I realize I have a problem right turns make a noise that could be descibed as a scraping gravel type sound with clunking. The clunking you could feel in the floor boards if you go fast enough and turn sharp enought. (20 mph right hand turn). I can also make the sounds just turning circles in my court. Turning left or going straight I have not noise. This occurs regardess of if the car is hot or cold.

I just replaced the fluid. I could not see any metal in the fluid. It was black and stank with a little sluge like goo on the plugs but other than that it was clean. Replacing the fluid seemed to have little affect on the noise other than perhaps the clunks might not be as loud. I again used Royal Purple 75-90.

I'm not sure if the axles, the diferential or what I should do next to find the problem. I can turn a wrench and change out parts but I'm not sure I want to break that thing open. I'm not really looking forward to pulling the axles out again simply because getting a decent alignment around here is such a PITA.

Open to suggestions and any advice would be appreciated. Not sure why a new differential would go bad so soon if that's whats happened? I'm hoping maybe it's something else I have not thought of.

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post #2 of 33 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 07:27 AM
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Just throwing this out there - Doesn't GM limited slips need a special friction modifier added to the diff fluid?
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post #3 of 33 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 08:36 AM
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Quote:
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Just throwing this out there - Doesn't GM limited slips need a special friction modifier added to the diff fluid?
This is correct. Royal Purple claims to come with modifier but doesnt seem to help quiet things down. Use Oem fluid you cant go wrong and proven to work just fine. Add the LSD additive and you are all set.

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post #4 of 33 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 11:38 AM Thread Starter
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I guess I could drain some of the fluid and add the modifier to the Royal purple? I find it had to believe this is the issue though since it was fine for a few thousand miles and then suddenly the rubbing gravely banging sound when turning right. Also I know a few others running the same fluid with out issue. I'm willing to give it a go but just doubtfull due to my historically bad luck.

I guess what is throwing me is why would it only be noisy when turning right and not turning left as well? Is there anything I should check with the axles? Is there any adjustment inside the Diff that might need to be made?

I do have my stock rear end I can put back in but I really don't want to do that as just a test.

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post #5 of 33 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 12:02 PM
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For the sake of clarification when we installed the diff in Morris car we used oem mobile one and oem friction modifier.
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post #6 of 33 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 12:27 PM Thread Starter
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Another acronym for OEM= old erroneous memory. At least in my case lol. Anyway, I'm postitive that it has RP in it now, I can normally recall at least one or two days. Based on some of the reading I have been doing I think I'm going to do as suggested and add some additoinal modifier, what have I got to loose? I really don't want to pull that thing out.

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post #7 of 33 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 06:27 PM Thread Starter
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The friction modifier was added and then I went for a few mile drive and did a massive amount of circles in each direction in an effor to work in the modifier. Unfortunately the problem persists. It sounds very much like the right rear tire is rubbing on the fender well liner. It's not, but that's sort of like what it sounds like but if a truck tread rather than the smoother tread of my tire.

Strange thing, I can make the sound just by going 15 mph or so and abruptly turning the wheel to the right. As soon as the weight shifts the noise starts. It seems odd to me that the noise would start so soon on initail turn in. Do wheel bearings going bad sound anything like what a rear diff would sound like?

Also the faster I go the worse the noise. I guess I'll be making an apt. at the dealer unless someone chimes in with another suggestion as I'm at a loss.

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post #8 of 33 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 08:29 PM Thread Starter
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No noticable play at all on in the wheels, probably not the bearings but it does make sounds like others have described with exection that my noise seems to be on the right when turning right. If it was a bearing it should be making noise on the right when turning left correct?

Turning the wheels forward or back either side and either way will rotate about an inch or less before you hear it clunk in the differential and engage.

I'm running out of ideas.

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post #9 of 33 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 11:39 PM
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If I were you i'd put the stock differential back on to see if problem persists. Then continue troubleshooting from there on out. I would avoid stealership at all costs lol but that's me I'm poor ha
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post #10 of 33 (permalink) Old 03-21-2017, 08:21 AM Thread Starter
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Paying the dealer to trouble shoot is going to be 110 bucks. Swapping out to the stock Diff means another alignment and than 100 bucks, either way I'm out cash and I'm poor at the moment as well.

I just don't want to pull it out if it's something else like the axles or something I have failed to consider. I was hoping I would get more responses and ideas before I pull the trigger on a removal.

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post #11 of 33 (permalink) Old 03-21-2017, 01:23 PM
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It sounds more like a bad wheel bearing on the right side of the car, especially if it's a growling sound.
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post #12 of 33 (permalink) Old 03-21-2017, 01:42 PM
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I am also guessing a right rear wheel bearing

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post #13 of 33 (permalink) Old 03-21-2017, 02:12 PM Thread Starter
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I need to find a good DIY guide to taking that appart. I have read that they can go bad even if there is no play in the wheel so it could be. Actually, I would much rather it be that than the diff.

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post #14 of 33 (permalink) Old 03-21-2017, 03:32 PM
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I just changed both my rear wheel bearings this week. It's not fun!

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post #15 of 33 (permalink) Old 03-21-2017, 03:52 PM Thread Starter
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2 G8's,

I have a few questions (ok a bunch) for you if you don't mind. Did you have to remove the knuckle or is there a short cut? What press did you use? What bearings did you go with GM 92171057 ? I was reading that no alignment would be needed but that seems too good to be true.

Any tips you may have for me while it's still fresh in your mind would be appreciated. Did you use the knuckle replacemnet guide 2106601 or some other guide if any. This will be my first time doing the bearings.

Lastly, did your car have the same symptoms as mine? Did it have any play in the wheel? Did you notice any MPG changes before or after the replacement.

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post #16 of 33 (permalink) Old 03-21-2017, 06:34 PM
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Based on the above I'd agree...sounds like a bad wheel bearing or maybe a CV joint in the axle?

Probably just have to remove the rear knuckle and either unbolt the bearing from the knuckle (if it's a unit bearing type) or press off the old bearing and then press on the new one.

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post #17 of 33 (permalink) Old 03-21-2017, 07:40 PM
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2 G8's,

I have a few questions (ok a bunch) for you if you don't mind. Did you have to remove the knuckle or is there a short cut? What press did you use? What bearings did you go with GM 92171057 ? I was reading that no alignment would be needed but that seems too good to be true.

Any tips you may have for me while it's still fresh in your mind would be appreciated. Did you use the knuckle replacemnet guide 2106601 or some other guide if any. This will be my first time doing the bearings.

Lastly, did your car have the same symptoms as mine? Did it have any play in the wheel? Did you notice any MPG changes before or after the replacement.

I'll do my best to answer your questions.

Yes I did remove the knuckle, I did not use a press but instead a brass hammer. The bearings i used were SKF fw88 that I paid $147 Canadian a piece for. I had no symptoms at all, but I did a CTS V 2 Brembo upgrade front and back and chose to use 2015 Chevy SS backing plates and that was the only reason for replacing the wheel bearings because they come apart when removing the hub to remove the backing plate. If you have anymore questions feel free to ask!

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post #18 of 33 (permalink) Old 03-22-2017, 10:12 PM
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Sounds like you have scorched the clutch pack in your diff by running wrong diff fluid without a modifier. when turning one tire spins faster then the other and the clutches let this happen without dragging the slower tire , if your clutch surface is worn out you will get a grinding sound in the diff this also happens when you run different size tires on a limited slip differential for any period of time we have a positive locking limited slip that allows us to powerstall and lock up to spin both tires but opens up for non power turning and slip, i would definitely try oem setup exactly as recommended and see what happens, mine has 161k with alot i mean alot of power stalls and races on factory oil im going to change diff fluid soon but know i have to be very careful in fluid choice good luck with your issue

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post #19 of 33 (permalink) Old 03-23-2017, 09:07 AM Thread Starter
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Sounds like you have scorched the clutch pack in your diff by running wrong diff fluid without a modifier. when turning one tire spins faster then the other and the clutches let this happen without dragging the slower tire , if your clutch surface is worn out you will get a grinding sound in the diff this also happens when you run different size tires on a limited slip differential for any period of time we have a positive locking limited slip that allows us to powerstall and lock up to spin both tires but opens up for non power turning and slip, i would definitely try oem setup exactly as recommended and see what happens, mine has 161k with alot i mean alot of power stalls and races on factory oil im going to change diff fluid soon but know i have to be very careful in fluid choice good luck with your issue

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The new diff was filled with the correct fluid and modifer (Yeti corrected my earlier statement in the original post). It was after the symptoms started that I drained the fluid and then went with RP fluid. What ever is wrong with the car can not be attributed to the fluid that was used.


Also as for whats in it now, plenty of others have run the RP with out issue. Some have though, and for that reason I added the friction modifier even though the RP has friction modifiers in it. This fluid was used because it was available and I wanted to see what the original fluid looked like. The fluid looked fine.


Next step lift the car again, remove the brakes, spin the wheel and feel the springs. Supposedly you can feel if a bearing is bad that way. Worth a shot, the wheel has no play in it and it's the last easy test I know of. I'm not looking to waste any more money on parts or fluids etc. than I have to.


To be honest, I'm a bit tired of wrenching on this thing.......It just may sit for a while until my bucket of motivation is refilled.

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post #20 of 33 (permalink) Old 03-23-2017, 09:22 AM
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second that...Bearing or CV knuckle
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