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post #1 of 151 (permalink) Old 11-25-2012, 08:26 PM Thread Starter
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Engine Blown need help!

So i left for dallas 5 days ago and on the way there i started hearing a little dinging sound when i went to pass a car. Basically sounded like i blew a spark wire off the spark plug and started hitting my ARH. After 50 miles it started sounding louder and luckily right then and there i cut a car off (sorry car but my car is more important) and pulled off the exit that was right there. I pulled into a little dirt parking area and immediately turned my car off. Looked inside my engine and no spark plugs were undone. Turned the car on and the sound go even worse so turned car back off. Look at the oil and has metal shaving in it, then basically cused the hole world apart basically. Then basically my parents came and picked my up, made me start the car 3 times and made it even worse, told them no and they started it anyways. Tow trucker came and started it to put car in neutral basically started crying. and then when we got home tow trucker droped it off and my sister went to start it to put in neutral when i told her not to start the car, so we could move it the car in the drive way. so with all the damn start ups more likely my whole engine is blown but im hoping only the bottom end is. If the bottom end is bad should i go with a lsx 408c.i.d. bottom end- mostly stock, woried that top end wont fit, so i can basicly build for a big turbo car or should i get the same bottom end but mostly upgraded, or a 402c.i.d. ls2/l76 bottom basicly fully loaded? I dont think GM would cover this since i tuned it and have the livernois 1C Cam Kit and 1 1/7th ARH Headers on, unless a GM person on here could help me out? My car is 4 years old and has 36k miles on it. Any help please



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post #2 of 151 (permalink) Old 11-25-2012, 08:45 PM
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Warranty? Lol.


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post #3 of 151 (permalink) Old 11-25-2012, 08:59 PM
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Sounds like a spun rod bearing to me. Can't tell for sure without hearing it but from how you describe the noise it's a very good possibility. I spun a bearing about a year ago. It started out sounding like a chirp then turned into a knock. I was fortunate enough to find a stock crank on eBay for $60 + shipping that came out of a 6.0 Tahoe. I was able to do the crank swap without pulling the engine too. I was able to get the car back on the road for about $300. I chalked up the bearing failure to low oil pressure so when I did the swap I also put in a Melling high flow/high pressure pump. I wish I had taken pictures when I swapped the crank and did a write up. It was surprisingly easy doing the swap with the engine still in the car.

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post #4 of 151 (permalink) Old 11-25-2012, 09:18 PM Thread Starter
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well i know my bumper to bumper is already up from what the guy said its already passed do to the years but i was wandering about the powertrain warrenty that is suppose to last up to 5 years or 10,000 miles, im just wondering if im covered or not because of my car? If not a new stock engine is 6.5k and a good bottom end would be around the same from what im looking at. For the 364 C.I.D (stock bottom) the upgrade parts would be wiseco -3.2cc, Callies Compstar i beam, Callies Dragonslayer, and then arp main stud kit total 6.5k. For the 402 C.I.D wiseco -15cc, Lunati H beam, and Lunati Pro Series (1,500+ hp) crank, and ArP main stud kit. The LSX 408 C.I.D would be the same set up as 402 C.I.D but with -3cc wisecos price 8.3k. I really dont have the money right now so im going to have to save up anyways thats why im hoping gm might be able to cover it so i can get my car back on the road, but if they cant what do yall think?



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post #5 of 151 (permalink) Old 11-25-2012, 09:22 PM
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Warranty isn't going to help you if you have a cam and a tune.


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post #6 of 151 (permalink) Old 11-25-2012, 09:30 PM Thread Starter
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?NR=1&v=...ture=endscreen

This isnt my car but basicly what my car sounds like.

go to 1:20 for quicker way to sound.



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post #7 of 151 (permalink) Old 11-25-2012, 09:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silentlegion View Post
well i know my bumper to bumper is already up from what the guy said its already passed do to the years but i was wandering about the powertrain warrenty that is suppose to last up to 5 years or 10,000 miles, im just wondering if im covered or not because of my car? If not a new stock engine is 6.5k and a good bottom end would be around the same from what im looking at. For the 364 C.I.D (stock bottom) the upgrade parts would be wiseco -3.2cc, Callies Compstar i beam, Callies Dragonslayer, and then arp main stud kit total 6.5k. For the 402 C.I.D wiseco -15cc, Lunati H beam, and Lunati Pro Series (1,500+ hp) crank, and ArP main stud kit. The LSX 408 C.I.D would be the same set up as 402 C.I.D but with -3cc wisecos price 8.3k. I really dont have the money right now so im going to have to save up anyways thats why im hoping gm might be able to cover it so i can get my car back on the road, but if they cant what do yall think?
GM will not cover this and there is no reason they should. Cam, headers, and if I remember from your other thread you were doing some tuning yourself with HPTuners? Sorry to rain on your parade, but powertrain warranty was gone as soon as the mods went on. You can get away with a CAI and in some cases even headers, but once you replace engine internals and decide to do some "self" tuning you are on your own.
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post #8 of 151 (permalink) Old 11-25-2012, 09:47 PM
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Quote:
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GM will not cover this and there is no reason they should. Cam, headers, and if I remember from your other thread you were doing some tuning yourself with HPTuners? Sorry to rain on your parade, but powertrain warranty was gone as soon as the mods went on. You can get away with a CAI and in some cases even headers, but once you replace engine internals and decide to do some "self" tuning you are on your own.
I would not assume this. Most dealerships want to do the work, so it is worth asking. I'd even ask another dealership if the first one says no.


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post #9 of 151 (permalink) Old 11-25-2012, 09:47 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Joe'sFastG8 thats what i was expecting since when i blew a Haromic Balancer Bolt basicly GM gave me hell for not being able to fix the problem. They were going to charge me for a whole new engine it self over that bolt but i went some were else gave them a new bolt and they put it in and no problems since then till this engine problem. But ill try to convince my mom to let me try to find the problem, she wont even let me open up my hood right now even though i did most of the work for the cam so i have enough confidence in myself to at least be able to spot the problem.



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post #10 of 151 (permalink) Old 11-25-2012, 10:01 PM Thread Starter
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dos anyone know what the problem might be just from the sound?



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post #11 of 151 (permalink) Old 11-25-2012, 10:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silentlegion View Post
dos anyone know what the problem might be just from the sound?
I agree with LittleRedRacer, sounds like you spun a rod bearing. Won't know for sure until you tear into it, but that would be a good guess based on the video you posted.
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post #12 of 151 (permalink) Old 11-25-2012, 10:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silentlegion View Post
http://www.youtube.com/watch?NR=1&v=...ture=endscreen

This isnt my car but basicly what my car sounds like.

go to 1:20 for quicker way to sound.
Is the sound louder under the car than it is above? If it's louder underneath and it's is at crank speed, then it sounds like that and the presence of metal in the oil, it's a spun bearing. Connecting rod is just flopping around on an ovaled out crank journal. The only other thing I can think of that would cause the presence of metal in the oil would be if a lifter turned. That would have a very different sound. Lot's of squeeling utill the roller would break then lots of higher pitched clunking as the lifter rattles around on the cam and whacks the pushrod against the rocker.

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post #13 of 151 (permalink) Old 11-25-2012, 10:22 PM
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One more thing... A quick and easy way to determine if it is rod noise is to individually unplug and plug in the spark plug wire on one cylinder at a time and see if the noise get's quieter or goes away completely.

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post #14 of 151 (permalink) Old 11-25-2012, 10:40 PM Thread Starter
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It sounds like top because it was some what quite/load when i first pulled off the road now it just sounds like hell load, like you really don't want to turn it on. But there is no oil dripping out of the bottom so thats a good sign that the engine block is still good right?



Mods: HID's, New Engine, New Tune, VCM OTR CAI, 1 7/8 ARH to Solo exhaust, Spoiler, Gxp rear defuser, Custom Sound System, Suspension, Brakes, and lowered.
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post #15 of 151 (permalink) Old 11-26-2012, 01:56 AM
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I had a turned lifter and it squealed loudly as it drug across the cam. Sounded horrible, but not like the sound you describe.

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post #16 of 151 (permalink) Old 11-26-2012, 02:17 AM
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Lifter came to my mind at first. How about a lightly used ls3?

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post #17 of 151 (permalink) Old 11-26-2012, 06:17 AM
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well, warranty is def not going to cover it..... I'd say just pull the heads and check your lifters. I'd say trouble shoot the easy to tackle problems first...... At this point you don't have much to lose

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post #18 of 151 (permalink) Old 11-26-2012, 07:55 AM
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I say find an ls3 from a wrecked vette or camaro. Or send this motor out and get it built!
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post #19 of 151 (permalink) Old 11-26-2012, 08:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silentlegion View Post
It sounds like top because it was some what quite/load when i first pulled off the road now it just sounds like hell load, like you really don't want to turn it on. But there is no oil dripping out of the bottom so thats a good sign that the engine block is still good right?
Easiest way to tell if it's a lifter is determine how frequently you hear the sound. With a spun rod bearing you will hear the sound at engine speed. Typically with a lifter problem you will hear the sound at half the speed of the crank. Here's my car when I spun a bearing http://m.youtube.com/?reload=4&rdm=m...t_tab=comments

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LS7 MAF, ZR1 MAP, 160 stat, Melling HF/HV Oil pump, B&M Trans Cooler, Snow Stage 3, RPM 505 19's staggered 275R & 245F Continental Extreme Contact DW, Eibach Springs, Koni Struts, Lovells bushes, BMR Sways, eBay Catch Can, HID's, lot's of audio improvements & interior stuff.
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post #20 of 151 (permalink) Old 11-26-2012, 11:01 AM
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ls3 w/ a stroker kit, do it! lol

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