How to Replace Lower Control Arms - Page 2 - Pontiac G8 Forum: G8 Forums - G8Board.com
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post #21 of 26 (permalink) Old 11-21-2012, 07:19 AM
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Pickle fork didn't. Only thing that work was wacking a big hammer on the bolt about a hundred times.

Off-topic, when you install a new strut mount, how tight do the two top nuts need to be? One nut holds the mount and one nut holds the strut to the body of the car.
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post #22 of 26 (permalink) Old 11-21-2012, 08:41 AM
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Doesn't anyone else have subscriptions to All Data DIY? For $44.95 for the first car, you get a 5-year sub and access to nearly every piece of info about the car, including wiring diagrams, codes, troubleshooting guides, etc. I have subs for all my cars, and on only a coupld of occasions did I not find the info I needed. It even has part numbers for everything, although they are always subject to GM revision.

http://www.alldatadiy.com/

And, FWIW, the last time I replaced the CRs, my GM ball joint separator (the correct one for our cars) would simply not work. A pickle fork wouldn't work. I ended up hammering on the ball joint thread end, and they popped right out. If you need to re-use the CR's (just replacing bushings) then use an old nut on the end to hammer on.

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post #23 of 26 (permalink) Old 11-21-2012, 08:47 AM
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Originally Posted by BigZub View Post
Doesn't anyone else have subscriptions to All Data DIY? For $44.95 for the first car, you get a 5-year sub and access to nearly every piece of info about the car, including wiring diagrams, codes, troubleshooting guides, etc. I have subs for all my cars, and on only a coupld of occasions did I not find the info I needed. It even has part numbers for everything, although they are always subject to GM revision.

http://www.alldatadiy.com/

And, FWIW, the last time I replaced the CRs, my GM ball joint separator (the correct one for our cars) would simply not work. A pickle fork wouldn't work. I ended up hammering on the ball joint thread end, and they popped right out. If you need to re-use the CR's (just replacing bushings) then use an old nut on the end to hammer on.
My experience with manufacturer or pro install guides is they're written for installers that have access to industrial grade tools and already have extensive mechanical knowledge. For example, when I removed the rear shock, the GM guide made it sound so simple and did not recommend removing much to get the shock out. I ended up removing much more (end link and 2 control arms) and still struggled to wiggle it out of there.

I much prefer DIY written up by home mechanics or enthusiasts.
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post #24 of 26 (permalink) Old 11-21-2012, 10:24 AM
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Pickle fork didn't. Only thing that work was wacking a big hammer on the bolt about a hundred times.
Won't hammering on the bolt kill the ball joint? I've always heard that you're supposed to hammer what it goes through (steering knuckle).

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post #25 of 26 (permalink) Old 11-21-2012, 10:28 AM
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Won't hammering on the bolt kill the ball joint? I've always heard that you're supposed to hammer what it goes through (steering knuckle).
I replaced the whole arm, not just the ball joint so I didn't care about damaging it.
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post #26 of 26 (permalink) Old 11-21-2012, 12:53 PM
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Won't hammering on the bolt kill the ball joint? I've always heard that you're supposed to hammer what it goes through (steering knuckle).
Yes, it would generally do so. And sometimes just hitting the stud doesn't do the trick. A lot of times hitting the steering knuckle with a hammer works better for actually getting the thing to break loose. But yes, it would also damage the ball joint less. But the reason we replace LCAs is mainly because of the ball joints. Obviously the bushings could be a reason as well, but the ball joint will wear out before the bushings.

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