That doesn't seem right to me... I think it's the opposite. The wheel with the least weight will break traction first (although the consequence isn't going to be as great as if the one with the most weight broke traction).
I was taught that as more weight is added to a corner that tire's contact patch grows... increasing grip. This is why you trail brake... keeping the weight on the front increases the traction and your ability to turn. But too much weight to the front mid-corner and the rear will not have weight (so a smaller contact patch) and will break traction (oversteer).
That's why in an understeer situation you get off the gas or apply the brakes (transfering weight = grip) to the front... and why applying the brakes in an oversteer situation is a bad idea (less weight on rear = even less grip).
How this would apply to car setup and dampening settings is beyond me.
Our two points aren't in conflict, actually. It's all on a continuum. The wheel with the most weight will break traction if you're relying on that wheel. The wheel with the least weight will break traction if you're relying on that wheel. You're balancing weight on multiple points, and setting up the suspension to ensure no one tire is overloaded or underloaded while you're on track.
Case in point, you trail brake to load the front wheels to get the grip needed to turn. But if you toy with your sway bars and go 'round a track, you'll find that setting the roll resistance stronger up front and weaker in the back will result in understeer. The reason is that while leaving the front outside tire unloaded will limit the traction you can gain from the tire, similarly asking it to both turn the car and
handle the weight of the car as it rolls onto that corner will overload the tire and the overall grip of the car is reduced.
To help compensate, you set the roll resistance in the rear to firmer so that you're asking the front outside tire to turn and rear outside tire to handle more of the weight of the car. That way you're splitting the load, and the result is more overall grip.
I did this very thing between weekends one and two at VIR, and the corner grip available to me was noticeably better with the sway bar resistance biased toward the rear. With it biased further forward as it was my first weekend out, my front tires were howling through the corners!
Biasing the compression damping of the coilovers is essentially another way to stiffen the roll resistance of the vehicle overall, though it does also affect weight transfer.
Mind, there is obviously a point of diminishing returns. Setting the roll resistance fully forward won't give you infinite grip from the front tire, just as setting it fully rearward won't allow you to turn 90 degrees at 100 MPH because the rear tire says "OK!".
In short, the idea of transferring weight to gain grip is based on braking versus throttle, and is dynamic. Tuning the suspension to change which corners take the weight and how it's distributed is more static, and is what I'm dealing with in this case.
Yeah, I believe Todd's correct on that. Weight = Traction.
That's why they have you stiffen the rear and loosen the front to correct under steer (reduce under steer that is).
The stiffening of the rear deals with weight transfer, but also deals with splitting the weight on those outside tires. It's about tuning the suspension to balance which of the two outside tires are bearing the weight of the car through the turn.
In summary, it takes a combination of proper driving technique - managing the weight of the car dynamically - and proper suspension tuning - managing how the car wants to transfer its weight when you hit that corner - to produce a good, fast lap.