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Pacesetter Install Problems

5K views 40 replies 13 participants last post by  red281gt 
#1 ·
So I am trying to install my setter long tubes. The driver side header is hitting the motor mount. I can tighten everything up but the header tube hits the notor mount? I do have the updated mounts, not sure if that is the issue but I believe the updated mounts were factory installed on the 2009.5 models. Anyone else have this issue?
 
#2 ·
Never heard of any such issue. Positive you received headers for a G8 and not another LS powered vehicle?
 
#3 ·
By the way I understand it Pacesetter uses the same actual headers for the Camaro5 cars as the G8 just has different hardware and such. I have also not heard of a motor mount hitting on any G8 header. Ive heard of steering shaft and a collector turned up too much though.
 
#5 ·
It is hitting the brace.
 
#8 ·
I tried, I think I will just grind a little of the brace. What a pain in the A$$
 
#7 ·
It has 70-2259 stamped on header. Those are correct!
 
#10 ·
Can you confirm that you removed the steering shaft?
 
#12 ·
Crap, i wonder why it would hit the motor mount on that side. mine went it without disconnecting the steering shaft (both sides were installed from underneath), and then it was connected to the factory CB without any issues.
 
#13 ·
Well the passenger side went on with no issues. The babysitter called and my 7 month old was puking. Had to drop everything to pick her up. I will get back at it tonight when the fam is sleeping. I will provide update later.
 
#14 ·
Well I tried adjusting the driver side again and no luck. I removed the driver side and ground down the brace a bit. Maybe have an 1/8 of an inch clearance now. Now the next issue is the passenger side. The passenger side is really close to the floorboard at the flange where it connects to the midpipe. Anyone seen this? Its not hitting now but I bet under a hard accel it will hit the floorboard. I remember reading various posts with "easy install but I have a rattle from time to time, I will deal with later" Im not dealing with crap later. I only do things the correct way once.
I have tried adjusting the passenger side but there is not enough adjustment to get it far enough away from the floorboard. The only thing I can think is that the car is possibly twisted a bit on the jackstands causing the clearance issue. I am thinking of making some wheel cribs out of 2x4s to check the clearance in a "natural state". Good thing I have other vehicles to drive!
 
#15 ·
Oh and one more thing, the dipstick sucks. Were you guys ableto get the dipstick fully seated? How did you do it? Force?
 
#16 · (Edited)
Umm, makes me wonder if you got a set of the headers made late on Friday ?
You shouldn't have to fight the install like that, hopefully it'll be because of the jack stands as you mentioned.

If you go underneath and check where the disptick goes, you'll figure it must be locked in place by pressure, probably orings or something similar in shape ?, it seems you just have to line the end of the tube in the hole, and push it down, Lol, we're all used to this procedure ? :)

I didn't do the install myself, but watched the install, and i also checked how the disptick is positioned in place a couple of days ago when i was doing my oil change. The portion of the dipstick you grab with your finger to check the oil, won't clear the header primaries without a thick washer as well. something to keep in mind in case you get to bolt the items without any other issue.

If you bought them new, perhaps you should consider returning them and getting a new set, i know it sucks to be there, almost at the point you know you can get it to work, only to find it doesn't fit because the item is messed/bended or whatever.

Good luck dude.

Forgot to mention, the passenger side flange in mine, is closer to the floorboard compared to the driver side, not by much, but i noticed that too 2 days ago while changing the oil, there is no way the flange would hit the heat shield for example or anything aorund it, there is enough clearance for that, and the reason i always say this ****ers doesn't hang low compared to to other systems, i can try to take some pics for you tomorrow morning so you can have a better idea. (if it doesn't rain around here :)), i can mount her in my dino ramps and snap some pics.
 
#17 ·
I never ran into those problems well besides the dipstick being a pain in the ass. That was a bitch and half to get back in.
 
#18 ·
I would appreciate those pics if possible Bluegoat.
Yeah these must have been built before a long weekend or on a pissed employees last day.
 
#20 · (Edited)
Actually, both sides seem to be about the same, the lowest clerance with respect of the floorboard seems to be at the connecting pipe bracket level, there is about half finger space against the heatshield, it seems the guy who did my install, simple made an indentation close to the connecting pipe bracket, in the heatshields, on both sides.
I don't have rattles, and it doesn't seem to be hitting the heatshield, even though there is only half finger clearance, crazy. i launch this biatch at WOT every time i can when i wearing the DR's, and i don't think that portion is hitting anything.

Sorry for the phone pics, but hope it'll give you the idea.

This is the driver side, you'll notice the indentation in the heatshield, the gap between the heatshield and the connecting bracket is about half finger on both, driver and passenger side. the other pics are hard to see, but the gap is the same on both sides in this location.



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And this are passenger side, with shield indentation


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Passenger side, same indentation in the heatshield, just hard to see because of the pic.


Uploaded with ImageShack.us
 
#21 ·
OK Guys I got everything done. Here is what I found.
Dipstick: Once lined up correctly in the pan, go underneath with a 3 foot pry bar. Rest the end of the bar on the collar of the dipstick tube (the collar is what triggers you to know its not in far enough) find a good fulcrum point and pry. "Click" says the dipstick. Done

Passenger side clearance: Loosen everything underneath. The only bolts that should be tight are on the ones holding the headers to the heads. Align and realign and realign. It seems that my Driver side header was pushing the mid-pipe to far back causing the flange to hit the floorboard. Once everything was loose, The mid-pipe slid forward just enough to clear everything.

Thanks for the pics they really helped. I was able to look at your pics and say; "How the Heck are his so far forward. My flange is now where the floorboard ends and the tranny tunnel fire wall begin.
 
#22 ·
One last question, Do these headers have a natural "Tick" sound to them? I for the life of me cant find a leak but it seems there is a tick noise that can be heard from under the car. I cannot feel anything leaking at the joints. No steam coming from anywhere but the tailpipes. The tick cannot be heard inside the car. With a stethescope it sounds like every joint under there is leaking. Seeams to go away at around 1,000 RPM.
 
#23 ·
The headers will make your engine bay more noisy if that's what you mean. If that's what your referring to then that's normal.
 
#24 ·
Not so much the engine bay. If you are standing next the car it sounds a little "tickey" but not like full force exhaust tick sound. If that makes any sense.
 
#25 ·
Gotcha I think mine sounds like that too. I'll check it out next time I go out to the car
 
#29 ·
Honestly I don't think it is a leak. I went so far as to dissasemble and apply rtv to everything. Reinstalled and it sounds the same. I think it is just the nature of the headers at this point. Let me know if getting them welded changes anything. I have a welded sitting in the corner.........
 
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