I thought this might be a good place to throw around some ideas on what to use to clean our G8s. Anyone have any foolproof methods or products? I've hear Zaino used over on the GP boards. I also think I read that the interior can be a little tricky because the dashboard isn't leather.

So, inside and out...anyone have any suggestions?

I used turtewax soap to clean it with. Then used Klasse all-in-one protectant. I plan on going back over it this coming weekend with P21S 100% Carnauba wax. I went back over the car after applying the klasse with my california duster. It worked GREAT! I would never use it on a dirty car but using after it's been washed and after the protectant or a wax it was perfect.

I am very interested on how people are cleaning the inside of this car. I am not real happy with the surface on the passenger side. It collects everything in it and seems nearly impossible to clean. Also, interested in what people are using to clean and protect the seats. Not sure if a leather conditioner is going to be safe on them since they don't really feel like leather to me.

Good stuff.

I'm also interested in the engine compartment a little. I let my GP go to crap...I don't want to do the same to my new G8.

aerospace on the interior plastics and vinyl(no silicates)...best I have ever used!!
Zymol for the leather-cleaner,then protectant

outside-Mothers all the way around-they have stuff for the plastic and rubber(black), metal polishes(just for aluminum too)and the three part system for waxing,but now I skip the caranuba and go for the snywax for step 3

Zaino hands down.

Zaino hands down.
Yes! http://www.zainostore.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc

Z10 leather in a bottle in awesome.

I have used Zaino on my cars from the 2002 Camaro SS up through the current 2004 Bonnie GXP and my wife's 2005 Equinox LT. There is nothing better or easier. :biggrin2:

How about the black door window pieces? I have seen other brand vehicles that after a few years those pieces turn to a rainbow like finish. Anyone know how to prevent that?

I thought this might be a good place to throw around some ideas on what to use to clean our G8s. Anyone have any foolproof methods or products? I've hear Zaino used over on the GP boards. I also think I read that the interior can be a little tricky because the dashboard isn't leather.

So, inside and out...anyone have any suggestions?

I used final detail liquid wax(qvc)its great leaves a lovely shine too.Can wash and wax my magnetic gray G8 in less than 20 mins!!!!!!

I will put in another vote for the Zaino "system". I have yet to determine what I will use on the interior.

I was pleasently surprised with the factory finish. (no swirl marks, rail dust, etc). I was prepared to clay it but it wasn't needed.

I used Meguires car wash concentrate in a foam gun then dried it with a microfiber towel. I used Zaino AIO for the sealant and it couldn't have been easier.

Im not sure if ZAIO benefits from any further top coat. I know Zaino says multiple coats of ZAIO are a waist but I wonder if a good paste wax would be beneficial over ZAIO.

its all about how you protect the finish. GM paint is so soft, if you dont wash the car the right way you'll scratch the paint real quick.

I dont have anything against ZAino lovers... but I dont use it at all!!

I have been doing this for 10+ years and my business specifies in paint correction and protection. I have it down to an exact sciance how to correct paint to perfection. Most of my clients come from Concourse type shows or the enthusiast who loves how their car looks.

My top of the line service can take me as long s 30 hours and involves wet sanding and polishing to get the surface 100% reflective and level. i then apply some of the highest Carnauba content waxes available. I dont mean to boast but There is no one anywhere near where I live that comes close to what i do. This service costs around $1500-$5000

Once done I have a perfect flawless finish.

TIPS:- wash with soft sponges (Zymol) and/or microfiber wash mits
- make sure you clean them out before every wash.
- Synthetic Chamois are the best way to dry
- follow the Cham with Micro Waffel weave towels and Micro-fiber towels. NOTHING ELSE SHOULD TOUCH YOUR PAINT.
- If you dry or wipe with cotten towels you will notice spider webs and swirl marks almost after 1 wash!!
- INvest in a water softener
- Small electric blowers are a great way to get the water out of cracks, grooves and behind mirrors.
- Interior: try using a soft brush on the end of your vacuum to suck dust off the dash and seats.
- Chamois is the best thing to wipe down the interior with. DONT USE ARMORALL OR ANY OTHER PARTS STORE DRESSING. THEY ARE CRAP AND CONTAIN OILS FOR SHINE NOT PROTECTION.
If anyone has ever seen that yellow film on the inside of their windshield, thats the oils from those dressing that have evaporated into the glass.!!

Companies I like:

TROPICARE!!
ZYMOL
SWISSOL
CRSSPOTTLESS (WATER SOFTENERS)
3M (COMPOUNDS)

and many many more....

I will be posting a Thread very soon with my total paint analysis and overall results in keeping this thing clean.

If anyone wants more info or advice im happy to help via PM.

being very busy I sometimes dont get on the PC very often so be patient

Hope this helps.

Cheers

Caerwyn

You think GMs paint is bad. Take a look at the garbage nissan puts on their cars and trucks. I sold my 07 Titan 9 months after buying because of paint issues.

Just a few pics of some examples of what I do.
http://www.g8board.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=665&d=1207680505
http://www.g8board.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=666&d=1207680520
http://www.g8board.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=667&d=1207680539
http://www.g8board.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=668&d=1207680609
http://www.g8board.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=669&d=1207680673

Just remember that the G8's interior is a "no-gloss" one. DO NOT use things like armor all as it will "ruin" the materials... so I'm told.

Good lord!!!!!!!! That is absolutely amazing.

Armor all is OK for the rubber weatherstrips and tires, but not plastics. The manual says to use detergent and water, not leather soaps on the leather. This has worked fine for my IBM GTO (blue leather interior) that still looks showroom new.

Haven't tried Zymol, but Black Magic is a good wax for me (see recent reviews).

The dash is a strange plastic surface with tiny holes in the texture, so anything that leaves any residue whatsoever should be avoided there.

Just remember that the G8's interior is a "no-gloss" one. DO NOT use things like armor all as it will "ruin" the materials... so I'm told.

I agree. I don't use anything in the interior other then a cloth dampened with water. Protectants, glass cleaners, treatments all seem to accelerate the creation of a film on the inner glass surfaces. I use nothing but water and newspaper to polish glass and it tends to stay clean and film free for a long time.

What do you suggest for Florida sun on a Liquid Red GT? concerned about oxidation!

Ausstar - That is amazing!

So, are you saying I should stop running my new baby through the Shell car wash? :)

In all seriousness, is there any harm in running through the touchless car wash when it's only 50 degrees here in Chicago? It's just too damn cold to sit outside and wash the car, but sometimes it just feels like it needs a quickie.

Aw, toughen up, drob8! 50 degrees is do-able. I use a wash bucket with slightly warm water, car soap (no detergents!) made by the manufacturer of the wax I'm using, a microfiber wash mitt, and a hose with trigger nozzle for a quick rinse of each panel section. Then dry with microfiber towel. The mitt and towel get tossed in the washer after each session to remove any grit.

I also agree with using newspaper to clean windows, except that I do use Windex on the inside and RainX on the outside of the windshield.

Keep the car out of the sun whenever possible, and wax frequently (monthly if you can). The clearcoat contains UV light blockers so oxidatation shouldn't be a problem if you keep it clean and waxed.

I know...I'm a wuss. There's only two things I really hate: The Cubs...and cold weather. ;) Time is also an issue. It takes 5 minutes to run the the touchless...it takes 30 for me to wash by hand, if not longer.

All great info!!!!

spot free water is a must IMHO!! It means you can limit the amount you contact the paint!

CLean water and lint free or MF towels are all you need for windows.

Do not put anything on the dash surfaces that contain oilly ingredients like Armorall etc... they just evaporate into the glass.

Quick washes are ok as long as you minimise the touch on the paint as much as possible!!

Its ok if you wash towels in the washer just dont dry them in the dryer!!! they will lint and pill and scratch your paint!!

QUICK TIP: #1 rule for motion on paint: Always work in cross hatched lines.... NOT CIRLCES!! Mr. Myagi got it so wrong!!:)

I bought Zaino for my red trans am, and the stuff holds up for weeks. The finish is amazing and holds up to rain and sun like nothing else.

For those of you who wash your car and want a completly streak free, rag free dry, use a leaf blower! I know it sounds silly or you make look silly blowing water off your car, but you never have to dry it by hand and risk putting swirl marks into the paint. I used it and it works great. I then use a buffing pad and do the whole car with Zaino, then wipe off the residue with a micro fiber towel. Just some tips if you dont want to put swirl marks into your car.

Oh yea, when you do the hood of your car, work top to bottom, vertically. And on the sides, you should do the same, bottom to top. Don't go side to side. Something with the way the paint is applied and the way the reflection is givin. Never go left to right, just up and down. Doing it for a long time and cars look amazing

What about the Mr. Clean car wash system with automatic drying?

I heard that thing sucks and you need to keep buying filters and it leaves weird spots on your car. I have heard lots of negatives about it.

Aw, toughen up, drob8! 50 degrees is do-able. I use a wash bucket with slightly warm water, car soap (no detergents!) made by the manufacturer of the wax I'm using, a microfiber wash mitt, and a hose with trigger nozzle for a quick rinse of each panel section. Then dry with microfiber towel. The mitt and towel get tossed in the washer after each session to remove any grit.

I also agree with using newspaper to clean windows, except that I do use Windex on the inside and RainX on the outside of the windshield.

Keep the car out of the sun whenever possible, and wax frequently (monthly if you can). The clearcoat contains UV light blockers so oxidatation shouldn't be a problem if you keep it clean and waxed.

Good advice. I'd also recommend the 2 bucket method if the car is really dirty:

Prepare 2 car wash buckets with each one having a dedicated mit. Use one bucket from the roof down to about the middle of the car. Use the second mit and bucket for the lower portion only. (ie wheels, sill plates, wheel openings, lower portion of front and rear bumper).

This helps minimize any swirl marks which owners of dark cars are constantly battling.

I also recommend a foam shooter. By foaming the car it helps lift the dirt off. They're also fun to use!!

Not everyone loves, them but I like to dry my car with a silicone water blade. I can get the car 90% dry and them use a microfiber towel for the rest. The key is to ensure the car is totally clean before using the water blade.

I heard that thing sucks and you need to keep buying filters and it leaves weird spots on your car. I have heard lots of negatives about it.

I have used Mr. Clean on my old Grand Prix and the product really worked (for the most part). The car would get completely dry without streaks or spots. It's nice to be able to dry your car without having to touch it. Rather, you simply spray the drying agent on the car and it goes to work in a few minutes.
Sometimes when the weather is cool, though, the drying agent doesn't work completely, such as on the lower end of the car. You are then forced to dry the car yourself.

Just wondering if anyone else has used the Mr. Clean system and what their thoughts are...

HEy thanks thats sum great advice and info AUstar
i do agree about the oil based products ..but you can get some great water based products by Meguiers that the avg person can afford.
Im no where near as experinced as AUstar here.but deatailing cars was my first job in highschool...ive done hundreds of cars...(maybe i duno lol had fun learning how to drive exotic cars when i was 16)
some other misc tips / tools i used - instead of throwing away old tooth brushes .keep one for your interior and one for your exterior..there cheap to use to get dirt out of vents and behind our wheels and in small spaces..good for engine detailing too cause of all the small nooks and enclaves
q-tips..also good for dusting
pack of matches..- end of match stick good for using as a "brush" with touch up paint for road dings...( ive order my factory touch up already)
bag o rags - most stores have a bag of shop rags...for like 3 bucks ...you never can have too many CLEAN shop rags
bugs on plate?? GUMOUT..gets em out lol
small electric blower not necessary for a man /gal on a budget ...drive down your street a few blocks..get er up to 60 mph..thats some blow power right there.than repark in dry area....helps to get protectant coating on ALL of the tires too when you reapply after moving your car....
hope some of my tips are helpful

Big Tropi-Care user here. Stuff is very easy to use and the results speak for themselves. Now if only I could get a nice day while being off to apply it to the car!!!

I'll probably be user some of the Aerospace products for the interior. It has a low shine and protects.

-Brian

HEy thanks thats sum great advice and info AUstar
i do agree about the oil based products ..but you can get some great water based products by Meguiers that the avg person can afford.
Im no where near as experinced as AUstar here.but deatailing cars was my first job in highschool...ive done hundreds of cars...(maybe i duno lol had fun learning how to drive exotic cars when i was 16)
some other misc tips / tools i used - instead of throwing away old tooth brushes .keep one for your interior and one for your exterior..there cheap to use to get dirt out of vents and behind our wheels and in small spaces..good for engine detailing too cause of all the small nooks and enclaves
q-tips..also good for dusting
pack of matches..- end of match stick good for using as a "brush" with touch up paint for road dings...( ive order my factory touch up already)
bag o rags - most stores have a bag of shop rags...for like 3 bucks ...you never can have too many CLEAN shop rags
bugs on plate?? GUMOUT..gets em out lol
small electric blower not necessary for a man /gal on a budget ...drive down your street a few blocks..get er up to 60 mph..thats some blow power right there.than repark in dry area....helps to get protectant coating on ALL of the tires too when you reapply after moving your car....
hope some of my tips are helpful


nice advice mate! Thats how I started too... just a green little teen who loves cars.:)

Couple of things:

1. A leaf blower will work (as per the post reccomending it) BUT... that uses gas and has the same result as a Compressor! It releases small amounts of oil with the air it blows!! You do not want any oil on your paint or in the cracks and jams etc... over time they ruin the paint. Ive seen it. Not pretty! Thats why I suggested an ELECTRIC BLOWER in my first post. Look on autogeek and griot's garage and you'll see small hand held elec blowers that are perfect.

2. The best way to get rid of bugs is to use a Bio degradable non-caustic Citrus cleaner that has NO detergents in it and acts as a loosener! use in spray bottle and spray on the area before you rinse and then soap. Again, it minimises the amount of pressure you put on the paint. But after you have applied anough wax and or sealent, you should only have to rinse them off each wash. If you are using good products:)

3. Silicone baldes are ok.... I like foam blades better, they're a little safer! Griot's has the best one IMHO. If anything gets in between the blade and paint you will scratch so be careful.

just use spot free water and you wont even have to dry other than light polish at the end.

Cheers

Yes, I only use an electric leaf blower. I do not own/would want one that uses oil.

What do you suggest for Florida sun on a Liquid Red GT? concerned about oxidation! like florida ,alabama gets very hot too.I used final detail liquid wax from Qvc on my G6GT fushion orange for 2 years ,Easy to use takes no time .my g6gt looked as good as new when i traded for my G 8 GT.A 64oz bottle cost $19.99plus tax and shipping ,and last a very long time.Try it!!!!!

...For those of you who wash your car and want a completly streak free, rag free dry, use a leaf blower! I know it sounds silly or you make look silly blowing water off your car, but you never have to dry it by hand and risk putting swirl marks into the paint. I used it and it works great. ...

I used to just hop in and drive about 70 mph, dries great.

Just a few pics of some examples of what I do.
http://www.g8board.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=665&d=1207680505
http://www.g8board.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=666&d=1207680520


very nice:popcorn2: I wish I had your skills, and checkbook :gr_jest:

I've been reading posts on here for weeks and finally decided to join. My dealer ordered my Panther Black G8GT on the first possible day (Jan 31) and it STILL hasn't arrived. I opted out of their 888 since it's Red and I didn't want red. Anyway, I'm not an enthusiast but am very excited about my G8 and would really want to keep it looking nice. For those Zaino fans, I never heard of it but it seems to be fairly simple. Are you referring to the "Ultimate Protection Show Car Kit" and simply following the instructions? Or are you talking about specific products (and what would those be)?

Thanks,
JG

I would have to agree with your cleaning technique i have been through many forums where people recommend Shining monkey to meguiars NXT to Klasse to Prima.

Needless to say everyone has a favorite soft drink and everyone loves to claim it as the all time best.

My personal preference would be this:

Detailers who prepare show cars will often layer a carnauba wax on top of a synthetic wax. The synthetic wax acts as a gloss layer, while the carnauba wax adds depth and a wet-looking appearance.

One combination that works well is an initial coating of KlasseAll-In-One followed by one or more coats of P21S. Because of its superior coating capabilities, I find that multiple coats of the Ultima Paint Guard Plus product creates a dazzling final finish. When layering products for show, apply and buff the first coat of wax as you would normally, and allow it to cure for 12 to 24 hours before applying a second coat. Note that the first coat of wax must have time to cure. If the wax does not cure (harden), the second coat will not improve your car's appearance or protection. With properly applied coats of wax, you will see a noticeable improvement in depth, richness of color and gloss.
Taken from autopia


Personal trial will be:

First bucket wash with Zymol Z505 Auto Wash or P21S Bodywork Shampoo
2nd bucket wash with Meguiar's G-12664 NXT Generation Car Wash
Throw a splash of KlasseAll-In-One
Finally Apply a coat of P21S Carnauba Wax or Meguiars NXT Tech Wax 2.0

(Amazon - Meguiar's NXT Wash & Wax Kit)

Total cost of around 50 bucks

I know it sounds silly to wash a car 2x but you did just invested 30k for this car why not keep it looking good.









I used turtewax soap to clean it with. Then used Klasse all-in-one protectant. I plan on going back over it this coming weekend with P21S 100% Carnauba wax. I went back over the car after applying the klasse with my california duster. It worked GREAT! I would never use it on a dirty car but using after it's been washed and after the protectant or a wax it was perfect.

I am very interested on how people are cleaning the inside of this car. I am not real happy with the surface on the passenger side. It collects everything in it and seems nearly impossible to clean. Also, interested in what people are using to clean and protect the seats. Not sure if a leather conditioner is going to be safe on them since they don't really feel like leather to me.

As long as the factory finish is in great shape just use Zaino All In One. It's pretty well respected and easy to use.

If you get swirl mark or other defects over time then you often have to choose from a broader array of products and techniques.

If you really want to get into detailing then go here:
http://www.autopia.org/

i do not recommend driving your car to dry it off. I had tried that before and simply driving around the block I had dirt, road crap on my back bumper already. I would rather just use a leaf blower and then go to town with Zaino

Another question for you Zaino users. Z-AIO looks like a great product to have and I'm looking into ordering some.

I do have a few questions though:
What do you guys actually wash the car with?
Is it necessary to use the enhancer, sealant, etc?
What's the best product to use as an applicator and buffer?

I don't have a lot of experience with car cleaning products, I've simply used Turtlewax car soap and Turtlewax wax. But once I get my G8, I plan to treat it a lot better so I'm trying to figure out an easy way to maintain the exterior and your suggestions are appreciated.

Thanks!

Another question for you Zaino users. Z-AIO looks like a great product to have and I'm looking into ordering some.

I do have a few questions though:
What do you guys actually wash the car with?
Is it necessary to use the enhancer, sealant, etc?
What's the best product to use as an applicator and buffer?

I don't have a lot of experience with car cleaning products, I've simply used Turtlewax car soap and Turtlewax wax. But once I get my G8, I plan to treat it a lot better so I'm trying to figure out an easy way to maintain the exterior and your suggestions are appreciated.

Thanks!

Wash with Zaino Z7
You don't have to use anything else if you don't want to, but if you want the look, you do the work! You might consider their new product, ZCS, as the label says, just apply and let it dry.
Buy Zaino product in $25 amounts and they send you applicators. To buff the dry resultant, use a 100% cotton towel.

For best results go to their web site and read up!:angel:

Another question for you Zaino users. Z-AIO looks like a great product to have and I'm looking into ordering some.

I do have a few questions though:
What do you guys actually wash the car with?
Is it necessary to use the enhancer, sealant, etc?
What's the best product to use as an applicator and buffer?


Thanks!

1. I foam on Duragloss 901 car wash concentrate and use microfiber or wool wash mitts. (the entire Duragloss product lineup is well respected and priced right. Carquest stores usually stock the Duragloss lineup.)
2. ZAIO doesn't require anything else but a top coat of wax will add a little depth. (I previously used Klasse AIO + Poorboy's EX which also worked well on black).
3. I use a foam applicator and microfiber towels from Costco. Make sure your towels don't scratch - not all microfiber towels are the same quality.

I only use a buffer for problem areas. In those situations I use a Porter Cable DA and Sonas pads. Don't even think about using a high speed rotary buffer unless you're an experienced detailer.

There are more then 1 ways to skin a cat so pick the products that work for you. You can also get good results using regular store bought products.

You need to decide if you want a show car finish or if a great finish w/protection is adequate. In any event prep. is the most important thing. Go the the university section at autopia and read away.

First, let me say that Ausstar is a rockstar. Thanks for all the great info, and thanks to everyone else.

I don't know about you all, but the first time I washed this car, the first thing I thought about was how the heck I was going to keep that honeycomb plastic in the grill, the scoop, and the tiny, tiny stuff in the hood scoops clean come summer time. Oh, it's cool now in the early spring, but living in the midwest, summer brings on some nasty highway bugs.

I'm dreading that. Anyone else think about that, or have a good solution?

I only use a buffer for problem areas. In those situations I use a Porter Cable DA and Sonas pads. Don't even think about using a high speed rotary buffer unless you're an experienced detailer.

There are more then 1 ways to skin a cat so pick the products that work for you. You can also get good results using regular store bought products.

You need to decide if you want a show car finish or if a great finish w/protection is adequate. In any event prep. is the most important thing. Go the the university section at autopia and read away.

Store bouoght products will never give the same results as pro lines from 3M, tropicare, Meg's Wolfgang, Pinnacle etc.... They just arent designed to go all the way.

You can not correct real rpoblem areas with a DA. But thats great advice and a great investment for newbies. Tropicare has a range of great DA kits that will give you a chance to try polishing paint in a safe way. I only use a rotary but I've been doing this for ever and it took me years to get the results from those pics.

Great frinishes need great waxes.... no offense to the Z but they dont offer real depth in refelction. they give great 'SHINE' though.

Pinnacles Souveran, TC Paste wax, and all the Zymols and Swissvaxes are my only choices for carnauba's.
4 Coats for the high paying customers and the car almost dissapears... it refelcts everything!! App process is very important.

Has anyone used any products from griotsgarage? I see they use there stuff on cars worth well over 100,000 and I am just curious if you are paying for the name of the quaility? I haven't used the waxes, but I have used the leather treatments and other things and they all work great, just curious if anything one else has?

First, let me say that Ausstar is a rockstar. Thanks for all the great info, and thanks to everyone else.

I don't know about you all, but the first time I washed this car, the first thing I thought about was how the heck I was going to keep that honeycomb plastic in the grill, the scoop, and the tiny, tiny stuff in the hood scoops clean come summer time. Oh, it's cool now in the early spring, but living in the midwest, summer brings on some nasty highway bugs.

I'm dreading that. Anyone else think about that, or have a good solution?

Use a old soft brush tooth brush to get out the little bugs in the small mesh spaces and inbetween your interior vents.
i keep a couple of old brushes for exterior and a couple for interior dusting....
G8JOE

First, let me say that Ausstar is a rockstar. Thanks for all the great info, and thanks to everyone else.

I don't know about you all, but the first time I washed this car, the first thing I thought about was how the heck I was going to keep that honeycomb plastic in the grill, the scoop, and the tiny, tiny stuff in the hood scoops clean come summer time. Oh, it's cool now in the early spring, but living in the midwest, summer brings on some nasty highway bugs.

I'm dreading that. Anyone else think about that, or have a good solution?

Thanks mate.!! Appreciate that.

The best way to keep these areas clean is to use crystal clean reverse Osmosis water. That way you wont get spots in there and all you'll need to do is wash and use an electric blower to blow the water out of it! I use a mist gloss dressing to keep it looking balck and new. Aply once dry.
For major front end splatter I use a bio-degradable non caustic Citrus-jel cleaner. P21S makes the best one but there are plenty of others with similar ingredients for less $$!
http://www.autogeek.net/p2totautwas.html

water purifiers: http://crspotless.com/index.php?tpl=

Quick word on car wash soaps:
You can extend the life of your well layered carnauba wax by using a soap that is either of pure natural ingredients or/and has some wax in it!

Depending on the ingredients, water will do different things on your paint after you soap. A good soap will help with whats called Hydrophobia... This is where the water will pitch and throw off the paint!! Hope this makes sense. Some cheaper soaps will cause water to sit and settle on your paint causing potential spotting. The good soaps will actually cause the water to roll and spread out off the paint, leaving minimal water to dry. This is Hydrophobia!
Remember: you want as little contact on the paint as possible.

Happy to give any other suggestions.

This is a fun industry to get into. So much more to it than most think.

Cheers

C

I would say Optimumcarcare.com

Optimum products are very good and they have Optiseal which is a spray and rub in and walk away product.

highly recomended.

i tell ya i tryed zaino dont like it. use mothers hands down i love it