I got her back yesterday. I do not think I have ever received a complete full 2 pages of a work order for any service I have ever had done to my cars in my life.

#1) TPMS recall GM campaign 09101. Done.

#2) Pull to the right. Mechanic agreed the car did, in fact, pull to the right and that the steering wheel being "off center" was not the problem. Complete front end alignment and steering wheel back "on center". Done.

#3) Front end vibration (and visible on steering wheel) over 35mph. Left Rear tire flat spotted and defective and all four tires found to be out of balance. Tire replaced and all tires computer balanced. Done.

#4) Rail rust. Clay bar entire car from top to bottom. Vehicle ordered to be inside at all times and away from welding area(s). Done.

#5) Switch blade key fob came apart while in hand of Service Advisor. Replaced with new one and reprogrammed. Done.

#6) Rear windows vibrated and squeaked at high pitch going down. Black rubber moldings on window sides were folded under in certain places. Done.

#7) Complete wash, wax, clean interior and detail. Done.

Total Cost: $0.00

The bug/rock deflector and splash guards were installed. :) If the deflector doesn't keep the hood from chipping I guess I will stop driving. LOL The amount of construction going on here and how long it takes the construction crews to get the jobs done is laughable, but until they get it done there is debris kicked up and tracked everywhere.

Funny thing about the clay bar job. When the technician was just about done my salesman happened to show up. He looked at it and then told him to do it all over again as he pointed out spots that were missed. So the car was clay barred twice. After that, while the car was on the lift, my Service Advisor happened to show up and found rail dust in the wheel wells. Of course, no one would see it when the car is on the ground, so guess what?? The wheel wells and all areas close by on the exterior was clay barred a third time.

I have been advised to test the second key fob to make sure the replaced new reprogrammed one has not zapped it. If it did, they will fix and reprogram the second one, again, no charge.

They want to know immediately how the car looks after we have rain or a night that produces a heavy dew. An over night rain brought out the rail dust initially that multiplied as time went on.

I will have to verify if my G8's production date (Feb 2009) included (or not) Recall Campaign 09046. My RO lists the 09101 for the TPMS, but 09046 is not listed to make corrections to the brake pedal position and tail light concerns. If anyone knows this please let me know.

We all agreed that on any future dealer swap purchases my dealer will never do business with the "other dealer". It was evident they did not even look at it when they received it from the plant in March 2009.

Finally, I feel I need to take her out on the road even if it is to nowhere. I think she needs to run, and I also need to adjust my habit of steering a bit to the left to keep her straight for the first week before I make a conclusion on anything. I have to make sure I do not feel the vibration any longer as opposed to it still being engraved in my head...make sense?? I need to reprogram. LOL I will say this...the steering is a lot more sensitive now that work has been done on it...which is the way I like it.

So far, so good, and I now look forward to my own road test. :)

Have a great weekend all.

Wow, what a list! At least they got you taken care of, others are not as lucky!

wow they really took care of you

The old key will need to be reprogrammed. The procedure is in the owner's manual. It's way easier than it looks. And it works just fine if the two key halves are already snapped together, despite what the manual says.

Which dealer?

The old key will need to be reprogrammed. The procedure is in the owner's manual. It's way easier than it looks. And it works just fine if the two key halves are already snapped together, despite what the manual says.

2nd original key fob with the standard non-switch blade key works fine....thank goodness, OR, is there something I should know and not overlook? Should I bring it back to have it reprogrammed anyway?

I can tell in the VIS where the car was traded from, if they wont telly you.

2nd original key fob with the standard non-switch blade key works fine....thank goodness, OR, is there something I should know and not overlook? Should I bring it back to have it reprogrammed anyway?
If it works, then you are good to go. Most newer cars have the option to just add a remote vs. reprogramming all key fobs. It saves a lot of hassle.

Which dealer?

The car was located at a dealer in Charleston, SC and my dealer here did an an inventory swap with them. I doubt they will do a swap with them again.

2nd original key fob with the standard non-switch blade key works fine....thank goodness, OR, is there something I should know and not overlook? Should I bring it back to have it reprogrammed anyway?

If it works then leave it alone.

FYI- this sound like the same issue...

http://www.g8forumz.com/showthread.php?t=2414

FYI- this sound like the same issue...

http://www.g8forumz.com/showthread.php?t=2414

It turns out that without reading this thread with the provided link, she is going back on Thursday for a vibration in the steering wheel. With the information in the provided link, I am going to print it off and bring it with me including all posts.

The top thread in the provided link explains exactly what I have been experiencing, but since day of delivery and with all the warranty work that was done just shy of 2 weeks ago it was difficult to diagnose everything. Since I have had her back the only thing that is constant and remains is the vibration in the steering wheel. The car isn't shaking, and the dashboard isn't shaking, nor is the entire steering column housing; it is only in the steering wheel. It slightly vibrates to the left and right (which is visible if I let go of the wheel) and it only begins after 45mph. I can make it go away if I slow down, but it only returns once I resume interstate speed. If I don't let go of the wheel the the lower half of my arms from the elbow to shoulder shake "in beat" with the steering wheel. The compromise is I stay off the interstate which is no way to drive. While the vibration is present the pull to the right is worse than it was before. No vibration, and everything is fine.

I cannot see it would (now) be the tires being out of balance since they were all computer balanced less than 2 weeks ago. Since I've had it back I have been thinking tie rod, or toe-in, or even, perhaps, I am just not driving it enough (10 miles each way to work) or, just like tires on a NASCAR race car at the race track, the tire pressures have to build up.

The provided link is very informative. I hope this issue, now with the others taken care of, will be fixed. On another note, I think I found another issue. When I opened the driver's door this morning (as it rained over night), the interior (painted) door panel bottom was wet and rubber seal along the bottom was also wet. I opened the other door and it was bone dry. So, this can be added to the list.

Just say a prayer. I have eyed this car since it has been in production. I can be patient, but how much is too much?