At 1062 miles put a Napa Gold filter 7060 and 9 quarts of Mobil 1 full synthetic 5w-30. The oil from the factory was dirty but no debris. :) The factory oil filter was a mother :cursin: ! What did they install that with an air tool? :madsign3:
Now, the manual says 8.8 quarts but it took 9 quarts even (including soaking the filter) and the oil level is a hair under full. Yes I ran it till warm. Besides the filter, it was pleasant!

Off topic question: I noticed my first paint chip on the drivers door:cry:, very bottom so you can't see it (the lip of the door). Should I touch that up? With what color so that it will match this red? If I don't will it flake off further? Thanks, Morgen.

9 qts of Synthetic....... FAWK!

:sick: It's a pig!

I will definitely be using the oil life monitoring system in this car ;)

At 1062 miles put a Napa Gold filter 7060 and 9 quarts of Mobil 1 full synthetic 5w-30. The oil from the factory was dirty but no debris. :) The factory oil filter was a mother :cursin: ! What did they install that with an air tool? :madsign3:
Now, the manual says 8.8 quarts but it took 9 quarts even (including soaking the filter) and the oil level is a hair under full. Yes I ran it till warm. Besides the filter, it was pleasant!

Off topic question: I noticed my first paint chip on the drivers door:cry:, very bottom so you can't see it (the lip of the door). Should I touch that up? With what color so that it will match this red? If I don't will it flake off further? Thanks, Morgen.

If you have Liquid Red, I picked up touch-up at the Dealer. The color discription on the label reads "Torrid Red". Imagine that. Touch it up.

Hey, 888GT#31 - How did you get under the car? Do you have access to a lift?

Holy crap, and I thought the GTO was bad with 6.6qts!! Those are diesel numbers there!

Does the G8 have a skidplate that needs to be moved first like the GTO?

Holy crap, and I thought the GTO was bad with 6.6qts!! Those are diesel numbers there!

Does the G8 have a skidplate that needs to be moved first like the GTO?

no, all is clear once under the car. filter and drain bolt are close together. and yes, the oil filter is on VERY tight. I used rhino ramps to get under mine.

Hey, 888GT#31 - How did you get under the car? Do you have access to a lift?

I jacked it up with a floor jack. Not where it says to, but on the :quoties:frame:quoties: rails (I'll try to take a pic). I just did the drivers side and to completely empty the oil I lowered the car back down and waited for the stream to turn into drops of oil. Lifted it back up and finished. Oh yeah, if you do this make sure you set the parking brake. Once the car is empty, new filter on, and drain plug in make sure you take the brake off and move the car (with engine off) in nuetral. If you don't it will stay arched up and get a false dipstick reading.

Thanks for the recommendations, I'm calling the dealer now.

Holy crap, and I thought the GTO was bad with 6.6qts!! Those are diesel numbers there!

Does the G8 have a skidplate that needs to be moved first like the GTO?

No, but it sure is pretty under there :D

Just called the dealer and they have one tube. They called it "RED HOT" (they used the last 9 digits of my VIN). Picking it up tomorrow. Its about $11.

damn, why does this car take so much oil? My LS7 never used that much oil I believe

On another topic, why did you choose a Napa Gold filter? I would rather have bought a Mobil 1 syn filter for the money. The biggest pain with them in finding them. The best place to find them is at autozones

damn, why does this car take so much oil? My LS7 never used that much oil I believe

On another topic, why did you choose a Napa Gold filter? I would rather have bought a Mobil 1 syn filter for the money. The biggest pain with them in finding them. The best place to find them is at autozones

The next one will be a Mobil 1 filter. For one I didn't know where they were and second I was getting Pinks All Out coupons from napa. :D So I just got what they had there. :p Now I know where the Mobil 1's are now, thanks.

Here is where the factory says is a good jacking point, but personally I won't do it on a floor jack. Perhaps a lift.
http://home.comcast.net/~z28guy96/FLATTIREJACKINGPOINT.JPG

Here is where I lifted mine at. I think this is a strongest part of the unibody. :eyetwitch: It is a unibody right?
http://home.comcast.net/~z28guy96/FLOORJACKINGPOINT.JPG

Here is where the factory says is a good jacking point, but personally I won't do it on a floor jack. Perhaps a lift.
............
Here is where I lifted mine at. I think this is a strongest part of the unibody. :eyetwitch: It is a unibody right?
Yes, I think it is.

I'm wondering if using a 2X4 between the jack and that place you used as a jacking point would help distribute the load a bit.

Did you place jackstands at the "factory" jacking points while you were under there?

Yes, I think it is.

I'm wondering if using a 2X4 between the jack and that place you used as a jacking point would help distribute the load a bit.

Did you place jackstands at the "factory" jacking points while you were under there?

I too was thinking about the 2x4 but I think I could not fit it between the jack and the car. Not much room.

I used the floor jack for the all the weight of the vehicle and I placed a jack stand at the factory point on the driver side in case of an accident. Those factory spots are flimsy!

I am curious if anyone else has put a filtermag on the filter?(I put one on the stock filter at 150miles) I was hoping to see someone else cut the stock filter open. I will make it a point to do that this weekend when i change the oil and see what I find and take some pictures to post for everyone.

48548 I want one of those! Where did you get yours from? I look forward to your pics.

My caddy takes 10 quarts of oil, GM knows it will burn 2 quarts between oil changes.

Thanks for the update. It sounds like the G8 is an easy "one paper towel" vehicle when it comes to oil changes. (similar to my previous GP GXP).

My Supra is a "one entire paper towel roll" oil change from hell vehicle!!

I'm at about 600 miles and will change oil this weekend but I think I'll stick with Dino and then go with M1 at about 2000-3000 and then go with the DIC from then on.

I'm curious if L76 consumes much oil. Most GM V-8's do use some oil between changes.

Filtermag here is a link

http://www.filtermag.com/gallery.php?PHPSESSID=88d224af873027a2d3cad724c6e9 b014

Also the one I got I got from summit racing and the part number was ra300

It was red and had the 300 psi magnetic force and hard to pull on the kn filter I tested it on before I put it on the delco filter. Now the question is can I get the filter off with out taking the magnet off so I can leave it on until I cut the filter and see how much crap is on it? Also I got the summit version of the cutter to save some cash. I don't think the 90psi version would hold as well, but they also make these for rear ends and tranmissions. In the old days, I would just take hd magnets out of server hard drives and stick them to the outsite as they were super strong, but wanted something cleaner and can put in one spot. I did epoxy some the of the hd magnets to bm deep aluminum pan I had on a 4l60e and the ta performance aluminum cover on my z71, really helped with the metal pieces.

Sorry bad link try this

http://www.filtermag.com/gallery.php

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SUM%2D900510&N=700+%2D112551+115&autoview=sku

I'm curious if L76 consumes much oil. Most GM V-8's do use some oil between changes.[/QUOTE]

New here but viewing for a while as I'm looking at the G8. I'm interested in the responses to this as I've got an '02 Tahoe w/5.3 at 91K mi & Never drops below full between changes. I realize this is a different engine, but still a GM V8.

Here is where the factory says is a good jacking point, but personally I won't do it on a floor jack. Perhaps a lift.
http://home.comcast.net/~z28guy96/FLATTIREJACKINGPOINT.JPG

Here is where I lifted mine at. I think this is a strongest part of the unibody. :eyetwitch: It is a unibody right?
http://home.comcast.net/~z28guy96/FLOORJACKINGPOINT.JPG

I was always taught by my family of mechanics (been in the auto service business since 1955) that the strongest lift point on the underside of a vehicle is at the weld / seam, right where you point out in the first picture. If you put it on a flat spot I was told it can buckle under the weight.

Yeah, there's a reason the manufacturer says to lift it from that point. I'm sure they know what they're talking about! :)

Anyone find the proper jack points (other than the pinch welds)? I'm guessing the Commodore guys must have a manual? The GTO had two great jack points, one just behind the skid plate, the other just past the rear end. You can jack the whole car with just two locations.

Anyone?

FYI, this is the GTO one... NOT THE G8 - just a reference to what I am looking for:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v329/jdantin/JackingUndercarriageHighlighted.jpg

appletonrc: That's pretty much the same spot I used for the front (pictured green). It didn't creak or dent, unlike the other place.

Mike C and Jsalbre: Have you used the factory spot with a floor jack or a lift? I worked at goodyear for 2 years and they crumple like soda cans! I don't care if that is normal but it looks like crap and the G8's plastic body kit is attached there. The only cars that I used to lift at those places are Hondas/Acuras, they have strong jacking points there that extend downwards. In goodyear's tech manuals it almost always has spots like appletonrc shows above. I'm sorry but the first jacking point I pictured is flimsy. By the way, the spot first pictured is for the emergency flat tire jack. We don't even have one!

Listen, I'm not trying to be a smart :censored: here. These are just my experiences. I don't know everything! :p If I'm being a jerk :rant:, I'm sorry. :angel:

damn, why does this car take so much oil? My LS7 never used that much oil I believe

On another topic, why did you choose a Napa Gold filter? I would rather have bought a Mobil 1 syn filter for the money. The biggest pain with them in finding them. The best place to find them is at autozones

Well the Napa Gold offer's better filtration and is a better filter than the Mobil 1. Next time just go with a WIX

It looks like I am the only way who won't get under a car while on a jack or jack stands. LOL I guess I am just way too cautious. I've seen a few jack stands give out on friends. Luckily they were on lifted trucks so it wasn't a big deal. Seeing it once was enough for me to go and buy some ramps for this car.

It looks like I am the only way who won't get under a car while on a jack or jack stands. LOL I guess I am just way too cautious. I've seen a few jack stands give out on friends. Luckily they were on lifted trucks so it wasn't a big deal. Seeing it once was enough for me to go and buy some ramps for this car.


I agree that ramps are ideal and it sounds like the G8 front end will clear a Rino ramp. However where is the oil pan drain plug? Will the car's angle on a Rino ramp result in a full drain of the pan? (it wouldn't on my GP GXP because the plug was towards the front of the pan.

What size ramps would someone need? Would a set up Blitz 11908 work? They say that they have a 17 degree incline? Just want to make sure they don't rub.

I got the ramps a little bit to high, but with a small board before the ramp, they work perfect and don't rub. Here are the pictures of the change, I didn't want to take the magnet off, but I had to because I couldn't get the wrench on, but the next filter being a k&n will have the nut to use next time so I don't have to take it off, but I did put it back on and moved the oil in it around to get the metal and then cut it open and drained with magnet on. Let me know if you have any questions. The oil was 834 miles, again I put the filter mag on at 150 miles.

Have you used the factory spot with a floor jack or a lift? I worked at goodyear for 2 years and they crumple like soda cans!
I test-fitted my new spare tire the other night. To jack the car up I used a scissor jack rescued from an old Subaru station wagon (old scissor jack, never been used!). The scissor jack lifting plate has the correct longitudinal cutout to allow the plate to fit around that pinch weld flange at the factory-recommended jacking point. It came right up with no damage to the jacking point and seemed very stable.

I can see how a floor jack or other jack without the proper lifting plate could damage that spot, though. I'd recommend that you guys buy a couple of scissor jacks. Pontiac wants $45 for the one that goes in the G8 V6 model, and I'll bet you can get 'em a lot cheaper at Northern Tools or Harbor Freight.

I changed oil over the weekend.

The good news is that my set of Rhino ramps worked great but they just barely clear the front of the car with no front end clearance to spare.

The bad news is that I failed my "one paper towel" goal. Once you remove the plug you better have the drain pan at least 1' away because that oil comes shooting out the hole under high pressure. (remember that it's the weight of 9 qts vs. 5 qts). My positioning was off as a result:banghead:

9 quarts? the LS2 in my trailblazer only takes 6. i may have to reconsider royal purple when i get this one. any idea if the GXP will be any different?

I changed over the oil at 2084.

Slapped on a K/N Oil filter and 9 quarts of Amsoil 5W-30
Man that was painful to the wallet (7.99 a quart)

That oil filter was almost the end of me. I swear hurcules is working in the holden plant.

The oil does shoot out fast and far so beware when you open that plug.

Anyone have pics of their ramps, and details on where you got them, or how much you paid?

Try this for the ramps I bought, 35.00 they are blitz 11908 ramps. I got them from checker auto, in phoenix.

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?MfrCode=BLI&MfrPartNumber=11908&CategoryCode=3400

A 9 qt oil change?! My '05 Corvette with basically the same 6.0 with 400hp only takes 6 qts. The 6.0 in my Suburban with 325hp also only takes 6 qts. Why so much oil for this one? Nothing that special about it other than the cylinder deactivation. If they took those 3 qts out and put a spare tire in the back, they'd make the weight distribution almost perfect 50/50. :dunno:

Maybe they expect it to leak or burn oil?

Changed my oil this past weekend too. I think that the reason companies are starting to go with larger sumps is the more oil they have in the vehicle, the lower they can keep the oil temp. And truly, oil temperature has just as much to do with engine life as regular changing.

The factory oil filter sure was on there. But that is what i find to usually be the case. I had to use the old screwdriver trick on mine.

Also, if I had to guess and if anyone else hasn't noticed this yet, judging by the oil drain plug, I would imagine all of the fasteners on the car being metric. Not a huge surprise since coming from Australia, but it just seems odd to have metric bolts on a GM.

Also, while I was under there, I noticed the cat to exhaust bolts were welded to the flange. Guess it will take a little more work than I thought to put on that catback..

Larger Sump will probably not make the oil run any cooler, it will only take LONGER for the oil to reach operating temp.

Larger Sump will probably not make the oil run any cooler, it will only take LONGER for the oil to reach operating temp.

I beg to differ. It's basic physics.

You know, I was tempted to get into the physics details here, but then I realized that it's 2 AM and I really don't feel like it! :) Someone else feel free though.

If you go by the DIC oil change intervals, I would suspect the change intervals would be a bit longer. I never bother with the computer, and I've never even seen it come up on my GTO except for the time I forgot to reset the computer after a change. It would stand to reason that double the oil volume would help keep the AFM hydraulic system cleaner if you go the distance on the computer for changes.

I never go by the DIC either on my GTP, or the Oil change light on my Century.

Most of the times the GTP gets changed when the DIC is between 60-80%, I dont even drive it too much, it spends a lot of time in the garage. Mobil 1 and AC Delco filter every time.

On the Buick (since the car wasnt taken care of too well by its original owners), it gets changed with Valvoline MaxLife every 2.5-3k miles and a AC Delco filter as well. Ive had the car since 2006 and have also used engine restore twice as well, seemed to help a little.

Dont care what anyone really says about how long oil CAN last its just a piece of mind for myself to change it frequently. Changing the oil is much cheaper than changing the motor.

If I drove 250-400 miles on the highway each day like some people do (driving to work), I would use a good synthetic and maybe change it every 5k-7k miles, which would end up being a once a month or so type oil change (assuming you make the 300-400 mile round trip drive to work 5 days a week).

Not a huge surprise since coming from Australia, but it just seems odd to have metric bolts on a GM.
Our 1997 Suburban was about half-and-half metric and standard. Even inside the engine bay there was a mix. It was a good excuse to acquire a full set of tools. :D

Call it old faithful once you remove the plug.

A 9 qt oil change?! Why so much oil for this one?

So they can tout longer drain intervals as a low maintainance selling point due to the lower additive depletion rate. It has nothing to do with temp.

Just FYI, i've called 3 dealerships to ask about the factory oil in the G8 GT and all 3 have said "synthetic." And when I pried further for the brand of synthetic, again all 3 dealers told me "Mobil 1". So, I'm gonna go ahead and believe them, which means i won't be changing my oil until the DIC says its time.

I guess you're still in that "I believe the dealer" stage. Whatever dealer employee told you that, is full of it. Feel comfortable running synthetic if you want, but the car was actually designed to run on standard, conventional 2008 spec oil. Any of the major brands have the premium spec you need in 5W30 weight premium motor oil. I think someone mentioned before, if the car was required to run synthetic, the owners manual and the oil fill cap would state that "synthetic required". Follow the owners manual, change it a bit premature if you like, but synthetic truly is overkill for most owners and the way they drive.

wow 50+ bucks for a synthetic oil change? forget that...i'll use motorcraft 5w30 synth blend for 2.49/qt...my 01 cobra called out 6 quarts in the manual, and it is commonly accepted practice to bump that up to 7 quarts for bearing protection, but damn, 9??

Well the Napa Gold offer's better filtration and is a better filter than the Mobil 1. Next time just go with a WIX


Aren't the Napa Gold filters manufactured by Wix? Those are the only two filters that I use.

price of gas + oil changes = sellin crack to kids and turning tricks on the corner for extra cash

Just changed the oil today @ 1000 miles. Drove it right up onto the Rhino ramps. It was a piece of cake. :)

The filter was no problem for me. I've got one of those filter sockets that fit on a ratchet. Infact the same filter socket works with my grand prix filter, so I didn't have to buy a new one. :)

Just an FYI. If you are planning to get a Wix filter from O'Rielly Auto Parts, they've got the wrong filter in the system. Hopefully they will have it corrected soon.

I was always taught by my family of mechanics (been in the auto service business since 1955) that the strongest lift point on the underside of a vehicle is at the weld / seam, right where you point out in the first picture. If you put it on a flat spot I was told it can buckle under the weight.

+1. Pinch weld is strong as hell.

My dealer said they have Mobile one and I also got 6 free oil changes too!

So no changing for me.

I will bring her in at 500 miles.

I'm curious if L76 consumes much oil. Most GM V-8's do use some oil between changes.

New here but viewing for a while as I'm looking at the G8. I'm interested in the responses to this as I've got an '02 Tahoe w/5.3 at 91K mi & Never drops below full between changes. I realize this is a different engine, but still a GM V8.[/quote]

My 04 GTO with the LS1 has 84k on it and has never had a drop of oil put in it between changes. AMSoil FTW.

I just got a common to make regarding using ramp or jack for changing oil in G8GT

I just did mine last week. I did it with jacking up the front of the car. as i laid under the car, i realized that G8 GT got big ass oil pan. and oil drain is located at center of driver side. so after i thought i drain all the oil out, I drop driver side to ground and about possible 1/2 quart oil came out. I think lift front or back will not drain all the oil. the best thing for those of us who do oil change in our own garage will be lift passanger side of car. therefore you still can get under and all the oil will come out.

Changed my oil at 1000 miles and will at every 3000 miles from now on. It might be overkill but old habbits die hard.

I suspect that the huge 9 qt hole has something to do with us Americans wanting fewer oil changes. My dealer said to follow GMs recs and said he thought the car would tell me to change the oil around 9000 miles. I never reset the oil light and StupidStar sent me an E-mail today that said it expects me to need an oil change at 9700miles..Well StupidStar, I have owned many cars, drive as hard as I can...Go thru many sets of tires and brakes but NEVER repaced an engine..I should have 3 oil changes and ready for number 4 by the time I hit 9700 miles

What oil did you use? Are there any recommendations? I'm at 1400mi on my GT and I'm still gonna change it every 3k. Old habits do die hard...

Reading this thread is cracking me up. Complaining about a 9 quart oil change, boo hoo. I love the fact that they've increased the oil capacity, I'm figuring that with turbo feed lines and an oil cooler it would run close to 11 quarts, which is damn near the capacity of a full race dry sump system.

A tidbit of info...

http://autos.yahoo.com/articles/autos_content_landing_pages/586/the-3000-mile-oil-change-myth/;_ylc=X3oDMTE0cnVqb3Q4BF9TAzI3MTYxNDkEc2VjA2ZwLXRv ZGF5BHNsawMzMDAwLW9pbA--

I agree with 4gasm's articel. I used to do the 3K mile change too but then I bought a BMW. After this I got it done when the car told me, every 15K miles. NEVER had a problem on either of my bimmers ('02 325i & '05 X5) I also talked to a tech guy for BMW and he said if Iwanted to keep the car after warranty to get it changed every 10K miles just to be on the safe side but he said every 15K would be fine. Now with my G8 i'll do the 1st at 3K and after that will be when the car tells me. Gotta love modern technology!!!!!!

It's GM's way of saying it only needs an oil change every 15,000 miles. I would never, ever go that long and now it is going to cost more every time I change my oil.

I also own a bimmer and follow the recommendation from the onboard oil monitor system. I will do the same with my G8 GT as well. No need to waste money on unnecessary oil changes. I wait until the car says "feed me".

Just changed the oil in the GXP after 1700 miles. I examined the oil by putting some in a glass jar and it was definitely darker than I expected. I had the same experience with the filter as others, it was TIGHT! I used Napa Gold filter and Mobil 1. I would have a hard time waiting 10,000 miles between oil changes. If I was worried about the cost of an oil change, I wouldn't have bought a car with an LS3 that I knew I was going to stand on ALOT and get under 15mpg.

I'm used to spending money on oil though, as I change the oil in my dry sump late model race motor every three weeks, and it takes 12 qts. The fact is I feel better when I know my motors have fresh oil, and I like changing oil. It helps that I have a hoist and I usually have a cold beer nearby during the process. :)

I have never loved a car, other than my racecars, more than this GXP. I gave my friend a ride today and seeing the look on his face when I was WOT from 0-80mph was almost as fun as driving the car. I think LT headers, CAI and a tune is in my near future. Nothing like the sound of headers! With those mods it should put the GXP somewhere around 470 hp at the crank, about the same as the ACE motor in my late model. AWESOME!

Well the Napa Gold offer's better filtration and is a better filter than the Mobil 1. Next time just go with a WIX

Plus one, In all the tests I have read Nappa gold always rates in the top 2 or 3. Same with Wix. Nappa gold always easy to find Wix a little harder and more expensive but worth it as it is a better filter. Mobile 1 is average filter at best. BTW... Wix makes a lot of Nappa's filters.

I test-fitted my new spare tire the other night. To jack the car up I used a scissor jack rescued from an old Subaru station wagon (old scissor jack, never been used!). The scissor jack lifting plate has the correct longitudinal cutout to allow the plate to fit around that pinch weld flange at the factory-recommended jacking point. It came right up with no damage to the jacking point and seemed very stable.

I can see how a floor jack or other jack without the proper lifting plate could damage that spot, though. I'd recommend that you guys buy a couple of scissor jacks. Pontiac wants $45 for the one that goes in the G8 V6 model, and I'll bet you can get 'em a lot cheaper at Northern Tools or Harbor Freight.

FYI.... JC Whitney has the proper jack attachment for use with your exesting floor jack. About 20.00 shipped. If used with the proper attachment you will never have issue with the factory jack points!

Cant find the JC Whitney link but this one loos nice.

Side Lift Jack Pad:

http://www.protechproducts.net/jackpads.htm second one down.

Steel one:

http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=2061&itemType=PRODUCT

Feel comfortable running synthetic if you want, but the car was actually designed to run on standard, conventional 2008 spec oil. Any of the major brands have the premium spec you need in 5W30 weight premium motor oil. I think someone mentioned before, if the car was required to run synthetic, the owners manual and the oil fill cap would state that "synthetic required". Follow the owners manual, change it a bit premature if you like, but synthetic truly is overkill for most owners and the way they drive.
All vehicles by nature state that conventional oil is okay to use. That's not the argument though. Synthetic oil lasts longer, requires less change outs, increases hp & fuel economy, saves money & a little over looked benefit is environmental impact. Imagine how much less plastic quart bottles will be used or how much less waste oil as well.
Synthetic is by far the better choice on so many levels outside of vehicle performance & life.
If your lucky you can even buy your own synthetic at a very good price and take it to a service station that will only charge you the price to change it out. That's what I do. I pay $20 for 6 quarts of ENEOS synthetic oil & have a local station change it out for $15.

Filtermag here is a link

http://www.filtermag.com/gallery.php?PHPSESSID=88d224af873027a2d3cad724c6e9 b014

Also the one I got I got from summit racing and the part number was ra300
Thanks for the info on the FilterMag. I've seen similar ones that consist of a band of plastic with magnets slipped into sleeves molded into the surface. The device is wrapped around the filter and buckled into place. JC Whitney has a magnet that you drop into the filter *shudder*. Amazon has the FilterMags for 10% off.

I believe the extra oil capacity is for operation of the AFM system; that's the main difference from other GM V8s mentioned in this thread. I like it because it also provides extra oil to "dilute" the crap suspended in the oil. I buy 5-quart jugs of Valvoline Full Synthetic at WalMart for $21 and plan on changing once a year (regardless of oil monitor), keeping in mind I only put about 5,000 miles a year on the car. Even BMW says change at least once a year, regardless of mileage. Three 5-gallon jugs will cover one change my 08 Sierra and one in my 09 G8 GT (6 + 9 = 15) for about $68 plus filters.

Thanks for the update. It sounds like the G8 is an easy "one paper towel" vehicle when it comes to oil changes. (similar to my previous GP GXP).

My Supra is a "one entire paper towel roll" oil change from hell vehicle!!

I'm at about 600 miles and will change oil this weekend but I think I'll stick with Dino and then go with M1 at about 2000-3000 and then go with the DIC from then on.

I'm curious if L76 consumes much oil. Most GM V-8's do use some oil between changes.My car has had Mobil 1 Synthetic put in it at exactly 782 miles, replacing the Factory Dinosor Oil. Now I just had it changed at 7100 miles and my GT does not use any oil in between 6k miles plus on this past oil change. Gotta love these 6.0 Liter Engines....:wink2:

Just curious, my manual says it takes 8 quarts. I just changed mine today with some Amsoil 5w-30 and a M1-113 Mobil 1 filter. I put 8 quarts in and parked it on a flat surface and my dipstick shows it half way between low and full. So why would mine be any different?

Also, I reset the Oil monitor by turning the key to the on position and then depressing the gas pedal 3 times. Is that correct?

Just curious, my manual says it takes 8 quarts. I just changed mine today with some Amsoil 5w-30 and a M1-113 Mobil 1 filter. I put 8 quarts in and parked it on a flat surface and my dipstick shows it half way between low and full. So why would mine be any different?

Also, I reset the Oil monitor by turning the key to the on position and then depressing the gas pedal 3 times. Is that correct?You reset your Oil Monitoring System correctly, however your Owners Manual is like some other owners in here and it states 8 quarts of motor oil on a oil change, but it actually takes 9 with the filter. I have changed mine twice now since I bought it 4 months ago and it took the same quantity of 9 quarts. Hope this helps, as it actually calls for 8.8 quarts total. :wink2:

price of gas + oil changes = sellin crack to kids and turning tricks on the corner for extra cash

I just put it on my credit card. :)

It looks like I am the only way who won't get under a car while on a jack or jack stands. LOL

Do what i did and get a couple sets of 12 ton jack stands. If they drop, it stops about a foot and a half off the ground...seriously. The base of it stands 19in tall. They don't really cost all that much.