I installed a 200W after market amp and two 12" subs to the factory system, sounds great DEEP bass and the factory speaker provides all the highs. Sounds like a very expensive sound system.. Very easy install all the wiring in the trunk....

:worthless:

And details...

I know just installed the stuff after a long day at work, will post pics tomorrow. I used the wiring off of the factory amp to install the after market amp, I unplugged the factory and used my volt meter to find the trigger wire ( light blue wire next to the yellow wire with the red strip). used the battery hold down as my grounding point, hooked the wire adapter with the RCA jacks for the amp up to the blue and green wire with the black strip coming out of the factory amp plug. They are located right next to each other, connected the hot wire to the battery and BAM I got power. Took me about a hour to take the trunk liner out, mount the amp. Wire it and put everything back together. Freakin thing shakes my house it really kicks.

Once I get my G8 I think the only thing that will survive the transfer from my GP GTP to the G8 will be my 1kw amp and 1kw 12" Sub. Looks like the rest of the stock system should be good for me. :boink:

I agree, would like pics to make a judgment on how to hook this up.

details, details....

amp (brand, channel)?
subs?
box type?

thanks

Pics Pics Pics Pics Pics

details, details....

amp (brand, channel)?
subs?
box type?

thanks

Just a 2 channel Clarion mono amp 200 with a set of 12" Orion (misspelled..lol) 350W subs in a sub box I bought from the sound shop, I had the set up in my Trailblazer SS but the lease is up next month so I took it out.

I'm looking to connect my old subs as well. I assume you used a line out converter to get signal to your amp? If so, which cables should I be looking for the R/L +/- leads specifically? I'd rather splice into the speaker cables going into the amp (from the rear passenger door speakers I assume), rather than the speaker leads from the factory subs which have already been processed by the factory amp. I know you said something about the blue and green wire with black strip coming out of the amp plug...

Thanks for the info on the trigger wire (light blue) which is a big help. Anything to streamline the process for me would be greatly appreciated.

I'm looking to connect my old subs as well. I assume you used a line out converter to get signal to your amp? If so, which cables should I be looking for the R/L +/- leads specifically? I'd rather splice into the speaker cables going into the amp (from the rear passenger door speakers I assume), rather than the speaker leads from the factory subs which have already been processed by the factory amp. I know you said something about the blue and green wire with black strip coming out of the amp plug...

Thanks for the info on the trigger wire (light blue) which is a big help. Anything to streamline the process for me would be greatly appreciated.


I connected the line out converter to the blue and green wire with black strip coming out of the amp plug, those are the wire leading to the speaker so it does matter if you splice there or at the speaker in the door your still getting the same signal from the factory amp. The factory amp is not like the Bose amps in most GM cars where you have to hook up the line out converter at a certain spot., the best thing is everthing is right there on the left side of the trunk to wire a amp. I just twisted both pos and neg wires together on the converter and spliced both neg wires to the blue/blk and pos to the green/blk, those wires will go into the harness together and they are side by side on the factory amp plug.. Very easy install..

Excellent, thanks for the added info!

I connected the line out converter to the blue and green wire with black strip coming out of the amp plug, those are the wire leading to the speaker so it does matter if you splice there or at the speaker in the door your still getting the same signal from the factory amp. The factory amp is not like the Bose amps in most GM cars where you have to hook up the line out converter at a certain spot., the best thing is everthing is right there on the left side of the trunk to wire a amp. I just twisted both pos and neg wires together on the converter and spliced both neg wires to the blue/blk and pos to the green/blk, those wires will go into the harness together and they are side by side on the factory amp plug.. Very easy install..

So you spliced after the amp, before the speakers? That's going to make adjustments tricky if you ask me. Rule of thumb is splice before the factory amp, that way you get a clean signal that's not amplified. Also it will be much more clear splicing before the amp since the signal to noise ratio is less than 100% on the factory amp I presume. :gears:

I was crusing down the road today with all 4 windows down. I found that if I tried to turn the radio up to a good level it would either distort horribly, or if I turned up the DDL no bass. I've got to get my Amp and SUB in. I have a couple of questions, did you unhook the 2 8' subs? Also in my mazda I was able to tap into Line Level inputs that went to the BOSE amp from the head unit, does anyone know if this set up is the same way?

i was thinking buying a Kicker zx750.1, and on crutchfield website it had these details. Where would i get the remote turn on signal/wire and basically everything on the right side i have no clue as to what to do
Left Side of Amplifier:
+12V (power): gold-plated set screw terminal (accepts up to 2 gauge wire)
REM (remote turn-on): gold-plated set screw terminal (accepts up to 8 gauge wire) GND (ground): gold-plated screw set terminal (accepts up to 2 gauge wire)
Fuse: two 40-amp fuses
Right Side of Amplifier:
Speaker Outputs: gold-plated set screw terminals (accepts up to 8 gauge wire) High Level Input: Molex plug input for included harness
RCA Input: gold-plated RCA line input jacks
RCA Output: gold-plated RCA line input jacks
Remote: RJ14 jack for use with supplied Remote Bass Level Control