Attached is the wire guide for the AMP in the trunk. I'm going to try and hook up my old BassLink II powered sub and we'll see how it sounds.... I'm disappointed at the fact there is no Line level (pre-amp) I have no idea how the audio signal is getting to the amp but I'll do some more investigation. I'm going to hook the Basslink up to the line level inputs on the sub itself... The attachment came from my dealer...

Thanks for the help/map.

Just connect a line level converter to the L/R Rear Speaker leads (PINS 1,2 and 6,7) to get your signal for the Amp. This signal will be the full bandwidth, don't connect to the subwoofer speaker leads as you will receive a processed low-pass signal only.

For your remote wire, just wire tap into any of the speaker leads to get your amp to turn on when the radio fires up. Not the best solution, but sure beats breaking open the back of the radio.

Well, the Infinity Basslink II has speaker level inputs that don't require a line-level converter, as well as a circuit that picks up the signal from the high level inputs anyway, so no need to run a separate remote lead. :)

Lucky you! Wish I had it that easy.

Lucky you! Wish I had it that easy.


Not sure if you were talking to me there. I don't have the Basslink II. Jawilsn does. I was just saying that the Bsslink doesn't require those things. :)

Well it's a basslink II i took out of my old car... hooked it all up, it would turn on when supposed to, blue light all was great but no sound at all... My question is how many of the speakers do you have to connect to the line level inputs for it to work? It's currently in parts, my next idea is to buy a cheapo amp to make sure the speaker inside is still good.

Typically you would draw from one pair of left and right speakers for your line level inputs (for a subwoofer application). I just tapped into the rear passenger speaker +/- leads which for the left is Brown and Yellow/Red, and the wires next to those for the right channel, dark and light blue. Total of 4 wires spliced and going into your amp's high level inputs.

If you have an extra speaker lying around you could connect these wires to it to make sure you are getting proper signal since it is already amplified by the radio. This is what I did prior to having the diagram above to determine L/R signals.

This should do the trick if your equipment and wiring is properly functioning...Good luck!

Yes, any pair of left and right would work. If you wanted non-fading bass, you would connect left/right front and back, but in your situation where there is a specific sub output, that is not necessary.

The obvious question is...gains up on the unit as well as the remote unit if you are using it? Power and ground connections are good?

I need to go hook up the other set.. I only used one set of speaker wires the left one's.... Although I need to put the box back together :)

Just connect a line level converter to the L/R Rear Speaker leads (PINS 1,2 and 6,7) to get your signal for the Amp. This signal will be the full bandwidth, don't connect to the subwoofer speaker leads as you will receive a processed low-pass signal only.

For your remote wire, just wire tap into any of the speaker leads to get your amp to turn on when the radio fires up. Not the best solution, but sure beats breaking open the back of the radio.


Forgive my ignorance, but how are you going to get a amp to turn on remotely by hooking it up to a speaker wire, nearly all amps i know of need a 12V source to switch on the amp (Remote Wire).

Hooking it up to a speaker wire will do nothing to my knowledge.

In the diagram above the remote wire is either pin 4 or pin 11, in the Australia version of this audio unit the remote enable wire is a white wire from the head unit that goes to pin 8 on our amp in the boot, looks as if yours is slightly different, but will be pin 4 or 11 if that diagram above is correct.

Forgive my ignorance, but how are you going to get a amp to turn on remotely by hooking it up to a speaker wire, nearly all amps i know of need a 12V source to switch on the amp (Remote Wire).

Hooking it up to a speaker wire will do nothing to my knowledge.

In the diagram above the remote wire is either pin 4 or pin 11, in the Australia version of this audio unit the remote enable wire is a white wire from the head unit that goes to pin 8 on our amp in the boot, looks as if yours is slightly different, but will be pin 4 or 11 if that diagram above is correct.
the Infinity BassLink II senses when there is input from the line level and turns on. Then waits 10 mins after nothing detected to turn off.... although it's not working anymore because the amp must be fried.... I havn't seen any other amps that do this though.

the Infinity BassLink II senses when there is input from the line level and turns on. Then waits 10 mins after nothing detected to turn off.... although it's not working anymore because the amp must be fried.... I havn't seen any other amps that do this though.

I see it all makes sense now, i am not familiar with that amp, auto switch on now makes sense.

For amps that do not have and auto on/off which wire should be used for the remote turn on. Also if my amp has High Level Input: Molex plug input for included harness and RCA Input: gold-plated RCA line input jacks. Should the speaker wires be connected to one or both. The amp is the Kicker zx750.1

For amps that do not have and auto on/off which wire should be used for the remote turn on. Also if my amp has High Level Input: Molex plug input for included harness and RCA Input: gold-plated RCA line input jacks. Should the speaker wires be connected to one or both. The amp is the Kicker zx750.1

Pick one, use the line level in for your amp. use a different speaker + for the remote. To start, ground the amp first, put the fuse in last.

Pick one, use the line level in for your amp. use a different speaker + for the remote. To start, ground the amp first, put the fuse in last.

Thanks, so all i have to do is connect the left rear +/- to the rca line input and use any other + as the remote on signal.

I know this topic has been dead for a while, but I have a question about the connector. I've searched all over the place and I can't find a part number for it. It seems to me that either jawilsn covered over the part information when scanning it in or the dealer provided it to him that way.

Anyway, like I said, I'm just looking for a part number to find out who makes it and if I can get the mate for it. My plan is to buy a mate for the plug and basically use it as a wiring harness to run the wires where I need them for an aftermarket amp and possibly a line level convertor. The main reason I want it is because I'm trying to avoid having to cut wires and all that mess. I know it's easy to cut wires and splice them, but it's even easier to just plug and unplug something if I ever needed to down the road. So, does anyone out there have the information I'd need?

So I've done some more looking. I've been to Radio Shack and a couple other local electronic and car stereo places (huge waste of time) and still come up empty handed.

That being said, I went on to Crutchfield.com this morning and was just looking at all the different harness they had for installing aftermarket stereos and I've come across this. http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?showAll=N&g=103000&i=120707902&tp=736&avf=N

While it has an extra wire and plug, I have to wonder if it might actually work since everything we would need to wire up an aftermarket amp is on one side of the harness. I'm thinking with some slight modification to this harness, it might actually fit and you wouldn't have to cut and splice any wires.

Thoughts? Actual part number or other information? :)

Update: Spent almost all day looking for this stupid connector and I think I might have finally found it or something extremely close to it. Check out this PDF and go to page 3. I think it might be part number MG651965. I've emailed the company to find out if they make a mate for this plug and if so, I asked how I could get one.

http://www.ket.com/pdf_e/1/090-II.pdf

What I did was take a forked connector and cut off one of the fork ends. The other end fit perfectly into the plug connectors.

It's not pretty but it is unpluggable.

What I did was take a forked connector and cut off one of the fork ends. The other end fit perfectly into the plug connectors.

It's not pretty but it is unpluggable.

I had considered that, but I was afraid it would come loose. If not, then it might be an option. I really, REALLY don't want to start cutting wires. I mean, it's something that I could undo, but if I'm going to do something, I want to do it right, you know?

I know this is an older thread, but still want to say THANKS. It made my install today a lot easier.

Also, got to love the battery being in the truck.......never had to leave the truck.