In the spirit of racers everywhere, who, like me, have zero budget for mods, I'd like to introduce the $15 Intake Mod

http://www.tompierce.com/IMG_640_0101.jpg

This is the prototype as developed so far - there are a few items of interest for you

1. No rewiring necessary - the stock harness and connectors are used

2. You decide which Air Filter suits your purposes best - any 4" outlet diameter filter that fits will work (the filter you see is just for the prototype and pictures - it is about 1" too tall to clear the hood - but there are oval filters from K&N etc. that will work just fine but I do not have one in hand yet.

3. The blue hose is the vacuum connection - it's blue because it was the only color that I had laying around. If I can locate another source of engine vacuum then that hose can be replaced and the MAF will not have to be modified.

4. Throttle response with this intake should be amazing - the inertia of the column of air in the stock intake or even the aftermarket intakes is one factor in delaying the throttle response.

Of course, it is not perfect. There is no "Cold Air" or "Ram Air" effect (although with the ideal oval filter, at least some of the incoming air above the radiator could be captured).

But best of all, I am not charging anything for this mod. You heard me. The total for the parts (excluding the Air Filter) should be less than $20, and I will be posting the parts list, suppliers, and instructions to this forum.

Consider it a gift from one 'no budget' G8 gearhead to another.

But I do need some help in finding 1) the best oval or rectangular filter and 2) another source of engine vacuum if possible.

Give me some feedback :)

I've been waiting for someone to do this... LOL

i posted this on another thread (the OTR intake thread)...

i got the idea from some guy in AUS...

no one said anything about it so yea....

PS i dont a G8 yet but soon....




Regarding your cheap mod.... i think it will work as long as you build a shield to go around the filter...

ill draw something up in MS paint to give and idea of what i was thinking about doing....

i know its crappy but you get the idea.....

AND of course you need a tune... or else the AFR gunna be WAY OFF...

http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk145/69hemiklr/otrintake2.jpg

not bad but we are all going to want to know if it does any good. I was thinking of doing something similar to this. Good stuff :)

-Brian

Why don't you save $14.00 and just put a dirty sock on the damn thing!


RRM

You dont even want to know how screwed up your fueling is now ;)

SOcaliG8, that looks real familar to the intakes they put on the Impala SS's back in the day. Yea, I would be real interested in the A/F for sure.

SOcaliG8, that looks real familar to the intakes they put on the Impala SS's back in the day. Yea, I would be real interested in the A/F for sure.

Yup, aside from the nice shroud its missing... Tis why I have a G8 right now, to replace the loss of my B-body :)

Yep, my first new car was a 1996 Impala SS. First mods were ASM cold air and Flowmaster catback.

Your photoshop reminded me of a Raiss or whatever they were called.

<----------- Just sold my 96 Impala SS to buy a G8.

Regarding the intake mod... I've posted this before but haven't seen a response yet. For any intake mod, I'd want to see the readings from the MAF as Stock and then with the new Intake at WOT. In theory the MAF will read higher if you really have more air flowing across it. While this wouldn't necessarily address the question of messed up A/F ratios and the need for a tune when getting a new intake, it should say whether or not you were successful at getting more air into the engine.

<----------- Just sold my 96 Impala SS to buy a G8.

Regarding the intake mod... I've posted this before but haven't seen a response yet. For any intake mod, I'd want to see the readings from the MAF as Stock and then with the new Intake at WOT. In theory the MAF will read higher if you really have more air flowing across it. While this wouldn't necessarily address the question of messed up A/F ratios and the need for a tune when getting a new intake, it should say whether or not you were successful at getting more air into the engine.

IAT is also important.

Yup, aside from the nice shroud its missing... Tis why I have a G8 right now, to replace the loss of my B-body :)

I traded in one of my 94 SSs (the daily driver) on the G8. Great minds seem to think alike!

In theory the MAF will read higher if you really have more air flowing across it. While this wouldn't necessarily address the question of messed up A/F ratios and the need for a tune when getting a new intake, it should say whether or not you were successful at getting more air into the engine.

As long as we are getting theoretical here, why should the CFM of air that an engine flows at WOT change with an intake change? The cubic inches of the engine didn't change and WOT is the same RPM with either intake (an assumption).

And another question - won't the computer learn the new A/F ratios using the O2 sensors and make the appropriate ratio adjustments?

Tom (still trying to find another engine vacuum connection - if I don't I'll have to take a drill to the MAF) Pierce

As long as we are getting theoretical here, why should the CFM of air that an engine flows at WOT change with an intake change? The cubic inches of the engine didn't change and WOT is the same RPM with either intake (an assumption).

Because, even though the displacement doesn't change, an NA engine is always drawing a vacuum. Therefor, the less "drag" there is on the intake, the less vacuum, the more air.

I traded in one of my 94 SSs (the daily driver) on the G8. Great minds seem to think alike!

As long as we are getting theoretical here, why should the CFM of air that an engine flows at WOT change with an intake change? The cubic inches of the engine didn't change and WOT is the same RPM with either intake (an assumption).



The assumption that I think we are making is the the stock intake and filter are a RESTRICTION which prevent the engine from getting the full amount of air that it needs. By removing that restriction in the form of having a free(er) flowing filter, and by having a smoother, larger, and/or shorter path for getting the air, more air has the potential to get into the engine. But...if the engine doesn't "need" any more air, then nothing is to be gained.

Do you have your "dealer approval" for this mod????

Billy Mays here - - - KABOOM!!!!

Any restriction in the intake tract creates a small vacuum, and thus even though the volume of air may be the same, with less restriction the air density is slightly higher.

The MAF meter measures the mass of the incoming air and therefore it will in measure any increase in density. The only reason I can think of that the A/F would change with an air inlet change is that the air might be hitting the meter differently than with the stock setup.

The assumption that I think we are making is the the stock intake and filter are a RESTRICTION which prevent the engine from getting the full amount of air that it needs. By removing that restriction in the form of having a free(er) flowing filter, and by having a smoother, larger, and/or shorter path for getting the air, more air has the potential to get into the engine. But...if the engine doesn't "need" any more air, then nothing is to be gained.

Willing to bet the engine is under vacuum most of the time. The intake track was designed to limit sound, so there is a LOT of room for improvement.

Something I never understood. Why don't CAI manufacturers just take a MAF reading on the dyno and compare flow numbers against eachother?

As long as we are getting theoretical here, why should the CFM of air that an engine flows at WOT change with an intake change? The cubic inches of the engine didn't change and WOT is the same RPM with either intake (an assumption).
From what (I think) I understand, naturally aspirated engines only pull around 80% of the ambient air pressure into the cylinder. If the 80% is right, that'd mean the 6.0L engine is working with 4.8L of air (at 1 atm, or 11.8 psi of the normal 14.7). Give the air an easier path to effuse into the engine and you might be working with 85% of the ambient air pressure. Give it forced induction and you might have 145% of the ambient pressure.