Originally I ordered an Alpine PLT-5 LAT type powered subwoofer for the G8, but when it didn't work correctly I decided to take a different route.

1. Profile AP1000M Mono Amplifier (500 Watts RMS @ 2 Ohms)
2. Apline Type-R 12" 4 Ohm DVC Subwoofer
3. Ebay Subwoofer Box, 1 CF, Sealed (13"H x 16"W x 12"D)
4. 4ga Amp Wiring Kit

The amp is decent sized, so I mounted it on top of the box, after figuring out I could still get the box under the rear package shelf and slid almost all the way forward. Mounting the amp up on top did cause the box to sit just a bit further back in the trunk, but it gains a lot more space back in the trunk.

The wiring is tapped directly into the positive terminal of the battery, and I drilled and used a 3/8" sheet metal bolt to mount the ground wire to the side of the vehicle chassis, behind the side panel. I used Posilock connectors to pull signals from the OEM subwoofer amplifier, connected to a Scosche Line Level Output box. From there I ran the RCA cables to the amp.

For the remote wire, I used another Posilock connector to tap into the black/pink wire in the taped up connector located above the OEM amplifier on the drivers side quarter panel. That is a switched +12v source. So kick on the radio with the power button, the sub does not come on (good). Turn the ignition on, and the subwoofer comes to life. I ran the wiring as cleany as I could, but left the remote wire loose because I had already sleeved the cables for the PLT-5 and didn't feel like redoing them just for a 18ga wire. However if I could hide it, it's hidden. :)

Overall it's a very simple installation and certainly not custom - but it can be removed from the car in about five minutes if you need to take that long trip and need to shoe horn that last suit case in the trunk. The only thing I have left to do is fabricate a small bracket that I can attach to the package shelf to keep the box stationary as it's only held by pressure under the rear package shelf. Unlike the Stealth install posted in this forum, the amp prevents my box from going further forward getting more contact. I may try a couple pieces of Velcro under the box to grab onto the OEM trunk carpet - it does not need much to keep it from moving.

I still have some tuning to do, and I'm not getting the most out of the sub by having it face the side, but it freaking feels like it will shake the car apart if I want it to. So far it's the best sounding sub I've ever had, very clean and crisp, yet will go very low. Sealed is the way to go, if you want to listen to a variety of music and not let everyone know you have some 'beat' in the trunk. :)

http://www.dmwtech.com/gallery2/d/4407-2/CIMG0860.JPG
http://www.dmwtech.com/gallery2/d/4414-2/CIMG0859.JPG
http://www.dmwtech.com/gallery2/d/4411-2/CIMG0861.JPG
http://www.dmwtech.com/gallery2/d/4411-2/CIMG0862.JPG

More Pics: http://www.dmwtech.com/gallery2/v/vehicles/g8gt/subwoofer/

good job! I had to have stereo so a double box for me....listen to alot of metal and rock

That is an incredible sub for the price. One of those sub's is louder than a lot of the dual 12's that I have heard. Great sub. If I were you, i'd put the sub on the other side of the trunk for weight distribution reasons. Battery on one side, sub on the other lol. Unless the wires don't reach.

I'm most likely going to flip flop it - but the wiring I already had set up was for the PLT-5 in the location behind the driver position. So the wires were too short, and I did want to put it on the passenger side. It does make for a cleaner installation on the drivers side due to running the power wires right out of the side panel and into the amp. I'll probably leave it like this through the summer, cause quite honestly I don't feel like crawling in there again. I'm also considering firing the sub facing forward with the amp mounted on the back of the box. We'll see, but for now it kicks some pretty serious ass. I have a Rockford Fosgate ported box in the shed that I may throw this sub into and see just how loud it can get. I'm going to adjust the sub placement for optimum sound and I'll settle on a mounting position. For the price, the amp was cheap and is HEAVY and seems well built. I think I paid around $140 for the amp, $199 for the Sub (I know I could have gotten it cheaper from Ebay), $17 for the box, and then the misc wiring and stuff was another $75 or so. This set up does have an adjustable gain knob which I ran into the center console under the arm rest, so I can adjust it on the fly from the drivers seat.

I'm not positive the G8 applies, but in most vehicles, having the sub face back towards the rear results in more bass. Guess it's the way the waves bounce around back there.

Looks good unixadm and I like the remote gain.

Seeing this made me want to do it lol. Is it possible to use the wires from the stock sub amps for the signal? Or do you have to run wires all the way to the front behind the center console?

Seeing this made me want to do it lol. Is it possible to use the wires from the stock sub amps for the signal? Or do you have to run wires all the way to the front behind the center console?

I had to splice 4 wires that ran to the factory amp, tapped the battery and that's it. This is by far the easiest install I've ever done.

There is some good info here :wink2:
http://www.g8board.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3256

There was a thread with the wire diagram posted in this section. Splice to the rear speakers. I used a relay switch hooked up to one positive speaker connection for my remote, and wired my amp directly to the battery (PPI allows this) so no holes drilled! Works perfectly, and even with 2 subs/boxes, I can still fit 8 large cases of water from Sams Club in the trunk! Tons of room back there.

BTW, everything is ran threw my Audio Control EQX which is hidden on the outside of the box opposite the amp.

Here's the info
http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm227/srg963/audiowiremapLarge.jpg
http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm227/srg963/P6120079.jpg
http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm227/srg963/P6040064.jpg

It's not as nice as some (or as stealth), but it only cost me $70 total (most of which was boxes). I had all the equipment from last vehicle. I mounted the amp on the inside thinking it would get some AC if the passthru was open. I may move it to the top once it cools off outside.

Really great info here. Thanks! Seems tough to mod some of the G8, and I also felt the stock system was rather lacking

How do you create the rca wires for the amp? Line out converter?

Which wires do you tap into, which colors?

Nice choice... I love my 12" Type R in the trunk! I had to lay down sound dampening throughout the trunk to be able to turn it up.

:iagree: That sub is definitely one of the best bang for your buck subs! Got the same 12 and an alpine mrp-m500 (should have got the m1000!) and can't wait to install it. That install still looks pretty clean unixadm nice work

Looks nice! I cant wait to get some bump in my trunk.... just waiting on finances.

very nice

I am going to install a Type R today, i am goign to try to see if the box I have fits in the wheel well area.

Anyways, I am used to doing custom stereos on some of my previous cars but I do it all, including the head unit, etc. since we cant really put head units on our cars, I have a questions, since it seems to me that everybody taht ive seen here install the subs tapping into the stock amp.

So is this the case? Can I tap into the stock amp to connect my Alpine amp, or do I have to go in the back of the stock head unit and go thru there?

I guess is the first time that Ill do an isntall using a stock headunit, so it seems a litttle different.

:iagree: That sub is definitely one of the best bang for your buck subs! Got the same 12 and an alpine mrp-m500 (should have got the m1000!) and can't wait to install it. That install still looks pretty clean unixadm nice work
That is my setup. It won't wake the neighbors, but it sounds GREAT. I really had a lot of tuning on the amp to get it to my liking, but the sound is clean

I have a questions, since it seems to me that everybody taht ive seen here install the subs tapping into the stock amp.

So is this the case? Can I tap into the stock amp to connect my Alpine amp, or do I have to go in the back of the stock head unit and go thru there?

Yes, I tapped the wires just before the connector at the stock amp. I've seen people do it different ways, but I cut the wires and then used butt connectors to the factory loc on the alpine

Whao that makes this a HELLA easy install then... Cool... thanks for the clarification...

Yes, I tapped the wires just before the connector at the stock amp. I've seen people do it different ways, but I cut the wires and then used butt connectors to the factory loc on the alpine

Just finish installing the 1500 peak 500 rms type r n the alpine amp. We couldnt get the line out converter with trigger so currently the install is all ghettoed until we get that converter, remote bass control and a few other lil things. But the main issue now is to find a box that fits in the wheel well. Since mine is to big.

The bass sounds great but damn it rattles, n i dont want to add weight with dynomat or other similar products. So i gotta think what ima do for that.

Can anybody that have put a sub in the wheel well tell me what size of box they used?