ok, so i have a 4ch amp from my other vehicle and not sure what to do. Do i leave the factory subs hooked up to the factory amp and just splice off the rear sub speakers to run to my new amp for the audio signal or what?

I could also run the stock subs to 2 channels on my new amp to run those and my new subs since its 4ch amp.

what would you do or what is the best option for me?

I would like to run my new amp bridged to get more power to my new subs. can i just splice off the sub speaker wires from the car(before the amp) to get my line levels to my new amp? :confused:

my amp does have the ability to turn on/off with audio signal detection so i dont need to run a remote wire.

I ran my sub in conjunction with the factory, but if i knew that you could crank up the factory unit, i would have never installed the after market one

search is your friend,many threads on this

If you're going to add an additional subwoofer I would recommend disconnecting the factory ones. Otherwise consider leaving the factory subs on the factory amp and adjusting the gain on it, and installing your 4 channel to run the front components and the rear door speakers. I would probably disconnect the center channel since its level will be hard to match with the amplified speakers.

i purchased a pre-tuned box with 2 12" subs in it. The new subs will handle approx. 400w rms each so i will need to bridge my amp to make enough power for the new subs so.....i guess i wont have enough power to run the 4ch the amp has. So i should disconnect the factory subs and just hook up to the new ones? So should i splice before or after the factory amp? I have read that i will get a cleaner signal if i go before the factory amp.and, would that be considered hi-level or low-level signal if i tap before the stock amp?

I'm running a 10w3 in conjunction with my stock subs and it sounds good to me. I would leave them hooked up and think of them as mid bass. The high low converter after the amp would probably be the easiest way to get it done. Just my novice opinion here.

I agree with Morris, leave the stock 8's hooked up, but turn down your bass a bit so they don't rattle. I had 2 12's in my trunk and it was too much, bass and weight. I'm down to one 12" centered.

I'm thinking one 10 would suffice. I'm not out to win a DB contest with the thing. Been there done that YEARS ago!:)

ok, i am now thoroughly confused. I cant get any sound out of the factory subs in the back. I have not done any wiring yet so i havent messed anything up. I just assumed they were working. What i thought was the stock car amp, i dont know if it is now. It has 2 bnc like connectors and one says gps by it and the other is not labeled. It also has 2 molex plugs,one is a 12wire and the other is a 16wire plug. I had tried to get sound out of the factory subs and its like theyre not even hooked up. I adjusted the fade to all rear and turned the bass all the way up and still didnt hear any sound out of them and i also felt them with my hand and i got nothing. is there a separate fuse for the car amp i'm not aware of? It seems like it has no power. I will upload some pictures of what i believe is the amp.

ok, i am now thoroughly confused. I cant get any sound out of the factory subs in the back. I have not done any wiring yet so i havent messed anything up. I just assumed they were working. What i thought was the stock car amp, i dont know if it is now. It has 2 bnc like connectors and one says gps by it and the other is not labeled. It also has 2 molex plugs,one is a 12wire and the other is a 16wire plug. I had tried to get sound out of the factory subs and its like theyre not even hooked up. I adjusted the fade to all rear and turned the bass all the way up and still didnt hear any sound out of them and i also felt them with my hand and i got nothing. is there a separate fuse for the car amp i'm not aware of? It seems like it has no power. I will upload some pictures of what i believe is the amp.

It's on the drivers side by the battery. NOT the rear deck lid!

Chris

The rear sub woofer AMP Is the weakest link. It's Junk - 50 watts per speaker peak! I just used the output of the stock amp with a line level converter to drive a new amp to the STOCK woofers. It sounds way better much more deep bass.

The stock Subs are 2 ohms. I have to put over 150 watts into each before I get even a hint of distortion. If you want bone-jarring bass than by all means don't use them. But the added amp made a huge difference with the least effort.

Plus no trunk space gets used up.

The only thing that was a pain was having to run a wire up front to connect the remote turn on. I couldn't find a wire in the trunk that turned on with the key.

Good luck

It's on the drivers side by the battery. NOT the rear deck lid!

Chris

thanks, the plug was unconnected from the amp. thats why i wasn't getting the subs to come on.

The only thing that was a pain was having to run a wire up front to connect the remote turn on. I couldn't find a wire in the trunk that turned on with the key.

Good luck

There is one somewhere... Someone here found it.:)

There is one somewhere... Someone here found it.:)

Yep, it's part of the back up sensor harness. The plug with 3 wires above the battery, i've read that one of them is a keyed source. I already bought a signal sensor for my remote so I can't confirm.

http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm227/srg963/P6270055.jpg

my amp detects incoming audio signal and turns the amp on that way. Automatically shuts off after 10 min after no audio signal present. So i dont need the keyed power source. Still cant believe my stock amp was disconnected from the factory. I had to push on the connector pretty good until i heard it lock in place. Everybody should check in their trunk to make sure its connected properly. Could be alot more of them out there that were not pushed in all the way.Sounded alot better after i plugged it in.

my amp detects incoming audio signal and turns the amp on that way. Automatically shuts off after 10 min after no audio signal present. So i dont need the keyed power source. Still cant believe my stock amp was disconnected from the factory. I had to push on the connector pretty good until i heard it lock in place. Everybody should check in their trunk to make sure its connected properly. Could be alot more of them out there that were not pushed in all the way.Sounded alot better after i plugged it in.

10 minutes would be nice! My powered Bazooka tube I have in my standard cab truck (nothing else would fit at the time) turns off within 30 seconds which SUCKS big time! POP BANG... stupid thing.:(

Do you have any pics of this install? I would like to do this with a 4 channel amp and add 2 bazooka's

The rear sub woofer AMP Is the weakest link. It's Junk - 50 watts per speaker peak! I just used the output of the stock amp with a line level converter to drive a new amp to the STOCK woofers. It sounds way better much more deep bass.

The stock Subs are 2 ohms. I have to put over 150 watts into each before I get even a hint of distortion. If you want bone-jarring bass than by all means don't use them. But the added amp made a huge difference with the least effort.

Plus no trunk space gets used up.

The only thing that was a pain was having to run a wire up front to connect the remote turn on. I couldn't find a wire in the trunk that turned on with the key.

Good luck