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Lifter Tick Question - Before I Make Another Mistake

2K views 13 replies 6 participants last post by  48548 
#1 ·
So I misdiagnosed (SP?) my noise and replaced my flex plate without fixing the noise. So before I go through what it takes to replace my lifters, I have a quick question for those in the know.

If the lifter is ticking, does the tick go away as the engine RPMs go up? Mine goes away when I rev over 1,200 or so. I'll post a quick phone video after work today.

I've already checked the idler and tensioner pulleys, ran it without any drive belts on and the noise was still there. With a stethoscope, it sounds like it is coming from the rear of the engine, so maybe the DOD lifter in #7?

Thanks for any and all help.
 
#2 ·
If the lifter is ticking, does the tick go away as the engine RPMs go up? Mine goes away when I rev over 1,200 or so. I'll post a quick phone video after work today.
Initially, yes. As the problem progresses, the tick becomes more persistent. Eventually it turns into a chirping sound rather than a tick. When it does that, it's really making metal.

Covered by 5 year/100,000 mile powertrain warranty. Go to a dealer that sells a lot of trucks. They do this job all the time on Silverados, Tahoes Suburbans and Escalades.
 
#3 ·
Thank you for the reply, hornetball. Unnfortunately I'll be tackling this myself as I'm at 125k miles.
I found a video clip on another post just after I made this one, and the sound is exactly mine, and one of his DOD lifters had bit the dust.

So now, like so many others, I'm debating getting an upgraded DOD cam, or possibly going with a DOD delete kit. Thunder Racing has a cost-effective kit, but I would still need a cam. Read the LS-9 cam swap thread, but came away not knowing if it was good or bad.
 
#4 ·
It's probably the lifters, mine went at 70k. I am doing the dod delete and a ls9 cam this spring. Cheapest swap out there and I wanted to maintain drive ability....plus I may get blown with tax return moneys
 
#5 ·
s.reef, can you post a complete list of what is required for your swap?
Part numbers would rock too, if you're willing. I still need mileage, but would like more power, and still spend as little as possible.

After I do mine, I'll see how it goes and then do Lady RamJet's, hopefully avoiding the tick. She's at 99k miles, and there's no noise to try to get it done under warranty.
 
#6 ·
I'm doing the lingenfelter dod kit...I think it's like $500, comes with everything minus springs. Springs, cam and fluids ill probably do a few other things plugs wires etc while its open
 
#8 ·
I just had the number 7 lifter bite the dust too. They replaced the cam but only 8 of the lifters so I'm a bit pissed. I work as a contractor for GM and I had 113K on the engine. GM covered the parts, I paid the labor, but for the time in the time guides, I could have paid for a new engine install. A LS3 is $1000 less than the L76, but it would have still been an additional $4K.

Should it fail again, I will go that route. The performance parts engine comes with a 2 year 50K warranty, but a replacement LS3 is 3 year/100K miles and the policy is that if the engine was available in the model year, you can upgrade to the larger engine as long as any subsystems, fuel/cooling/ignition etc. are also upgraded or meet the specs.
 
#11 ·
I’m sorry to read about the number 7 lifter, Is We Having Fun Yet?. Since you posted that you just had all this work done, have you called the dealership about this? I’m wondering if they would work with you about getting this taken care too.

Michelle, GM Customer Service
 
#12 ·
48548, mine doesn't sound like that. Yours sounds like a really quiet version of the flex plate issue. I doubt it's that though. I start first by pulling off the belts and running the engine for a minute to see if the sound is still there. Tensioners and idler pulleys are much easier to change than the other stuff.
 
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