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Fiberglass door pods....

4K views 11 replies 7 participants last post by  therapture 
#1 ·
...finally in the initial stages. I have a guy ready to start working on them as soon as the woofers arrive frpm partsexpress. Wonder how I am gonna drive the car for a few days with the door panels off...lol. While it's apart I am going to finish deadening the door and mechanisms.

I am going to be driving these with 65w x 2 in a custom made ~.3ft³ fiberglass pod that will be using the door pocket as it's airspace. Wrapped in black vinyl to match the door panel.

The amplifier will be running a bandpass from 60-250 hertz to add some front stage midbass punch, I am specifically going for more SQ and keeping the subwoofer in the trunk "invisible".

The woofer: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=295-309

Updates in the somewhat near future....
 
#2 ·
Have you test fit those yet? Because they are too deep for the stock door panels. The "hole" in the door sheet metal is not in the same spot as in the door panel, either. I actually had to cut up my door sheet metal a bit and use a 1-1/8" spacer to get a less deep speaker to fit, and even then, it was a pain to position it so perfectly as to keep the surround of the woofer from hitting the door panel.

And I could not fit these at all in the right location to align up with the door panel: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=296-602 - I did have them fitting (just barely anyway - the pole vent didn't have much clearance) where the big hole in the door sheet metal was. But again, that didn't line up with the door panel.
 
#3 ·
I am keeping my Infinity midranges in the stock location. This is totally seperate to add some bass/midbass in the doors up front. The woofer will go approximately where the circle is in the pic, getting all of that pocket fiberglassed in for the sealed enclosure so there is plenty of depth actually. It will be stiffened with a couple of dowel rods as well to prevent any coloring of the sound via resonance.



My subwoofer setup in the spare tire well.

 
#4 ·
I am running a 3" Deep woofer in my door and was able to make it fit, but just barely. I also didn't have to cut any metal in the door. Just made a bracket from sheet metal and used a 3/4" MDF ring as a spacer. There is probably less than 1/8" between the back of the woofer and the window (when down) and also very little room between the front of the woofer and the door panel. The speaker is also not lined up with the grill in the panel.
Here's the bracket that was made. The metal is ugly, but who cares since it isn't seen.


As for wanting more bass up front. Honestly, if you get a nice woofer in the stock location, deaden up the door, and seal it up, you'll have plenty of bass up front.
 
#5 ·
swargolet, I see you have a very nice woofer there....what model is that?

I am just getting something done that I have never had before, a dedicated midbass/woofer for the front door that has a true sealed enclosure, this pod may even be a candidate for an aperiodic setup in the near future with a true 6.5" subwoofer in there.

I have a very clean sub in the trunk as you see, I just want more up front!

And I like doing good things with lower cost parts. Dayton is a great product and you don't pay the "name brand pricing game".
 
#9 ·
I'm running a Focal KRX2 component set.
The dedicated woofer in the door should be nice, I just didn't know if you were going that route because you felt like that was the only option or if you wanted a 3-way setup.
I agree with you on the name brand pricing. I rarely buy any of my car audio gear new as it just isn't worth it. There is no way in hell I would've paid retail for my Focals. Usually you can get used gear for about half price, but then you run the risk of it being a knock off or damaged, luckily I've never ran into that.

Good luck with the install and post pics when you're done!
 
#8 ·
I'm running a 2-way CDT Audio set up in the front with just CDT Audio M6's crossed at 3K in the rear doors with a set of Kicker Comp 8's in the rear shelf. Spot the weak link :)
Will be looking at undermounting a shallow pair of 10's firing through the rear deck or even going for a Focal 13 in the spare tyre well. Regardless, it's distances that NEED time alignment:)
 
#10 ·
Nice focals...I bet they are very, very sweet.

My builder is going to do this in his spare time, so I expect now it is going to take @3 weeks to do, I might buy a pair of door panels from ebay for 150 bucks for him to use, that way I can have a spare set of stock panels.


I picked the Dayton DC160 specifically for a dedicated, band passed midbass/woofer. They are not great at being midranges and need to be crossed over at 250hz or a bit lower, with a subsonic filter on them at about 50-60hz they should put out the "impact" for kickdrum, bass guitar, etc., that I am wanting. And I can then cross my Infinity's over a bit higher and get improved SQ in the vocals/midrange. A lot of the electronica I listen to (psytrance, ambient, vocal trance, IDM, etc.) has some upper midbass that doesn't really translate well to a larger sub, since you have to cross that sub over so high to pick up those ranges properly, and my midrange Infinity's aren't really that good at being woofers!

All I am waiting for him to get started on the build is the speakers, eta is Monday. Maybe Friday. No big rush, and in a few weeks I will indeed post pictures, results, impressions, etc.
 
#12 ·
Thinking about doing something similar using that door pocket as airspace. How come no pics?

After some more research, I went a different direction. I drop kicked the Infinity mids, got some real midbass drivers from Hybrid Audio, and sealed/deadened my door. This setup rocks. I went whole hog towards the sound quality side of things, and went fully active, running a digital sound processor, new 5 channel amp, new sub, and a few tens of hours of labor getting everything tuned, deadened, etc.

 
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