So I've done some searching and can't seem to find a DIY for changing out the front lower control arms. Mine have never been changed and they just started doing it at 58K. So I unfortunately I won't be having the dealer cover it under warranty.
I ordered the New Kit that comes with all four arms and will be installing them tomorrow. Has anyone changed them themselves or know a place that gives instructions... I'm assuming it can't be that hard since it is only four nuts and two bolts. Through some digging I found this picture with some specs on it, but I'm not quite sure which specs are for the arm the has the bend in it.
I dont have a how to but theres a post around here where someone said they took only an hour or two to replace them, Ill see if I can find it. Ive been under the car, its only a few bolts...gotta knock the ball joints from the knuckle.
Good to know and yeah an alignment will be done. I have SLP springs, Whiteline Strut Mounts and Bearings, LCA's and new Clevis Bolts all sitting in a pile waiting to be done. So needless say I will definitely need an alignment after all that, lol
Im doing the same thing. just got all 4 control arms today, i also got bmr bushings for the control arms while i have them out. I also have new strut top mounts/bearings to install at the same time. it helps to know a mechanic with a lift in his garage too, he will be helping me.
JCMG8: thanks for that link it will help with more than just this task.
To those that have done this, is it safe to reuse the nuts/bolts for the control arms? I know the strut to steering knuckle bolts are single use so at minimum ill will be getting those.
actually, the best deal is at drcustomparts dot com. He sells a set of DVD's that are the GM service software used in dealerships. They contain all GM vehicles from 90 something thru 2009 or 2010. It's the real deal, TSBs and search based on part name, flow charts etc. at the bottom of the prices section.
I have 5 different ball joint tools myself but the one I used for this car is the one from Harbor Freight. Thing is, I had to modify it a bit with my Dremel to open it up. It won't fit stock, and I'm not really sure what would :/ Advance and Autozone carry a few
BTW, get a ratcheting "Cross Force" 18mm wrench. The ones that have a twist in them. I had a set of those but it, like many wrench sets, it skipped the 18mm...
For the most part that's true, however there isn't a lot of room to get the leverage/impact you need should it be stubborn. My passenger side was stubborn and it was not coming out with a hammer of any type. I had to get some type of ball joint pry bar to get it out. My club has had to use a pry bar on a few of our cars, but normally just a hammer will work fine.
I'd expect that would work if you have the right size one (not sure which that would be). Not as big a fan of those myself though. I have one but I don't think I tried it on my car.
Pickle fork didn't. Only thing that work was wacking a big hammer on the bolt about a hundred times.
Off-topic, when you install a new strut mount, how tight do the two top nuts need to be? One nut holds the mount and one nut holds the strut to the body of the car.
Doesn't anyone else have subscriptions to All Data DIY? For $44.95 for the first car, you get a 5-year sub and access to nearly every piece of info about the car, including wiring diagrams, codes, troubleshooting guides, etc. I have subs for all my cars, and on only a coupld of occasions did I not find the info I needed. It even has part numbers for everything, although they are always subject to GM revision.
And, FWIW, the last time I replaced the CRs, my GM ball joint separator (the correct one for our cars) would simply not work. A pickle fork wouldn't work. I ended up hammering on the ball joint thread end, and they popped right out. If you need to re-use the CR's (just replacing bushings) then use an old nut on the end to hammer on.
My experience with manufacturer or pro install guides is they're written for installers that have access to industrial grade tools and already have extensive mechanical knowledge. For example, when I removed the rear shock, the GM guide made it sound so simple and did not recommend removing much to get the shock out. I ended up removing much more (end link and 2 control arms) and still struggled to wiggle it out of there.
I much prefer DIY written up by home mechanics or enthusiasts.
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