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Chain tensioner...to swap or not to swap

4K views 17 replies 7 participants last post by  IDRIVEAG8GT 
#1 ·
I have done 1 cam swap, and left the stock one in due to the fear of the oil pick up tube (further confirmed by Daniels engine failure). Are most people swapping this to the ls2 version, or leaving it with the stock one? I am starting my 2nd swap this evening, and am unsure of what to do. Also, would the stock chain need switched after 26k? Thanks for any input.
 
#2 ·
I've always subscribed to the school of thought that says if it's a wear item and it's a lot of work to get to it - replace it while you're in the neighborhood...just like a throwout bearing if the trans was dropped...

Really not necessary, no, but perhaps a small piece of mind...of course it's at the risk of breaking something that wasn't broken lol
 
#3 ·
I am currently in the middle of a cam swap and im switching to the ls2 style. car has 45k miles and the stock chain tensioner was in perfect shape. Im also replacing the chain.
 
#7 ·
I found large parts of mine in the oil pan. I'd be ready to change it, either way. And yes, it's best to check the alignment prior to reinstall of the oil pump. I'm also thinking that if it is as easy as I've heard, remove the 2 motor mount bolts, jack up the motor 2 inches. Place small 2x4s between the mount and the k member to give more clearance. Then when you lower the pan, you have enough room to get the oil pump pickup bolt with no issues. Next time...
 
#8 ·
Never heard of this method. I did have some trouble getting the oil pan to drop much.
 
#9 ·
We dropped the oil pan 4 times for my cam install. Removing the oil pan by lifting the engine slightly is an excellent way to do it. Plus, it gives you incredible peace of mind knowing that you got the oil pick up tube into the oil pump properly!

The reason the oil pan doesn't have much room to drop is because of the steering rack & pinion. If you search the forums I posted a small how to on the easiest way we could come up with to drop the oil pan completely out. It does include taking of the two motor mount nuts, the rack & pinion, and and a few various other bolts responsible for holding that oil pan on.

The rack & pinion is literally 4 large nuts on the frame and one nut on each side for the tie rods. Very easy.
 
#12 ·
I just thought it was easiest to line up the dots. But the pick up tube was a real bitch.
 
#13 ·
It is the easiest, but what I'm saying is, you don't have to see the bottom dot on the crank pulley to know where it's at. Simply put number one piston (the one closest to you facing your right hand side as you're looking from the front of the engine) all the way up, TDC, and you can rest assured the dot on the crank is facing straight up.
 
#15 ·
Swap done...Very happy with the results.
 
#17 ·
Working today, then heading to vegas tonight. I will do it weds when I get back. Definitely a fair amount more power.
 
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