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Old 09-15-2012, 04:06 PM   #81
3grams
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Guys i would like to ask which 194 LED bulb would light the license plate better.
this or this?
The Flat one will project more light forward / directional. Im not sure how they will look for the plate area (typically they are used for map lights). I have a pair of 6K 360 degree and they illuminate the plate + rear of my trunk lid perfect. Enough light to see my plate & back lid, but not enough where I'm lighting 20 feet behind my car as I drive down the road.
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Old 09-15-2012, 04:09 PM   #82
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Thanks for the input guys
i guess ill go for the 360 degree sounds good
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Old 11-22-2012, 11:04 AM   #83
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Anyone know what style bulb goes in each location ? As in flat or 360" I'm looking to convert all interior and exterior bulbs.
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Old 11-23-2012, 11:40 AM   #84
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Originally Posted by 00ttvr6 View Post
Anyone know what style bulb goes in each location ? As in flat or 360" I'm looking to convert all interior and exterior bulbs.
If you're still looking hit me up...
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Old 11-23-2012, 11:42 AM   #85
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Originally Posted by 5litrarag View Post
If you're still looking hit me up...
^^ this

He provides one hell of a 194 LED bulbs! pleasure to deal with
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Old 11-25-2012, 07:04 PM   #86
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Valuable team members,
I replaced the front dome light bulb with the recommended LED light but something weird is happening.

Sometimes it lights up and other times nothing.

Anyone else have this problem?
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Old 12-08-2012, 07:13 PM   #87
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Sent 5lita a few pms....he still around?
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Old 12-08-2012, 07:22 PM   #88
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Yep! Just got some mail from him a few days ago. It was OUTSTANDING news!
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Old 12-08-2012, 11:10 PM   #89
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Valuable team members,
I replaced the front dome light bulb with the recommended LED light but something weird is happening.

Sometimes it lights up and other times nothing.

Anyone else have this problem?
Yes,all the time.It's just a bad contact.Take the bulb out and pull the metal contacts on the bulb out a little then reinstall bulb.
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Old 12-09-2012, 12:36 AM   #90
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I have a few led bulbs that I have had in my car I can get them in a soft white or blue here's what the white ones look like if anyone's interested ....

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Old 12-09-2012, 06:01 PM   #91
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Has anyone tried either of these?

"LED Decoder" http://www.ebay.com/itm/1157-2357-Hy...-/380400481150

Mod to flasher to eliminate hyperflash. http://www.backinblackgp.com/Hyperflash_Mod.htm

It seems a modified flasher module is by far the best solution.
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Old 12-09-2012, 06:35 PM   #92
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I have Putco brand load resistors since Feb 2011. No issues. They get very hot. Mine are wrapped in to rubber stick on either side of resistor and then mounted to car. This will avoid melting of the car part they are mounted too. My front one is mounted to a/c line. If u need pics let me know.
Also when I get a chance I have pair of used Putco 360 1157 bulbs and brand new unbranded pair of load resistors I am going to list for sale.

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Old 12-09-2012, 06:56 PM   #93
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^^^You'll have to let me check that out. That's going to be a project I have LOTS of questions about.
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Old 12-09-2012, 06:57 PM   #94
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You got it Blitz.

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Old 12-09-2012, 06:58 PM   #95
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Fast response. lol
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Old 12-10-2012, 10:24 AM   #96
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 00ttvr6 View Post
Sent 5lita a few pms....he still around?
Im right here....whats up?
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Old 12-10-2012, 11:08 AM   #97
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Quote:
Originally Posted by likwidred View Post
Has anyone tried either of these?

"LED Decoder" http://www.ebay.com/itm/1157-2357-Hy...-/380400481150

Mod to flasher to eliminate hyperflash. http://www.backinblackgp.com/Hyperflash_Mod.htm

It seems a modified flasher module is by far the best solution.
First, flasher module:
We dont have one. Some cars have a delayed relay or some kind of chip that controls the blinker rate. We dont, our BCM (body computer) controls the flasher directly. So that route wont work.

Second, LED decoder:
This will work on the rear, and not in the front. Its just a resistor with a male and female connector, so instead of tapping into one wire with a resistor you're plugging our harness into it and the other end into the bulb. This is a lot of money just so you dont have to tap into one wire, but if thats easier for you it will work in the rear assuming you have the correct connectors on the one you buy. However, for the front turn signals, we dont have a wire harness that pops on the back of the bulb. We have a small socket that pops out with the bulb with prongs on the sides, and the wiring stays inside the headlight housing. So this quick (expensive) decoder thing wouldnt work for the fronts.
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Old 12-10-2012, 11:55 AM   #98
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Originally Posted by TurboMike View Post
First, flasher module:
We dont have one. Some cars have a delayed relay or some kind of chip that controls the blinker rate. We dont, our BCM (body computer) controls the flasher directly. So that route wont work.

Second, LED decoder:
This will work on the rear, and not in the front. Its just a resistor with a male and female connector, so instead of tapping into one wire with a resistor you're plugging our harness into it and the other end into the bulb. This is a lot of money just so you dont have to tap into one wire, but if thats easier for you it will work in the rear assuming you have the correct connectors on the one you buy. However, for the front turn signals, we dont have a wire harness that pops on the back of the bulb. We have a small socket that pops out with the bulb with prongs on the sides, and the wiring stays inside the headlight housing. So this quick (expensive) decoder thing wouldnt work for the fronts.
Thanks for the clarification.

I'm not going to tap into my harness to add resistors. I'm fine with spending money but no modifications to the harness. It's not about being easy. I simply don't want to "hack" my car. (For those that do these things to their cars great. It's your car. I just feel differently than you do.)

What about the "error-free" bulbs with built-in resistors? I find them listed for european cars. I assume the load resistors are the wrong value for our "American" cars?
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Old 12-10-2012, 12:25 PM   #99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5litrarag View Post
Im right here....whats up?
You get my pm's?
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WTB: LED's, springs/struts, pads, rotors, gxp bumper, gxp diffuser

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Old 12-10-2012, 01:53 PM   #100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by likwidred View Post
I'm not going to tap into my harness to add resistors. I'm fine with spending money but no modifications to the harness. It's not about being easy. I simply don't want to "hack" my car. (For those that do these things to their cars great. It's your car. I just feel differently than you do.)
There is a new LED bulb on the market from V-LED's called V3 Triton. I've had there platinum 7443 Red LED brake lights now for a long time with no issues (started with standard then upgraded to platinum when they came out, both sets work fine). I never upgraded my blinkers because like you, I did not want to splice in resistors. The V3 Triton are 'plug & play'. The resistors connect as easy as plugging in a headphone jack (watch the video). For our brake or reverse lights you do not need resistors, only for the turn signals. They have just been released, but so far they are getting positive reviews from verified buyers and videos just starting popping up on YouTube raving about them. I plan on buying a set come spring time, no rush as I park my G8 for the winter.

PROS:
In my opinion, it is the best looking 360 degree LED bulb on the market (single glass dome style).
Red 7443 is much better looking than the platinum bulbs I use now.
Bulb can be focused; turn the knob during install and it goes in & out for best reflection.
V3 Triton has a lifetime warranty. All other products have a 1 year warranty.

CONS:
Price. The Red 7443 are $99 for the pair w/ free shipping. I paid $45 for the platinum.
The Amber 1156 cost $99 + $20 to add the resistors (hyper flash fix).
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