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Old 01-06-2013, 03:38 PM   #1
gtp6515
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Default Any good write ups on 3.45 diff install?

I recently bought a Camaro diff and am looking to install myself. Is this a pretty easy job? And what needs to be done to the tune? Just mph adjustmemts? Thanks for any links, or tips.
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Old 01-06-2013, 05:20 PM   #2
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subscribed. i have mine coming thursday and all i found are word write ups. i like pictures. did you get craddle and diff bushings?
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12.6 @109-old tune
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Old 01-06-2013, 05:23 PM   #3
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Mine is coming with pfadt bushings. Considered cradle bushings.
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Old 01-06-2013, 05:31 PM   #4
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Im sure its a common question, ...but why the camaro diff? Just the ratio? Because its common and inexpensive? Is it stronger?
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Old 01-06-2013, 06:00 PM   #5
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complete pumpkin swap fits with g8. not work changing just changing the gearing in our housing
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12.6 @109-old tune
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Old 01-06-2013, 07:36 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Yeti's Source for my own DYI swap with a pic added

Put the car on lift and remove the tires.
Take off just the calipers and set it to the side...I didn't do the remove the spline nut thing GM recommends.
Unplug the abs sensor
Now with a 18mm socket and wrench...take out all 4 of the bushing bolts on the inside of the hub(the suspension linkage). All but 1 has just a standard bolt hole. 1 of them has a slight elongated hole for adjustments. The nut will leave a indention where it was..so put it back in the same spot when done.
Now have a helper take a pry bar and gently put it between the diff and the big round ends of the axles. At the same time you pull on the hub section,have him pry out on the axles....they just pop out. Let them just hang there. Let the hub assembly hang by the emergency cable. Do the other side.
Now for the drive shaft. I took a large wrench and slide it over the ears of the drive shaft(you'll figure it out when doing this) to keep it from turning as you take out the 3 bolts holding it on. Let it hang there.
Unhook the exhaust from the 2 hangers right behind the diff.
Reach above the diff and unplug the breather tube.
Now take out the 3 bushing bolts holding the diff. It shouldn't fall. If it does it'll rest on the exhaust. Now pull the rear down first. Then pull the front down till it just clears the mounts. Have your helper with one hand pull the exhaust down,while using the other to assist you. Now while pulling the rear down,twist the diff,so as to pull it down and thru the exhaust. It should just fit thru. For some reason...no fluid was spilt while doing this. Set the diff down...take a break....now just reverse the process and put the new in.

If you do the pedders bushings....you'll have to push the diff back in the holders real hard...there TIGHT!
Once installed you might have to take alittle of the fluid out of your old one to top off the new one. I had one of those cheap hand pumps that fit oil bottles...

I started this at 8:00am...at 10:30am I was driving down the street.
Hope this helps some....my way isn't the GM way...but it's faster...2.5 hours vs. about 7 by the book.


And there you go...
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Pat G Tune & DOD cam, Rick C Intake & TB, 4IN LS7 MAF, Ported stock Heads, Circle D 2600 Stall
VCM CAI, OBX Exhaust, SLP UDP,H&Rs, Koni Shocks
BP catch can, BMR Susp/bush/chasis, Brembo's, Slotted/Drilled Rotors, 3.27 Gears, Zex Wet Shot


Bolt ons Street tires
12.649@107.817 60ft 1.96 Da 700ft

Heads/Cam pre stall Street tires
12.16@114.2 60ft 1.75 Da -200

After Stall
11.82@115.9 60ft 1.66 DA 400ft

Zex 125shot
11.48@124 60ft 1.83 DA 2000ft
second gear pull
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Old 01-06-2013, 09:47 PM   #7
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Thanks Yeti! I am very weary about this mod being worth the money. Some people make it sound like it makes a huge difference at the track, and others say not so much. I would have to assume that it has to accelerate faster...but been wrong before.
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Old 01-06-2013, 10:05 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gtp6515 View Post
Thanks Yeti! I am very weary about this mod being worth the money. Some people make it sound like it makes a huge difference at the track, and others say not so much. I would have to assume that it has to accelerate faster...but been wrong before.
I made one trip to the track with my diff and I didn't go faster. my shift points on the tune were still off a tad but I basically ran the same times as I always did, albeit the DA was a little worse than usual. If I had to guestimate I would think it could have given me half a tenth at the track but you have to remember I run street tires so traction gets worse with mods like this.

On the street though it makes the car feel much more alive, just doesn't translate at the track with the stock stall. I honestly don't think gears are really needed with this car unless you have a cam due to its extended RPM range.
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Pat G Tune & DOD cam, Rick C Intake & TB, 4IN LS7 MAF, Ported stock Heads, Circle D 2600 Stall
VCM CAI, OBX Exhaust, SLP UDP,H&Rs, Koni Shocks
BP catch can, BMR Susp/bush/chasis, Brembo's, Slotted/Drilled Rotors, 3.27 Gears, Zex Wet Shot


Bolt ons Street tires
12.649@107.817 60ft 1.96 Da 700ft

Heads/Cam pre stall Street tires
12.16@114.2 60ft 1.75 Da -200

After Stall
11.82@115.9 60ft 1.66 DA 400ft

Zex 125shot
11.48@124 60ft 1.83 DA 2000ft
second gear pull
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Old 01-06-2013, 10:14 PM   #9
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Maybe i should have just done a stall. I could always just sell it when it gets here. I was hoping for .2-.3 out of this mod.
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Old 01-06-2013, 10:50 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gtp6515 View Post
Maybe i should have just done a stall. I could always just sell it when it gets here. I was hoping for .2-.3 out of this mod.
You may get close to that. Just need your tune to be dialed in and have enough traction. The 3.45s will make traction worse with out drag radials. If you have traction though it will allow you to run through the traps in 4th gear in your power band. Just have to have the right mods to support it.

I had a 3.27 and with it I was running low 12.7s which was right in line with what I was running before. However my shift points were off still as the tune wasn't close to being dialed in perfectly yet, and the DA was over 1000 when my previous runs happened in DA between 500-750.

Don't worry about the track though, because launching from out the hole with our car sucks with the stock stall, and the launch is everything at the track. Your car will come alive from a roll, and you will enjoy the gears because of that. On the freeway and street it made my car feel like it shed 500lbs, and helped shrink the size of the dead spots while moving the MPH in for my powerband RPMs to better speeds for roll racing.
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Pat G Tune & DOD cam, Rick C Intake & TB, 4IN LS7 MAF, Ported stock Heads, Circle D 2600 Stall
VCM CAI, OBX Exhaust, SLP UDP,H&Rs, Koni Shocks
BP catch can, BMR Susp/bush/chasis, Brembo's, Slotted/Drilled Rotors, 3.27 Gears, Zex Wet Shot


Bolt ons Street tires
12.649@107.817 60ft 1.96 Da 700ft

Heads/Cam pre stall Street tires
12.16@114.2 60ft 1.75 Da -200

After Stall
11.82@115.9 60ft 1.66 DA 400ft

Zex 125shot
11.48@124 60ft 1.83 DA 2000ft
second gear pull
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Old 01-07-2013, 11:21 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Yeti View Post
And there you go...
Question after the install you said you drove your car right after did you have a tune for it. Or are you able to drive the car with a tune until you get one. The only reason I ask cause I plan todo this myself then drive it to my tuner if its possible


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Old 01-07-2013, 11:29 PM   #12
nemesis350
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I think the tune is just to correct the speedometer and shift points. The shiftpoints would be important (correct me if im wrong)
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Old 01-08-2013, 12:47 AM   #13
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You can drive around in manual mode for a while, but your trans will be a little confused. A tune is a must, but doesn't have to be right at that moment.
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Pat G Tune & DOD cam, Rick C Intake & TB, 4IN LS7 MAF, Ported stock Heads, Circle D 2600 Stall
VCM CAI, OBX Exhaust, SLP UDP,H&Rs, Koni Shocks
BP catch can, BMR Susp/bush/chasis, Brembo's, Slotted/Drilled Rotors, 3.27 Gears, Zex Wet Shot


Bolt ons Street tires
12.649@107.817 60ft 1.96 Da 700ft

Heads/Cam pre stall Street tires
12.16@114.2 60ft 1.75 Da -200

After Stall
11.82@115.9 60ft 1.66 DA 400ft

Zex 125shot
11.48@124 60ft 1.83 DA 2000ft
second gear pull
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Old 06-17-2013, 06:20 PM   #14
bg8leefook
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Yeti View Post
You can drive around in manual mode for a while, but your trans will be a little confused. A tune is a must, but doesn't have to be right at that moment.
Yeti I'm doing this swap this weekend and I wound have a lift but jack stand can it still be done lol
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Old 06-17-2013, 07:10 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bg8leefook View Post
Yeti I'm doing this swap this weekend and I wound have a lift but jack stand can it still be done lol
I did mine on jack stands. It is not that bad at all, but a lift makes everything easier.
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Pat G Tune & DOD cam, Rick C Intake & TB, 4IN LS7 MAF, Ported stock Heads, Circle D 2600 Stall
VCM CAI, OBX Exhaust, SLP UDP,H&Rs, Koni Shocks
BP catch can, BMR Susp/bush/chasis, Brembo's, Slotted/Drilled Rotors, 3.27 Gears, Zex Wet Shot


Bolt ons Street tires
12.649@107.817 60ft 1.96 Da 700ft

Heads/Cam pre stall Street tires
12.16@114.2 60ft 1.75 Da -200

After Stall
11.82@115.9 60ft 1.66 DA 400ft

Zex 125shot
11.48@124 60ft 1.83 DA 2000ft
second gear pull
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Old 06-19-2013, 12:41 PM   #16
bg8leefook
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Ok sweet can I use my hp tuner to calibrate my rear end instead of taking it to get tuned


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