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Speaker advice...

12K views 154 replies 28 participants last post by  I12XLR8 
#1 ·
I am looking to start upgrading the speakers in the car. I have done the Bass Mod and Sub Wiring Mod, which improved things greatly, but still find the system lacking a nice clear powerful sound once the volume starts to creep up. My trunk is a often used part of the car so extra sub boxes are not an option.

I have little-to-no sound system knowledge other than the cheap stuff I threw into my cars when I was a kid. I don't mind doing the work but don't really know what I am looking for where equipment is concerned. To keep the options reasonable I would like to spend no more than $1000, preferably as little as possible.

Ideas?
 
#34 ·
As I posted earlier, Infinity Kappa 32.9cf from onlinecarstereo for $59. Do a google search for this company as I cant put the link here.
 
#39 ·
Found it! Beat eBay pricing by a couple of bucks so looks like I'll be using them. Thanks!

Relax, breathe, we're here to help. LOL! All 4 doors get the 62.9's the center dash speaker gets 1 32.9 leaving you 1 more you can sell to another member. On the 62.9's you will find a button that changes the input db for the tweeters, for the rears you want the button set to 0 for the fronts you want it set to -3db. IF you get the Infinity speakers this will make sense as soon as you open the box and see the speaker with the little button I'm talking about.

As for not being able to find the 32.9's just do a search for Infinity Kappa 32.9 and page after page comes up.
So what's your thought on the subs...should I get the kicker 8" shallow mounts to replace the stockers?
 
#36 ·
Hi guys, Kind of stumbled onto this tread. I am interested in the Infinity Kappa 62.9s! Do we have separate tweeters in the upper corners of the dash(close to the pilars)? What did you guys do with these tweeters? Leave them alone or disable/unplug? Thanks!

If you have another tweet with your components or a 2 way like the
Infinity 6022i's...unplug them. They are harsh and overbearing at high volume levels.
 
#48 ·
Sorry about the long delay. I'm usually "in tune" with new posts. Been working on the "hack my visor up for fun mod" tonight.




**Oh wait...lol...I just noticed that "long delay" was THREE minutes ago! hahaha
 
#53 ·
By full fledged do you mean boxed subs in the trunk? I might go that way in the future but for now I need all the real estate I have in the trunk. I would mind powering the deck subs if that would make a difference...
 
#54 ·
Thanks for the advice guys, just ordered 4 kappa 62.9's from a place that only charged 66 per pair and free shipping!! I'm gonna swap the center speaker out after i do the doors and sort out my sub issues. right now i am thinking of just using a 10" SAS i have and old RF 360.2 amp.. The SAS i have has an old Orion 2NTense sub in it.. that speaker is a monster.
 
#55 ·
I kinda like all my space too. Ideally I could keep all the space, have a full size spare AND have decent power to a sub or two. Something to make the wife and kids whine but not to necessarily win any spl or fidelity contests.


Ahhh, I see yet another member found "that thing". :wink2: Awesome.
 
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#83 ·
Derek and I found out yesterday that the 32.9 drops right into the 08 cars but with an 09.5 its a VERY tight fit! His is an 08 V6 and he had no problem, mine is an 09.5 GT and I had to tighten the screws down to draw it in cause it wouldn't fit due to the magnet being so big. I can report that it will go in with a little wrestling so don't worry if you think it won't fit cause it will. Also you're gonna find that the factory screw holes will not line up with the 2 tabs on the 32.9, only one of the 2 can line up. Derek came up with a pretty good solution without having to drill a new screw hole, use a washer on the one screw and it will over lap the other mounting tab allowing you to tighten down the other side. Maybe Derek could get a pick of this up to show you guys cause it seems like my speaker grill is more of a bitch to get off then his was.
Spacers.. Enough said Terry.. They sell them at Best Buy or any stereo shop. You will notice with the stockers that if you take a flashlight and shine into the stock grill you will notice damn near 3/4 of an inch space from the face of the speaker to the grill. I put half inch spaces in and still have at least .3 of an inch clearance.
 
#60 ·
Can anyone recommend a set of component speakers for the front doors/tweeters. Preferably a set that doesn't require any extensive modification to fit. I will use the infinity coaxials for the rear.
 
#63 ·
i have only used the polks. no drilling or splicing. hardest part is fishing the wire from tweeter through door to crossover. Mount the crossover inside the door with good industrial double sided tape and make sure it clears the window. Whole project both sides taking your time and doing it right takes a few hours. Buy the speaker connectors to avoid any cutting.
 
#61 ·
OK. Couldn't wait for the feedback on the 62.9's ;-O

Just ordered a set of 32.9cf's and 4 62.9's. Left the rear subs for now as there was no benefit to ordering them with everything else.

Scorpious...the other centre is yours if you want it for $40 (half of the pair price after taxes)
 
#65 ·
As Jackalope said, the tweeter is slightly angled and the whole housing turns so that you are able to aim the tweeter in the direction to help optimize the sound.
 
#66 ·
Just installed my KICKER C8 8" Single 2-Ohm Comp Subs (10C82) They are much more substantial than the stockers for sure. I have them hooked up to the stock amp at this time. I want to give the subs a couple days of hard pounding before I make my verdict. But just from tonight I would say they seem pretty good. They can take more volume for sure and they do sound better. I would say about a 20% improvement in sound so far.

It is not night and day like I was hoping...but acceptable. I know an amp would help....but I am thinking if you are looking for big bass....you need to look for a 12inch sub in the trunk or similar.

I worked very hard to find all the rattles and buzzes on the rear deck....but there is just something about the rear deck that likes to vibrate like hell.

A sub in the trunk with the center seat folded down would for sure produce a lot better results.

I will live with the 8s for a while and see if they "break in" and get better.

Plus I have four infinity kappas coming for all four doors. I will see how it all sounds together and go from there.

So far, I think it was worth the $89 I spent....I just want to know if a new sub amp....say 150 watts per channel will bring more bass...without making the rear deck rattle apart.... Our rear deck and subs just don't mix well.

So, do you think I should get a $150 amp and would like it.....or just scrap the 8s in the deck and go with a box with a single 12 in the trunk?
 
#67 ·
i skimmed your post. if you used the stock amp, that's your problem and why it's not night and day.
 
#68 ·
Soo.. I called my connections in NJ to get opinions, and I can do all but the rear deck, installed for under $400 using Memphis. They also agreed that it would be real tough to track down a good Free Air set of subs, and removing both 8's and putting something in the trunk would be the best bet..

I called my spot down here in NC and THEY said to use components in the front, and to just disconnect the center channel.. WHAT!? Has anyone heard of a stereo shop telling you to straight disconnect the center channel???

Anywho... I'm thinking about either going with Kicker for everything and maybe doing some custom enclosures to put up under the rear 8's to help with the free air issue.. OR... Doing the same and sticking with Memphis. I had the PR series in my TBSS and LOVED it.
 
#96 · (Edited)
everything they told you has already been posted in this thread by me and others. The center channel unplugging alone has several threads on it. It will sound better without it. Most rides dont even have it.

Not off the stock stereo without amplifiers and aux converters.
this is not true. the ohm rating of the speaker only means you'll have to unplug/replace your center and turn the volume up more. So when 25 used to be your max. Now it might be 30. there is a cutoff and something like a req-5 can help with that but it's only really an issue if you add an amp.

Blah, blah, blah? Geez I didn't realize I was spewing crap I thought I was helping people, I'm sorry man. :( I know you're a pro at this stuff and I'm far from being one, but IMHO I think my car sounds fantastic!

If anyone else has been offended by or feel I steered them wrong I apologize and will defer any further questions about car audio to Dan as he is a professional and much more qualified to answer any audio questions anyone on this board may have. Sorry Dan hope I haven't messed up anyone and best of luck.
i would argue that unless you have tried components up front and compared them to a ride with stock tweeters or coaxials, you really have no grounds to post how you did. It came off as if he shouldn't worry about it, but you didn't explain why or that you tried it and didn't like it. As others said, please keep contributing, but just make sure you word your advice carefully as all.
 
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#69 ·
blah blah blah... 3db so for the front you turn them down so the tweeters in the dash aren't overpowered by the ones in the front doors while the rear doors tweeters are left turned up so they work as the factory ones did.
Don't run two tweeters per channel. Cut the Infinity tweeters or unplug the factory tweeters. Even if you turn down the levels, you will just create way more phasing issues by having extra tweeters. If these were components or otherwise higher-end speakers, I'd say unplug the factory tweeters, but with speakers at this level it shouldn't make a huge difference which tweeter you use, but one is definitely better than two in this case.

Also, tweeters in the rear should be cut (for rear fill) or turned down a good bit (for rear fill and for rear passengers).

Higher frequencies are MUCH more subject to phasing and reflection issues, which is why I am specifically calling out dual tweeters as a bad idea.
 
#70 ·
HELP!!!! The place I ordered the 62.9s from called me and said they'd like to offer me the Kappa 652.9i speakers instead as they can't fulfill the order. The first place I ordered from had issues with my Canadian credit card and by the time it was sorted out they had sold out of the $66 set ;-(

Are the 652.9i speakers going to do the same thing for me? I only have an hour or so to make up my mind so a quick response would be awesome!
 
#71 ·
A quick Google search seems to tell me that the 62.9 replaced the 652.9, but I am not 100% sure there. They will likely be similar. I am not an Infinity fan personally, but if one made you happy, the other should too.

Sizes @ http://us.infinitysystems.com/tl_fi...Kappa/9-Series/682.9cf/KAPPA682-9cf_OM_EN.pdf. Dimensions are very similar. Both will physically fit it looks. Mounting ring is a little different though.
 
#73 ·
I'm not sure either are correct. Looked at the datasheet I previously linked a little closer. It does not indicate the same thing I read from caraudio.com (that was the only result that seemed to answer the question I typed)

Thiele-small parameters are pretty similar. Mainly sliiightly different suspension compliance.

Looks like the 652 is technically a metric-sized speaker and the 62 is US sized but there are very minor differences. I think mainly just the mounting ring. I would expect them to be close enough to both work. But the 652 miiiight be a little bit tougher to use with the stock bracket. Tough for me to say. I don't use the stock speaker bracket, and I won't even be installing the stock bracket for the stock speakers when I stockify my car soon to trade it in. I barely remember what the thing looked like.
 
#75 ·
Just ordered an amp that has speaker level High inputs and RCA low level inputs. For ease I would prefer to simply use the speaker leads from the subs as opposed to finding the pins on the stock wiring plug on the stock amp. Any negatives to using the speaker level inputs. Would be easier in my opinion...

Any one here remove and use the speaker leads from the subs and use them to go into the speaker level inputs on an aftermarket amp?
 
#76 · (Edited)
You still need a remote wire with the vast majority of amps, which means you still need the PAC SOEM-T or whatever to generate it. Either that or you can mess around with other ways to find a 'quasi-remote' wire, but I don't recommend tapping that reverse camera wire that some people do. Check the manual for your amp to see. And what amp is it?

Yes you could grab the signal from the subs, though. They will be lowpass filtered by the stock amp. They will go through an extra amp (again, the stock amp) before they get into your amp so there will be some extra distortion from the longer signal chain, but it shouldn't be a problem.

I don't particularly recommend running stock subs with an aftermarket sub (though it's much less bad an idea than dual tweeters). You may or may not have/notice phase issues depending on the specific setup. In the worst case, phase issues can lower the output significantly by the waves canceling each other out, or this can happen at some frequencies but not others, or it can every vary wildly just by moving your head slightly, etc. Again, it's worst with tweeters, least bad with subs, but possible with all. If you were talking of removing the stock subs and rerouting the wires for them, that should be 'good enough' also.
 
#77 ·
In the past I have always grabbed a remote signal from the fuse panel in my other cars for the remote on/off. I plan to do the same for this one. I have read a few posts with other ideas...but I think finding a ignition switched circuit at the fuse panel to be the easiest....except for running it to the back of the car to the trunk. but that is no big deal. Thoughts on this type of remote on/off?

Thanks.
 
#78 ·
.but I think finding a ignition switched circuit at the fuse panel to be the easiest....except for running it to the back of the car to the trunk. but that is no big deal. Thoughts on this type of remote on/off?
Generally a good enough solution. Only thing is if the amp or something in the signal chain messes up and starts playing a REALLY LOUD noise that shouldn't be there on your speakers.. you would have to turn the car off in order to stop it, not just the radio.

Still, I've been doing car audio for a little over 10 years, and I've only had amps fail like that once or twice.
 
#79 ·
Dandragonrage, I think the PAC SOEM-T like you recommended is the best solution. I ordered one. It solves the remote on/off requirement my amp has...and also, I have rethought my desire to use the speaker leads going to the subs from the stock amp. I will use pins 1,2,6, & 7 like others have done. That is just a cleaner install. Thanks for the help.
 
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