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Old 06-10-2010, 12:54 PM   #1
rez0nance
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Post Bulb List for LED Swaps

Given that bulb numbers are requested constantly, and the Sylvania list is (or was) unreliable for our cars as they listed some incorrect or proprietary numbers, finding out what bulb numbers you need is a bit painful and currently requires a lot of searching around (I know from experience). Therefore, I figured I'd make a central list with all the numbers I have tracked down, as well as whether or not they are confirmed to work. I included a zipped Excel spreadsheet that I made for this which might be easier to read.

Mods, if you could sticky this, I'd appreciate it.

If anyone has numbers for any other bulbs I missed, or sees any mistakes in the list, let me know and I'll update the post.

Format:
[Bulb name]: [bulb number], [quantity needed (individual bulbs)], [Color (stock)], [Confirmed to work?]

Starred (*) bulbs require a resistor (6 ohms on each bulb) to be installed in order to avoid hyperflash, brake release blinking, output degradation, and other unsavory side-effects.


Exterior Bulbs:
  • Backup/Reverse: 1156, 2, White, Confirmed
  • Brake: 7443/7440, 2, Red, Confirmed
  • License plate/Tag: 194, 2, White, Confirmed
  • Sidemarkers (under headlight on front bumper cover): 194, 2, Amber, Confirmed
  • Side repeaters/fender turn signals (behind front wheels): 194, 2, Amber, Confirmed
  • Front turn signal: 1157, 2, Amber, Confirmed , *
  • Rear turn signal: 1156, 2, Amber, Confirmed , *

Interior Bulbs:
  • Dome lights: 194, 4(sunroof)/2?(no sunroof), White, Confirmed
  • Trunk (also Glovebox, Center console): 211, 1, White, Confirmed

PLEASE BE AWARE THAT MANY SITES (SUCH AS V-LEDS) SELL MANY BULBS IN PAIRS! DOUBLE CHECK HOW MANY BULBS YOU ARE BUYING SO YOU DON'T ORDER MORE THAN YOU NEED!

If you are going to add a glovebox light (or if your '08 G8 has it and you're going to swap it to LED), or a center console light, the same bulb type as the trunk light will work.

I've confirmed all bulbs except for the brake (which are on the way to me) and license plate lights, but these have been installed by others on the forum before and I got the bulb numbers from them. Edit: Confirmed by other members. Edit 7/29: Brakes confirmed by me as well.

I believe non-sunroof cars have 2 interior bulbs as they lack the map lights... If anyone that owns a car sans sunroof can confirm I'll update things.

I will update this OP as needed.
Attached Files
File Type: zip g8leds.zip (4.6 KB, 444 views)
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Last edited by rez0nance; 07-29-2010 at 01:16 PM.
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Old 06-10-2010, 02:23 PM   #2
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i have the 7443 bulbs installed for my break lights.

only bulbs u sihould be gettin from v-leds are the dual white/amber ones. they are way over priced and u can find most other bulb types on ebay for 1/10 of the cost
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Old 06-10-2010, 02:44 PM   #3
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Lic. Plate bulb is indeed a 194 bulb.

Anybody looking for a set let me know.
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Old 06-10-2010, 03:16 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scorpious View Post
i have the 7443 bulbs installed for my break lights.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 5litrarag View Post
Lic. Plate bulb is indeed a 194 bulb.
Thanks guys, I'll update both the OP and XLS to show those as confirmed.
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Old 06-10-2010, 09:31 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5litrarag View Post
Lic. Plate bulb is indeed a 194 bulb.

Anybody looking for a set let me know.
Tanks all for the info. Stangster in N. Pomona...hmmm...I'm not to far from you.-LT
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Old 06-11-2010, 11:58 AM   #6
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Just a thought, but wouldn't the side repeaters need a resistor as well?
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Old 06-14-2010, 10:22 AM   #7
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Just a thought, but wouldn't the side repeaters need a resistor as well?
Sorry for the delay, been a hell of a busy weekend...

No, the side repeaters do not require resistors. They will not hyperflash when swapped for LED bulbs.
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Exterior: 3M 20% CS Tint; TSS custom darts; splash guards; Roto-Fab engine bay; Klearz sidemarkers; Spencers 5000k lows/3000k fogs
Misc.: Billet Prototypes catch can; full V-LEDs LED swap
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Old 06-14-2010, 10:31 AM   #8
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Anyone know how many resistors per side and ohm's we need? 2 per side?

I'm looking to change the rear turn signals to LED red, and don't know if a 3ohm or 6ohm load resistor is required...
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Old 06-14-2010, 11:33 AM   #9
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Anyone know how many resistors per side and ohm's we need? 2 per side?

I'm looking to change the rear turn signals to LED red, and don't know if a 3ohm or 6ohm load resistor is required...
You'll need four resistors total, all of them 6 ohm.

Yes, the website says you can use 3 ohm if you're doing both front and back... except that assumes the car has electronic flashers. Our cars do not have flashers, the BCM controls the flash rate, and the circuits seem to be independent. You'll need 6 ohm resistors on each turn bulb to keep the BCM from thinking it's a dead bulb.
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Exterior: 3M 20% CS Tint; TSS custom darts; splash guards; Roto-Fab engine bay; Klearz sidemarkers; Spencers 5000k lows/3000k fogs
Misc.: Billet Prototypes catch can; full V-LEDs LED swap
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Old 06-14-2010, 11:34 AM   #10
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I have those same bulds for my tail lights but they are very dim when turned on. What do I do to fix this?
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Old 06-14-2010, 12:25 PM   #11
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I have those same bulds for my tail lights but they are very dim when turned on. What do I do to fix this?
There are 3 different lights in each tail light. Which are you referring to?
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Misc.: Billet Prototypes catch can; full V-LEDs LED swap
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Old 06-14-2010, 01:06 PM   #12
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Oh, my bad. The 7443 led tail light buld.
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Old 06-14-2010, 01:09 PM   #13
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i plan to either hack the puter so the flashers are always slow or jus swapit with the hazards since they dont hyperflash
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Old 06-14-2010, 02:22 PM   #14
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Oh, my bad. The 7443 led tail light buld.
I haven't installed mine yet, but others have. If they're dim though, might be a bad bulb, or one that doesn't fit the application correctly.

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i plan to either hack the puter so the flashers are always slow or jus swapit with the hazards since they dont hyperflash
Installing the resistors is a piece of cake... Especially compared to any of those options.
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Misc.: Billet Prototypes catch can; full V-LEDs LED swap
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Old 06-14-2010, 06:08 PM   #15
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They are the right bulb, and they work fine. I think I need some capacitors installed but I do not know what size I need to give them that extra push. I have the 50w capacitors from Super Bright LED's that I ordered a couple of years back and I would use them only as a last resort. The reason being is that they get real hot when in use. I'm not too comfortable with that.
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Old 06-14-2010, 06:18 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rez0nance View Post
I haven't installed mine yet, but others have. If they're dim though, might be a bad bulb, or one that doesn't fit the application correctly.



Installing the resistors is a piece of cake... Especially compared to any of those options.
i know there ez to install but for a more clean look and not have to worry bout hte heat issue of the resistor the hazards options would be the best and almost undectable if ur car goes in the shop they can void ur electrical system warranty
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Old 06-14-2010, 06:44 PM   #17
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So is there an advantage to going to LED's? All you are really doing is reducing the watt load and have the approximately the same amount of lumens or is it for styling?
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Old 06-15-2010, 07:34 AM   #18
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So is there an advantage to going to LED's? All you are really doing is reducing the watt load and have the approximately the same amount of lumens or is it for styling?
Mainly for cosmetic purposes. They also have a longer lifespan than filament bulbs and are brighter. The fact that they use less power is just an added bonus.
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Old 06-15-2010, 09:40 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Donology13 View Post
They are the right bulb, and they work fine. I think I need some capacitors installed but I do not know what size I need to give them that extra push. I have the 50w capacitors from Super Bright LED's that I ordered a couple of years back and I would use them only as a last resort. The reason being is that they get real hot when in use. I'm not too comfortable with that.
Man, I'd just find myself a better/brighter set of LEDs before I resorted to going to capacitors... But that's just IMO.

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i know there ez to install but for a more clean look and not have to worry bout hte heat issue of the resistor the hazards options would be the best and almost undectable if ur car goes in the shop they can void ur electrical system warranty
Clean look? The places you'd install the resistor (on a frame rail in the engine bay, behind the carpet trim in the trunk) are invisible. There is no heat issue if you install it to a piece of metal, and even less if you use the brackets like the ones V-LEDs sells. For the engine bay ones, I stuck metallic duct tape on the frame rail, then used double-sided tape to stick the resistor on top of that. On the rear, since they go behind the trunk carpeting (even though the carpeting should never touch them), I'm using the brackets that completely encase the resistor to protect other components, and act as a heatsink as well. That will be stuck on with double sided tape to the sheet metal next to the tail lights.

If you do it right, there are absolutely no negatives to installing the resistor. Additionally, with the splices they come with, it would be impossible to void your electrical warranty, unless you completely bypassed the resistor with a straight piece of wire and shorted 2 wires, but then you'd really have to be trying to be a moron.

What would you be doing with the hazards? Rewiring the lights themselves? Besides being more complicated, it might not even be an option because the hazards might be entirely controlled in the BCM.

Quote:
Originally Posted by GoneUpInFlames View Post
Mainly for cosmetic purposes. They also have a longer lifespan than filament bulbs and are brighter. The fact that they use less power is just an added bonus.
Exactly. They have an extremely long life compared to filament bulbs, better color temperature (cosmetic), brighter in some applications, give you much more options to customize your lighting to your liking (such as the switchbacks on the front turns that switch between white for parking light mode and amber for turning signal - there's no way to do that without going to those LEDs), and lower the power draw.
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Interior: SAS/GTPprix Digital Gauges; Interior trim by CAA; Homelink-visor; Blendmount/Invisicord mounted V1/Dashhawk
Exterior: 3M 20% CS Tint; TSS custom darts; splash guards; Roto-Fab engine bay; Klearz sidemarkers; Spencers 5000k lows/3000k fogs
Misc.: Billet Prototypes catch can; full V-LEDs LED swap

Last edited by rez0nance; 06-15-2010 at 09:42 AM.
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Old 07-28-2010, 09:23 PM   #20
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Which bulb or company are you getting the 7443 bulbs from. How many leds should there be?
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