Hi all, I'm working on designing a clean, stealth install in my new car. I'm going to document the process to gain insight and opinions from you, the knowledgeable group of people I have learned to listen to. The system is a work-in-progress, and as such, it will change drastically as I go. Your ideas, solutions, and knowledge are more then welcome in this post! Criticism, notes, and complaints are all welcome, provided they are constructive. I have thick skin, so don't worry 'bout my feelings, and just say whats on your mind, OK?
That said, let me lay down the foundation of this project:
The car is a fairly rare one! The MAZDASPEED version of the Mazda 3 hatchback is unique in that it is a factory high-boost turbocharged car. 5000 total are slated for production. It is not a race car, but it can be raced, road course style, with little to no mods in the suspension. Much like the STi's and Evo's of this world. The car, like the STi Limited Edition, is a wolf in sheep's clothing, with 263HP and 280 lbs/ft of TQ. It has a unique interior, suspension, wheels, and body panels. With this in mind, I have chosen a stealth install, to keep the car under the radar, so to speak. This is my daily driver, so maintaining the utility of a hatchback car is one of the most important parts of this install, which means no amps mounted on the backseat, and no sub box taking up the whole trunk.
The system goals are simple - produce fantastic SQ performance with a nice SPL potential, all the while maintaining a stock-like look wherever prying eyes would dare to. This means that the stock HU will remain, so long as it doesn't affect the audio performance negatively. Time will tell if the stock HU has the ability to play cleanly to a set of LOC's, but I hope so! The dash is very integrated, and the steering wheel has audio controls. Notably, this car has one of those LCD panels located in the middle of the dash that provides readouts on the audio, A/C, and ambient temp. This means that removal of the stock HU would disable some of the display.
The other important part of this install is that I must utilize the factory locations of the speakers, which means no kickpods. The sail panels are where I plan to install the tweeters of a good set of comps (or active-fed separates), simply because buying a plastic sail panel replacement is easy. However, doors panels are not, so they will stay as stock as possible. That in mind, I'm open to any and all ideas, as I mentioned above.
The equipment that I've picked out thus far (and this list evolves constantly)
Audio Control Crossover (haven't picked a model yet), mounted in the glove box's cavernous storage space, making the factory HU's line outputs RCA's. Mounted in the G.B. to accomplish a close wiring connection from the HU's output wires, and to make minute adjustments in the crossovers and/or gains from the passenger seat.
Pioneer Premier components, Eclipse SC8264 comps, or DIY it w/ a nice, clean off-axis capable tweeter and 6.5" midrange.
Rears installed just for the hell of it, and to appease my passengers who will cram in the car, occasionally. (Please don't tell me to ditch the rears, this will be the first car I've owned that is a 4 door, and thus the first one that I've installed performance audio in the rear on, so while I do agree it does nothing for SQ performance, I just want to keep the passengers comfortable, k? K. I promise to leave them off when there are no passengers behind me. Pinky swear.
Subwoofer will be either the almighty linear motor SW8000 or its lil bro, the SW7000. Runners up were Diamond's D6, Polk's SR, and the Adire Brahma. According to WinISD, the SW8000 trumps them all, and reviews seem to show that the LMT woofers do put up amazing performance in both SQ and SPL. Since I have room for only one sub, and a 10" at that, might as well be one of the most cutting edge subs out there, eh?
Amps...ah yes, its been an internal battle to pick the perfect set. After much deliberation, I decided (so far) that the Eclipse XA4000 and XA1000 would be a nice combo. Why? Because their ICEpower technology (from the B&O boys) would leave my alternator happier, and the size and power of these guys, along with their ability to stay cool, all meet my needs. Runners up were Audison, Diamond, JBL, and Polk.
Wiring will be KnuKonceptz, because everyone I know who's used them likes them, and the prices are great.
Sound deadener will be B-Quiet, or Raammat, can't decide which.
Real Benefits of Acai Berry Product Types of Autism Statistics Facts