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Old 11-19-2012, 12:23 PM   #1
MSU120
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Default Balancer wobble.....

Well........looks like my balancer started wobbling. No strange noises but its clearly wobbling. To avoid any potential issues, Im gonna have it replaced with a Powerbond. Ive read other posts and there doesn't seem to be any issues with the accessories (AC, cooling, etc) not working properly.

If anyone knows otherwise.........please let me know.
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Old 11-19-2012, 03:15 PM   #2
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Many of us including myself have done the same swap for the same reasons. I went with the Powerbond 25%/10% (accessories/AC respectively) UDP with the updated Holden A/C bracket and all has been good for me. Everything else on the engine is stock so far except for my DC Power 270XP alternator, which still works very well with the UDP. My lights don't dim at all with it (they did with stock alt on stock HB) when my car audio system is on, though the 270XP was overkill for my system anyway which helps.

So yeah, all should be good with stock, unless you've got a system or otherwise want to pull a lot of current from the alternator at relatively low RPM.
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Old 11-19-2012, 05:33 PM   #3
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I believe I have one, the crank bolt, and belt that I won't be using. I forget which name brand though, but it's a 25% UDP.
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Old 11-19-2012, 06:54 PM   #4
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My balancer has a wobble and I'm considering the powerbond also. I plan on running around 1000 watts worth of stereo though, so it may not be the best decision for me.
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Old 11-19-2012, 11:49 PM   #5
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Anyone know how hard this is to do yourself? Any instructions anywhere? Getting it done by the "pros" is WAY to expensive!!
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Old 11-20-2012, 01:00 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MSU120 View Post
Anyone know how hard this is to do yourself? Any instructions anywhere? Getting it done by the "pros" is WAY to expensive!!
I just replaced one for a customer.
His car had 66000 km's and only symptom was wobble.
You do need the correct puller & new bolt.
You have to fit the new balancer with the old bolt, then remove the old bolt & fit new bolt for final tensioning.
There is no woodruff key, the balancer & crank are like a "cone" fit.
If you dont have the correct tools strongly recommend taking to reputable mechanic or dealer for repair.
You should only get charged one hours labour.....
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Old 11-20-2012, 01:08 AM   #7
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http://forum.***********/showthread.php?t=30435

and others...quick search will provide all of your answers.

If you do not have, or are unwilling to buy, the following - don't try this yourself.
3 jawed puller - a decent one. The HF ones tend to break
A way to hold the crank still - some use a screwdrive at the flexplate, some use other means. Read up on how others do it.
A longer metric bolt to start the new pulley on. As an alternative, you can heat the new pulley and press it on.
A new bolt is a must. These bolts are single use. Or get the ARP bolt, which is reuseable.
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Old 11-20-2012, 04:26 AM   #8
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puller:
otc 6667 otc 6667

install: Hawk LS Series Harmonic Balancer Installation Tool

flywheel holder: kent-moore J-42386-A

those (or equal homebrew) will get the balancer off/on
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Old 11-20-2012, 05:27 AM   #9
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Hey there guys!! I also have problem with the balancer it shakes very little. What should I do?
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Old 11-20-2012, 07:07 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yio110 View Post
Hey there guys!! I also have problem with the balancer it shakes very little. What should I do?
Replace it with the one mentioned in this thread. Or take it to the dealer for a stock replacement if you are still under warranty.
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Old 11-20-2012, 08:26 AM   #11
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To pull the stock balancer, go to Autozone and get the HB puller that is labeled for use with Chrysler. It works VERY well for our balancers. They have it for their "loan a tool" program. No need to buy one. It looks pretty similar to the OTC linked above. I didn't use any specialty tool at all for installation.
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Old 11-20-2012, 08:59 AM   #12
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What about the torque for the bolts? And do I need to buy new bolt?
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Old 11-20-2012, 10:25 AM   #13
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Stay away from HF pullers had one that broke on me the other day and I almost lost an eye.
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Old 11-20-2012, 10:57 AM   #14
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They difinately didn't quote me on hours worth of labor!
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Kooks 1 7/8 Mids with High Flow Cats, Borla Cat Back
ZL1 Fuel Pump, Kenne Bell BAP, 160 Degree T-stat
Camaro 3.27 Rear Diff, Livernois Tune
Monroe Sport GT Shocks/Struts with King Springs
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Camaro Transmission Pan
Staggered Bretyon GTS-AV Wheels, Nitto NT05 Tires
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Old 11-21-2012, 12:46 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yio110 View Post
What about the torque for the bolts? And do I need to buy new bolt?
One bolt only. Yes you need a new one (either a stock GM bolt, or the ARP 234-2503)
Torque specs are different. The stocker gets fully seated, then torqued to 37 ft-lbs. Then tightened an additional 140 degrees of rotation.
The APR bolt is torqued to 230 ft lbs.
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