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Old 11-23-2012, 01:34 PM   #1
mr_s_p
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Question Morimoto 35W or 50W

I am looking at getting the Morimoto HID system and put them on my car. As I'm looking for functionality and practicality, don't care so much about aesthetics...

In my pursuit of increased lighting on the road, I understand that 35W is much better then Halogen lights, even the Sylvania Ultra bulbs. However, 50W would be much brighter.

For the 50W, a couple of questions:
1. Do they put out too much heat or UV, causing damage to the light housing, lens or clear covers?

2. Even though I already have my top edge of my headlights down reducing the glare for oncoming traffic, is 50W going to be too bright for oncoming traffic?

While I do want to get the Morimoto HID system, I don't want to get the 50W if it creates more problems then have to purchase the 35W anyways...

Anybody's thoughts?

Thanks,
Scott.
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Old 11-23-2012, 03:38 PM   #2
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35w here and no issues..
Don't wish I went with the 50w.
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Old 11-23-2012, 04:32 PM   #3
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35 MoriMoto kit on mine. 55 creates to much cutoff glare. Not good for oncoming traffic. 55 does not help with actual light output on the road. One of the best mods you can do to a G8 is MoriMoto HID!


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Old 11-23-2012, 06:15 PM   #4
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I have 55W and I love them. Never once have I been flashed.
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Old 11-23-2012, 06:59 PM   #5
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35w does the job.
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Old 11-23-2012, 07:22 PM   #6
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Buy them now they are on sale
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Old 11-23-2012, 07:43 PM   #7
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Yessir.... I got my 10% off...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Back in a Pontiac View Post
Buy them now they are on sale
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Old 11-23-2012, 07:45 PM   #8
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Thank you all for your input...

I pulled the trigger on the 35W, 4300K H11 Elite system.
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Old 11-24-2012, 07:33 AM   #9
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warranty is great with TRS, send them a photo of the part you need disabled- like the ballast with the wire cut showing the serial number and they send you out a new one the same day
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Old 11-24-2012, 09:58 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Back in a Pontiac View Post
Buy them now they are on sale
If you dont mind me asking, where are these on sale? Also are the Morimoto kits comparable to other kits on the market (Philips, etc)?

Im ready to order a 35W 4300K kit...
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Old 11-24-2012, 10:19 AM   #11
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+1 ^
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Old 11-24-2012, 12:13 PM   #12
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Ummm, let's see if I can do this without making the gods angry... (Gods, if you see this, just helping a fellow forum buddy out)

the retro fit source... I'll leave it to you to put that *together* with the standard domain suffix... (com)

Quote:
Originally Posted by MeanGreenZ71 View Post
If you dont mind me asking, where are these on sale? Also are the Morimoto kits comparable to other kits on the market (Philips, etc)?

Im ready to order a 35W 4300K kit...
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2009 G8 GT Pacific Slate Metallic
Mods: Fuse panel for unswitched accessories. Passenger seat goes all the way back. Amplifier tweak for more bass. Trunk Liner. Auto-Dimming rearview mirror. Infinity Kappa 62.9i speakers in all 4 doors. Replaced standard Dome-Lights with Dome-Light with Map-lights (from a G8 Sunroof overhead console). HomeLink in my visor (Thanks, Snakey!!!). Changed the OnStar VCIM module to one that has Bluetooth. 4300K 35W Morimoto HID Headlights.
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Old 11-24-2012, 12:26 PM   #13
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when doing your install, have a look at this thread, post 7. When I installed mine few years back, I would have done this than drill the large hole.
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Old 11-24-2012, 02:45 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JCMG8 View Post
when doing your install, have a look at this thread, post 7. When I installed mine few years back, I would have done this than drill the large hole.
I outlined this in my install thread of the kit, it really doesnt take that much thought : "hmmmmm drill a much larger hole or just a little notch?"

Quote:
Originally Posted by Back in a Pontiac View Post
I had bought these on a black friday sale from the retro fit source. I have another vehicle that I did a full projector retro-fit splitting the sealed beams open and everything and was very happy with the quality of the kit and just as important the tremendous support you get from the guys over at TRS.

They will answer each and every one of your emails in a prompt manner, sometimes over the weekend too. The amount of time they put in to make sure you have what you need is incredible and welcoming in this ebay click and wonder where your stuff is coming from world .

Packaging photos, taking it all out, wiring photos. Drill your dust caps with a 7/8" and the grommets fit good and tight. I did have to notch the holes slightly to fit the large plug through, I chose to notch it slightly over making a larger hole and I'm glad I did. This was easy with a razor knife.

The wire outboard towards the fender for both of my lights was the positive lead, your lights may vary. I used the positive lug right on the fuse block and used a un-used stud a little further back for the chassis ground.

Install took maybe a hour with me taking my time. My goal was to put no holes in the car. I used structural urethane to hold the ballasts in place. I got the ballast mounting location from another thread here but I probably would have chosen the same spot- its perfect for it. The ballasts do come with a little mounting bracket should you choose to go that route.

I didnt have to cut or extend a single wire. I used their very high quality relay kit and currently have the DRL fuse pulled. My plan is to either re-route the fogs to be DRLs or if someone can confirm using their HIDs for DRLs if they have a heavy duty relay kit installed? I mounted the relays where I could see them and used a existing hole next to the headlight. If I ever take off my front bumper for something I may try to tuck it behind there somewhere.

I had read the HID install thread and it can sometimes become too much information to sort through, just going out to your car is sometimes the best course of action and you realize how simple things are.

I did turn the wheel one way, jack up the car a bit, and removed the clips holding the fenderwell liner but didnt remove it all the way. The drivers side was easy- just had to remove my SLP CAI. I routed the wires under the radiator brackets- again easy no tools required no holes. And when its tucked away you cant see anything.






















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Old 11-24-2012, 04:08 PM   #15
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perhaps I'm confused. The method described in the link I provided shows that you do not drill the large hole in the end cap at all. The notch is at the cap edge, right next to the sealing oring.
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Old 11-24-2012, 04:41 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JCMG8 View Post
perhaps I'm confused. The method described in the link I provided shows that you do not drill the large hole in the end cap at all. The notch is at the cap edge, right next to the sealing oring.
I was looking at the first photo, looked like a round hole with a notch

The lights in those pictures looks like 2 wires, the kit I used has more wires, thicker too.
Not sure I like the idea of the wires being pinched but it does look like a good idea, would also try to position the notch in a way you can put a dab of sealant on there after to make sure dust doesnt get in the lights.
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Old 11-24-2012, 05:00 PM   #17
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I would want someone to help me if/when I did this but has anyone considered heat-shrinking that area?
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Old 11-24-2012, 05:53 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mr_s_p View Post
Ummm, let's see if I can do this without making the gods angry... (Gods, if you see this, just helping a fellow forum buddy out)

the retro fit source... I'll leave it to you to put that *together* with the standard domain suffix... (com)
Thanks. I think I can figure it out.
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Old 11-24-2012, 05:54 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blitz View Post
I would want someone to help me if/when I did this but has anyone considered heat-shrinking that area?
You guys are putting to much thought into sealing that cap. The grommet that's on the wire harness will do fine at keeping moisture and dirt out of the housing. I just notched the hole also and the grommet still covers the hole perfectly.
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Old 11-24-2012, 06:13 PM   #20
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that grommet is pretty darn tight
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