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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-13-2019, 11:44 AM Thread Starter
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Auto accident insurance questions

So 2 days ago, I was hit in an auto accident (the other driver was cited for failure to yield to traffic) and my truck is going to get estimated for damage. With my auto background, I can tell that there's frame damage and parts alone are $900 (it's an older truck, so repo parts aren't that bad) not including ahipping or labor. The truck is a 1979, so they're probably going to total it.

My concern is that if it's the case, the mainstream "book value" is far below what I put into it. I was working on restoring it, and I was going to get classic insurance and have someone like hagerty insure it to make sure that it's assessed to its proper value. I was only halfway there. I have a stack of receipts to back up my work and value, but how much of a fight will I be in? How do people get to keep the check for repairs, but still keep their vehicle? I thought it goes to the repair shop to get fixed so the insurance company avoids just paying for nothing?

My ideal goal is that if it's totalled I want to keep whatever payment I can get out of the insurance company, but part out the truck and hopefully recoup some of or as much as I can out of my truck. Yes I know "you don't get back what you put in" but classics are usually a different beast. I had a lot of OE sheetmetal on this. If for whatever reason the truck isn't totaled and their insurance company is ready to send a check, how do I get to keep it so I can do the repairs myself? I've heard of "buying back" a vehicle, how does that work?

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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-13-2019, 01:27 PM
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You can 1) Try to make your case to the actual value of the truck by submitting receipts for everything and trying to find examples of similar trucks and their value. ie... try upping the value to where they will fix it. or 2) actually say nothing, accept the replacement value and by the truck back for a fraction of that value. ie... they cut you a check for let's say $3000 and you by it back for 10% of that. ie.. $300
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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-13-2019, 01:31 PM
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2) actually say nothing, accept the replacement value and by the truck back for a fraction of that value. ie... they cut you a check for let's say $3000 and you by it back for 10% of that. ie.. $300
The downside to this is you end up with a vehicle on a branded (salvage) title. No big deal if you keep it forever, but makes selling it in the future much more difficult.
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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-13-2019, 01:41 PM
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When I was in an accident with my old Bonneville, my insurance cut me a check for the total value of the car minus 9% so I could keep it. The accident does not show up in carfax, nor is there any mention of salvage on the title. That could be because I never gave the title to the insurance company because it was a couple hours away at my parents' house.

Showing receipts can help you get a higher valuation, for sure.

Tell them you want the check to only yourself. Some companies like to make it out to you and the shop you're taking it to, but I've never seen that as an actual requirement if you really press.

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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-13-2019, 01:43 PM
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Correct but it's up to him. I don't know how salvage values affect let's say the value of a restoration. As long as you document all of it.

How many let's say historic restored muscle cars probably have salvage titles and have been restored. I wonder how it's value has been affected.
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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-13-2019, 05:48 PM Thread Starter
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I appreciate the responses, folks.

Here's my situation, I have receipts for most of my work. This isn't a barrett jackson truck, but it's not a clapped out plow truck either. It's a solid truck with replaced drivetrain, chassis parts and a stroker engine. Bodywork has been done, but that was 5 years ago and it's my winter daily. So it's not mint, but it's still a solid and fun daily. If it was totaled and I was offered 5k for the truck, I'd take it and would wave goodbye to it (as painful as it would be).

However if I was lowballed (or neglected to give receipts to see how the dice rolls so I could buy it back for cheap) I would want to part it out depending on what I was offered. Is there a guaranteed rate as to which I can buy it back, or can the insurance company give me the squeeze? I also hear that there's no guarantee that you can buy a vehicle back either.

If it doesn't get totaled and I get a check for 3k or less, I'd just part it out and find another truck. Here's the catch. In Connecticut, I can not register nor insure a salvage titled vehicle, I would need to have it rebuilt(which I wouldn't do, I'd part it out).

I don't know if I should show my hand with all my receipts, or wait to see what they offer. I paid 3k cash for the stroker engine from a buddy, so I'm leaning towards not showing them my receipts and hope my truck as it sits can bring enough value to not be totaled. Parts alone right now is about $900(based on LMC and my own inspection of what was damaged), which concerns me a little as bodywork labor makes parts usually look like pocket money.

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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-13-2019, 06:37 PM
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The downside to this is you end up with a vehicle on a branded (salvage) title. No big deal if you keep it forever, but makes selling it in the future much more difficult.
You'd have to check locally on that....some places there won't be a salvage status put onto the title if you "buy it back", as the ownership doesn't technically change hands.

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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-14-2019, 07:11 AM
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Wouldn't show your hand i.e. mention the receipts until they provide an estimate of repairs or the amount of money they're willing to pay for the insurance claim. More than likely it would be the latter given the cost of restoring a classic vehicle to before accident condition can skyrocket relatively fast due to the proverbial limited availability of parts. Regarding the salvaged title, have watched countless restoration shows with obviously salvaged vehicles in deplorable condition. The shop will have it for awhile and then sell the vehicle oftentimes for an exorbitant amount of money. The new owner is as giddy as a maggot on a bird when driving away. Point being, many people to some degree or another expect a fully restored xyz to either have a salvaged title or to have been heavily repaired/damaged. Obviously, there are exceptions to the rule. Their main concern is it reliable, driveable, safe and how cool will I look in it while cruising down the boulevard. Of course, more modern vehicles are another thing given their complexity. Over the years, have purchased various items from LMC truck, but have found cheaper alternatives elsewhere. In my very humble opinion, some of the things they sell quality wise are better suited for show trucks versus daily drivers. There is no guarantee when dealing with insurance companies as each operates a little differently and much of it is contingent upon the estimate adjuster. By the way, did the other driver have current insurance on their vehicle?

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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-14-2019, 11:33 AM
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When it comes to the "Other" insurance company doing the evaluation. Find as many bills as you can . Doesn't matter if they use Autosource, CCC or JD Power in Mitchell. You want them to rate the vehicle as mechanically "well maintained" and the body and interior as "good or above average". Then you will get a fair market value for your truck.

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post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-14-2019, 05:27 PM
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Lesson learned: Put that much money into a 40 year old truck and you better have a professional written appraisal or you are in for a fight, one that you will tire of and lose in the end. Insurance agent here. Take the money they offer you and move on with your life. Lesson learned. As for the vehicle not being totaled: If you accept a check that is based on a total loss then legally the vehicle is totaled. From now on when you insure it you must notify the agent in writing that it has been paid as totaled whether it shows up or not. Why? I know you will, but if you don't and it ever comes to light that it was totaled and you did not tell them that is called a material omission of fact. Based on your omission they can refuse to pay any future claim you may have, on any car on the policy, if they find out. At best they will DEFINITELY cancel your policy because of your self-serving omission of fact, going back and cancelling your policy on its start date and return all premiums to you as if you never had insurance. Let's say you just had an serious at-fault accident, or your wife did, ran into a van full of attorneys. Just when you needed A TON of insurance (you don't have enough, and are under-insured now, like 95% of all drivers), you find out that you don't have any insurance and the future judgements against you will ruin you for life.

So will carrying the minimal liability limits you carry now.


At worse you are going to jail for insurance fraud for misrepresenting the truck as not being totaled. Allowing it to be represented in the future as not totaled when you know it was paid as totaled makes you liable for your inaction to correct its characterization to the company. A lot at play here. Better to be careful and honest. When you get the certified letter that you are being sued, then you will understand that there is no such thing as having too much insurance.

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post #11 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-14-2019, 08:25 PM Thread Starter
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Wouldn't show your hand i.e. mention the receipts until they provide an estimate of repairs or the amount of money they're willing to pay for the insurance claim. More than likely it would be the latter given the cost of restoring a classic vehicle to before accident condition can skyrocket relatively fast due to the proverbial limited availability of parts. Regarding the salvaged title, have watched countless restoration shows with obviously salvaged vehicles in deplorable condition. The shop will have it for awhile and then sell the vehicle oftentimes for an exorbitant amount of money. The new owner is as giddy as a maggot on a bird when driving away. Point being, many people to some degree or another expect a fully restored xyz to either have a salvaged title or to have been heavily repaired/damaged. Obviously, there are exceptions to the rule. Their main concern is it reliable, driveable, safe and how cool will I look in it while cruising down the boulevard. Of course, more modern vehicles are another thing given their complexity. Over the years, have purchased various items from LMC truck, but have found cheaper alternatives elsewhere. In my very humble opinion, some of the things they sell quality wise are better suited for show trucks versus daily drivers. There is no guarantee when dealing with insurance companies as each operates a little differently and much of it is contingent upon the estimate adjuster. By the way, did the other driver have current insurance on their vehicle?
I appreciate the input, I think I will wait and see how the cards fall before I show them receipts.


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Lesson learned: Put that much money into a 40 year old truck and you better have a professional written appraisal or you are in for a fight, one that you will tire of and lose in the end. Insurance agent here. Take the money they offer you and move on with your life. Lesson learned. As for the vehicle not being totaled: If you accept a check that is based on a total loss then legally the vehicle is totaled. From now on when you insure it you must notify the agent in writing that it has been paid as totaled whether it shows up or not. Why? I know you will, but if you don't and it ever comes to light that it was totaled and you did not tell them that is called a material omission of fact. Based on your omission they can refuse to pay any future claim you may have, on any car on the policy, if they find out. At best they will DEFINITELY cancel your policy because of your self-serving omission of fact, going back and cancelling your policy on its start date and return all premiums to you as if you never had insurance. Let's say you just had an serious at-fault accident, or your wife did, ran into a van full of attorneys. Just when you needed A TON of insurance (you don't have enough, and are under-insured now, like 95% of all drivers), you find out that you don't have any insurance and the future judgements against you will ruin you for life.

So will carrying the minimal liability limits you carry now.


At worse you are going to jail for insurance fraud for misrepresenting the truck as not being totaled. Allowing it to be represented in the future as not totaled when you know it was paid as totaled makes you liable for your inaction to correct its characterization to the company. A lot at play here. Better to be careful and honest. When you get the certified letter that you are being sued, then you will understand that there is no such thing as having too much insurance.
Thank you for your experienced input. As for the salvage/totaled issue, I have no intention of operating the vehicle as a salvage (In Connecticut I legally can't insure or register it anyway unless I rebuild it). If I somehow retained or required ownership, I would part it out and sell it as a roller (and disclose salvage) or scrap the remains.

While I have you here, can you tell me how the odds work or process goes of buying back a totaled vehicle. I hear there's no guarantee either?

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post #12 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-14-2019, 08:40 PM
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Be happy to. First, let them make you an offer. You want to keep the two transactions separate. So get their best offer first. Then ask how much they want to sell it to you for. Tell them no on the first offer. You haven't let them take it to their salvage yard have you? Bring it home immediately. It is still yours. Your possession of it gives you bargaining power. Do not let them have care, custody or control of it until you get a check in your hand.

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post #13 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-14-2019, 10:17 PM Thread Starter
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Hey Tony,

No, I still have possession of it. I already gave them a statement (admitting no fault, their insured was cited) and I'm currently waiting for them to review pictures I've sent them. They're trying to get in touch with their client and it's been a few days. The rep said that they're having a hard time getting ahold of the owner. I might be stereotyping, but since she was driving a 90's
Ford Ranger I doubt there was collision or comprehensive on it. I'm going to try to get a couple quotes on my own before they reccomend or at least ask if I could bring it somewhere. I want as much leverage/know how in my corner as much as possible. Who knows, maybe it's far worse or not as bad as I think.

Over the course of 5 years, I've spent close to 10k on the truck. Rims and tires, cab, bed and body panel swaps(mostly used or second hand), interior mods, trans rebuild, drivetrain and chassis parts paint and the stroker engine. Considering the only original parts on the truck are the axle housings, frame, leaf springs and radiator support, that's not a lot of money. However a massive amount of time has been put into it, probably hundreds of hours. Will I be taking a nice bath on this, or could I see a decent return?

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post #14 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-16-2019, 05:35 AM
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Unless things have changed, current insurance carrier doesn't write polices with comprehensive/collision coverage for vehicles over ten years old. Therefore, the G8 has only the state minimum coverage coupled with uninsured/under-insured motorists. Some might say it's a gamble, but life is a gamble. To my knowledge, the only exception is classic car insurance which am told is a completely different category. Over the years, driving habits have changed quite a bit and value life, health, and well-being a lot more. Am a firm believer in karma, and if someone(s) decided to file a frivolous, unsubstantiated, unwarranted, claim/lawsuit then more power to them. Reciprocity/karma is a humdinger and once set in motion, eventually comes back around in various forms. At the end of the day, most vehicles are depreciating assets (money pits) and under normal circumstances one will never be able to recoup most of the money invested. Would help to have an idea in mind of an acceptable figure or desired course of action with some negotiating room. If possible, definitely entertain the notion of purchasing the truck back and parting it out for sale or for future projects. Good luck

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post #15 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 07:51 AM
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State minimum. Know that by carrying state minimums most insurance companies won't even give you a competitive quote. If you only raised them to say 50,00/100,000 you could get quotes from more companies. Companies award better rates in the form of greater discounts to people who recognize their insurable risks and provide for them by carrying higher limits. Over a period of three to four years it ends up that you pay less money for these higher limits than you would had you carried state minimums. They sock it to you on the state minimums, but comparatively they give it away on higher limits. Cost per thousand on the higher limits is way way lower than on the per thousand on state minimums.

Besides, you plow into someone and you injure them and then they can only collect your paltry state minimum limits, because your view life as "a gamble"? Shows your disregard for others. Now they have medical bills they can't pay and its your fault. They'll get a judgement against you and you will become their bitch for life. Won't be able to buy or sell real property without giving the proceeds to the county clerk where real property is registered. Can't register it till the judgement is paid off. Guess who gets the money when you or your survivors sell your house?Your family will thank you.


Yep, life is a gamble that only the county and the attorneys win. Unless you develop strategies to transfer your risk. Buy some REAL insurance.

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post #16 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 08:13 AM
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See if you can get an appraiser out to do an appraisal of what they think it was worth before the accident. Get a written appraisal is the best strategy to maximize your claim settlement.

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PB: 12.533 @ 111.45 w/ 1.951 60' CLAIMING THE INTAKE/LT/TUNE/DR RECORD


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post #17 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 12:11 PM
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Not sure why the owner is involved. It's her fault and the insurance company should be talking to you directly. 1st offer is going to be a lowball. Only State Farm has offered me a good offer in the past. All others, I've had to resubmit for a counter offer.
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post #18 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 12:17 PM
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Am not remotely concerned about a competitive quote since insurance companies always seem to find a way to increase insurance rates. Was given the tripe about being a high risk driver because 1) you're single 2) under a certain age and 3) male. A paltry accident claim in nearly twenty years of driving... so much for being a high risk. Furthermore, car remains parked majority of the time and it seems a bit unfair to pay the say rate as one that is driven daily. Well... how would they know? Am more than willing to stop by the local office bi-monthly, send pictures, etc for odometer verification... problem solved. Inherently, the car being driven less often makes it less prone to being involved in an accident, vandalism, or theft. Oh did I mentioned it's garaged? Therefore, will continue to carry the state minimum coverage until someone offers to pay the premium in full every six months or year in perpetuity. Wasn't given a competitive quote by various agency's when the G8 was brand new and had all the bells and whistles a company can tack on a policy. Then in the event of an accident/claim, have to haggle with the company/adjuster just to get the car reasonably fixed near pre-accident condition. Been there, done that and might have the call logs to prove it. Ironically, they didn't have the same uphill battle for payment every month. Know too many homeowners that have expressed complaints about their insurance company. The overarching sentiment is they will accept your payment every month, but if you ever have to file a claim be ready for a battle. Obviously, there are expectations to the statement as I have yet to speak with every homeowner in America. The life as a gamble comment was taken completely out of context. In a criminal case one or more attorney "wins" and one or more "loses". Learned that by watching Dateline with Stone Phillips and 20/20 with Barbara Walters. Final comment, best of luck going forward to TheTransporter and sure to keep up posted on your progress.

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post #19 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 02:56 PM
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Unless things have changed, current insurance carrier doesn't write polices with comprehensive/collision coverage for vehicles over ten years old. Therefore, the G8 has only the state minimum coverage coupled with uninsured/under-insured motorists. Some might say it's a gamble, but life is a gamble. To my knowledge, the only exception is classic car insurance which am told is a completely different category. Over the years, driving habits have changed quite a bit and value life, health, and well-being a lot more. Am a firm believer in karma, and if someone(s) decided to file a frivolous, unsubstantiated, unwarranted, claim/lawsuit then more power to them. Reciprocity/karma is a humdinger and once set in motion, eventually comes back around in various forms. At the end of the day, most vehicles are depreciating assets (money pits) and under normal circumstances one will never be able to recoup most of the money invested. Would help to have an idea in mind of an acceptable figure or desired course of action with some negotiating room. If possible, definitely entertain the notion of purchasing the truck back and parting it out for sale or for future projects. Good luck
then time to get a different Insurance Company! I DD a 16 Year old car and have full Comp/Collision etc

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post #20 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 03:36 PM
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then time to get a different Insurance Company! I DD a 16 Year old car and have full Comp/Collision etc
I'll pass, dig a hole in the backyard and put the extra savings in a jar. Currently, am somewhat content with both insurance carriers and on numerous occasions have searched for more reasonable rates. Reasonable as in not paying as much/more to fully insure the G8 than an acquaintance is to insure a house and two vehicles. Where's the logic in that equation? Didn't comment/post on the thread in hopes of soliciting advice, but appreciate the input. By the way, daily driver is almost thirty years old and perchance it should have full coverage as well.

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