Evap Vent Solenoid fix DIY - Pontiac G8 Forum: G8 Forums - G8Board.com
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post #1 of 193 (permalink) Old 07-17-2012, 10:57 PM Thread Starter
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Evap Vent Solenoid fix DIY

Okay, after recently buying my car my CEL came on(P0449), sadly it turned out to be the Evap vent solenoid. Turns out that tons of other GM vehicles have this problem. I took the car to the dealer and was slammed with an estimate of $1000 to replace the vent solenoid. (I ended up taking the car back and paying the diagnostic fee ) After looking on the forums I found that some other members had this issue and could be resolved with out dropping the tank.

The part cost $15.00 shipped on Amazon. P/N :214-2147 (this part number worked for my 08 GT) 2009 G8's might have a different part number.
Links to various sites

https://www.acdelcodirect.com/produc...ystem/214-2147

http://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-214-2147-Service-Vapor-Canister/dp/B0031IBSDG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1382406665&sr=8-1&keywords=214-2147Time needed : 1-2 hrs ( took me 35 minutes)


Tools needed:
lug wrench
Jack and Jack stand
long Needle noise pliers
Flat head screw driver

Doing it this way requires you to work by feel since its in a weird spot. The pictures I took should give you a visual of what you are looking at.

step 1: Jack car up and take rear passenger side wheel off.
step 2: Locate the 2 hoses from the gas tank filler neck and disconnect
them. ( The plastic hose will have has two tabs that need to be squeezed in and pulled to take it out(see pictures)
step 3: Locate solenoid and disconnect electrical wire by lifting the tab and pulling down
step 4: Hold solenoid firmly and pull towards yourself to slide it off the bracket.
step 5: Using the long needle noise squeeze the hose clamp off the vent hose and pull off the solenoid. At this point the solenoid should be freed
Step 6: maneuver the solenoid out of the car (should come out where you took the filler neck hoses off)
Step 7: Reinstall in reverse order( I used a hose clamp on the vent hose for easier installation) A little bit of oil on the hose will help the install go smother.




Technical chat.
After taking out the defective solenoid I checked the Ohms and it was reading 10.9 ohms, The new one however was reading 22.0 ohms.

Also Your Check engine light might not come off untill 3 Cold start cycles (on star says up to one week), I happen to have a Scanner that I can clear codes with.


Hope this helps someone and questions feel free to message me.

PBM 2008 G8 GT #523

Last edited by TNTls2; 10-21-2013 at 08:58 PM.
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post #2 of 193 (permalink) Old 07-17-2012, 11:02 PM
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Nice writeup. Although I dont even have my EVAP connected and dont have any related codes. Odd...

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post #3 of 193 (permalink) Old 07-17-2012, 11:15 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks!

Hmm, thats odd lol, perhaps you took them off with Hp tuners or some other sort of tune?

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post #4 of 193 (permalink) Old 07-17-2012, 11:24 PM
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True maybe I did way back and forgot. I've deleted a fair amount of stuff.. easier then replacing it. haha

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post #5 of 193 (permalink) Old 07-17-2012, 11:26 PM Thread Starter
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Very true!!! If my CEL didnt come off that was my next step!

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post #6 of 193 (permalink) Old 07-18-2012, 11:27 AM
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I'm glad you got this taken care of. I had difficulty removing the filler neck hoses, so I lowered one side of the rear cradle. Either way will, as you've found, gives room to remove the solenoid. Also glad you had the right part number!
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post #7 of 193 (permalink) Old 07-18-2012, 12:35 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by todds87ss View Post
I'm glad you got this taken care of. I had difficulty removing the filler neck hoses, so I lowered one side of the rear cradle. Either way will, as you've found, gives room to remove the solenoid. Also glad you had the right part number!

Thanks for the help! I figured ill make a little diy for those who encounter this problem.. Part numbers matched perfectly.

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post #8 of 193 (permalink) Old 07-19-2012, 07:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Enginerd View Post
And regarding clearing faults OP - you can also do a battery reset/disconnect in a pinch.

Guess I'm wondering why this wasn't covered under warranty also since the OEMs are responsible for emission system components for 7 yrs/70k miles (IIRC)...EVAP solenoid switch falls squarely in that category.
I do not think it would have been covered...not sure why, but I did check this when mine went out at 59K.

And you cannot reset readiness codes by disconnecting the battery, only CEL faults. If you try to get an inspection and all (or most) readiness codes are not reset, you will not pass. And the drive cycle is a b**** to set readiness for the evap system. This is why some folks who do the battery disconnect to pass emissions still do not pass.
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post #9 of 193 (permalink) Old 07-19-2012, 07:42 AM
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part number



pic of the removed solenoid
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post #10 of 193 (permalink) Old 07-19-2012, 08:40 AM
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This needs to be a sticky for others in the future.

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post #11 of 193 (permalink) Old 07-23-2012, 03:54 PM
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solenoid change

I just did the swap and it worked, had to rely on feel for most of it like the original post stated but it worked and I saved $1000 in the process. The part I ordered from ROCK auto was slightly different, the canister was bigger, but I was able to switch the solenoid parts out. The canisters are empty? so I cleaned the old one.

All you need is zatarans crab boil and vaseline
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post #12 of 193 (permalink) Old 07-23-2012, 05:05 PM Thread Starter
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Glad this helped you !

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post #13 of 193 (permalink) Old 07-23-2012, 07:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GT Drew View Post
This needs to be a sticky for others in the future.
It's being watched.
The DIY section is read-only.
So before it's sent there we like to let the discussion progress and let some common questions surface.
Usually that means that the original post gets editted with more info or an additional post is made here in the thread for the same purpose.
With that in mind and depending on the interset shown, it's possible for this to be added to that section.

My personal opinion is that this is high on the list and a great thread.



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post #14 of 193 (permalink) Old 07-23-2012, 08:17 PM
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Isn't this covered by an emissions warranty for 100K miles?
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post #15 of 193 (permalink) Old 07-23-2012, 09:38 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Imalabil View Post
Isn't this covered by an emissions warranty for 100K miles?
Bill
Unfortunately I don't think so, I still have my emissions warranty and my power train warranty left and the service manager said it wasn't covered under either, which sucked because I had to pay $200 in diagnostic fees.

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post #16 of 193 (permalink) Old 07-25-2012, 10:01 PM
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That definitely does. I have had a code set when it's hot and then rains on the car. I think it has to do with the evap system or gas cap. The last time it happened I cleared it with my Cortex but didn't not the code, since it doesn't recur until the climatic conditions repeat themselves.
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post #17 of 193 (permalink) Old 07-26-2012, 06:42 AM
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I changed the gas cap prior to this and I also changed the evap solenoid located under the hood next to the oil fill tube. I wanted to make sure it didn't happen again and I think I spent $45 total on the 3 parts. I did take the old solenoid apart (under car) and the piston and its guides were corroded. I tried to move the piston up with a screw driver and it wouldn't budge! so it was definitely bad.The piston rides on a spring, has little plastic guides and a rubber seal around it, it looks like a thermostat.

All you need is zatarans crab boil and vaseline
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post #18 of 193 (permalink) Old 07-26-2012, 06:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Enginerd View Post
What is 'it' exactly? As in "the service manager said it wasn't covered"? Is 'it' a P0449 fault? A CEL? An EVAP solenoid switch? Please take the time to clarify with detail, it is important.

Because (and I'm not trying to jack this thread up, MODS - I'll gladly move/erase my comments as needed based on where this discussion goes) if ANY dealership is turning people away from emissions-related warranty work then that is something GM (and the EPA) would be VERY concerned to learn of, I assure you.

Please advise - anyone w/specific information and/or similar encounters w/their dealerships PLEASE chime in (PM me even if you don't want to clog up this thread)...I asked this earlier in the thread and no one payed attention to me lol

But guys - bottom line, this is a warranty item, as in emissions-system warranty (the EPA-mandated, un-voidable kind of warranty of 8yrs/80,000 miles). The fact that there is a DIY on changing this part is concerning (and the next mod that reads this - make sure this doesn't disappear when we go class-action on someone's ass to get these guys' money reimbursed!! Kidding aside - this actually is important )
I think people just don't want to deal with the crooked ways of a dealership, not to mention trusting another mechanic with your pride and joy. I can't afford to let my car sit at the dealership for a week, argue over a loaner car and hope it comes back fixed correctly. I have had so much bad experience with dealership service that I will do it myself if I can because I trust myself and my skills and if I work at home I available transportation in the event the car is laid up. plus the mechanics and parts people are just rude! I hate going their to order parts and have found that you can get AC parts new from rock auto and they ship it to your door.

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post #19 of 193 (permalink) Old 07-26-2012, 07:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Enginerd View Post
But guys - bottom line, this is a warranty item, as in emissions-system warranty (the EPA-mandated, un-voidable kind of warranty of 8yrs/80,000 miles). The fact that there is a DIY on changing this part is concerning (and the next mod that reads this - make sure this doesn't disappear when we go class-action on someone's ass to get these guys' money reimbursed!! Kidding aside - this actually is important )
Not sure of your point…if folks are doing it themselves (and it seems they are), isn’t it nice that there is a DIY? If your logic held, there would be no DIY for lifters, LCAs, Strut mounts, blah, blah, blah.
My reasons for doing it myself were twofold. If I have a catastrophic failure of the engine or trans, I will have to demod to get it covered (torque converter, cam, headers, tune, CAI, etc…). I do not take it in for small items that I can do myself for fear that I will have my warranty revoked due to mods.
The other reason revolves around the dealer experience itself. When I was researching this failure last year, I found that there was no part listed in the G8 catalog for the purge solenoid, and folks were telling me that the gas tank had to be replaced. I don’t know about you, but I hate replacing parts that are fine out of ignorance. I found in my research that the GTO solenoid fits perfectly, and is the same part number as the one I removed. Not sure the dealership would have done this, as I know at the time their instructions had them replace the tank. You may be saying “so what, it’s not my money”. Sure, but it is my time and anyone who has ever used a dealership for service knows, the less they touch, the better.

Are those good reasons for a DIY?
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post #20 of 193 (permalink) Old 07-26-2012, 07:58 AM
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I agree with Todd, DIY's are good for those who want to tackle doing something themselves. Not only do you save money (how much is the dealership hourly rate?) but you have a chance to learn and have the benefit of saying "I fixed that myself".

Just like I rotate my tires myself. Just like I do my own rotors and pads when the time comes.

Sure, some things may fall under that "warrantee" umbrella, however, as time goes on, and depending on previous GM dealership experiences, sometimes we're better off doing things ourselves. Yes.

I love this writeup and also think that with a little cleanup of the chatter it could be at home in the read only DIY section. OP: You have a PM.

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