Timing chain - Pontiac G8 Forum: G8 Forums - G8Board.com
 
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-02-2016, 01:14 PM Thread Starter
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Timing chain

So I'm thinking about getting a G8 v6. But I'm reading about all these timing chain issues and it's starting to worry me. I don't want to be buying a car then worrying about if the chain is gonna need replaced. Is it a problem that will happen ? Or is it a small percent? Many of the G8s I'm looking at are between 45,000-75,000 miles. I know when I bought my 2012 Traverse I was advised to avoid the 2009-2010 traverses cause of timing chains. What's your thoughts?
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-02-2016, 10:27 PM
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You sort of answered your own question, it is a small per cent that need replacing. Most will never need replacing.
My V6 has 182KM on the clock and no problems....hope I haven't jinxed myself....
Main thing is to keep the oil changed regularily, I use Mobil 1 synthetic 5W-30.
While I don't waste any time on the highways I'm not a stomper so how you drive dictates wear and tear also.
I don't worry about the timing chain personally, if you do you'll drive yourself batty, drive the car, if it breaks....deal with it.
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-06-2017, 08:08 AM
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I've had 2 G8 V6's.

The first one had 197K miles before I sold it with the original timing chain with zero issues.

The current one has 221K miles on the original timing chain.

In my opinion the timing chain issue comes from how the owner took care of it (oil changes, over heating due to low/no coolant, reving engine..)

Just my two cents.

2008 G8 V6: Eibach lowering springs, 18" staggered rims, K&N CAI, Series 4400 Flow Master axle backs with FlowMaster tips, radiator cover, tinted tails, silhouette of G8 third brake light.
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-06-2017, 08:30 AM
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I have always used MOBIL 1 FULL SYN 10W30 7qts plus 1qt DURA LUBE for a total of 8qts my car is a V6,I know the V6'S take 7qts in total but in my opinion that's not enough oil for the V6 lubrication system especially with the common coralation issue's with the timming chains.The system needs the extra oil,I purchased my car back in August 2008,I do my oil change and filter were done every 5k till I hit 60k then I started to use MOBIL 1 EXTENDED PERFORMACE FULL SYS 10W30 7qts still using the 1qt of DURA LUBE.I now change the filter only ever 5k and then the oil at 10k,my car now has a 123k,the under chassie is bone dry never leaked oil and NEVER HAD ANY CORALATION ISSUE"S.Remember you get what you pay for and as the other member's said OIL IS THE LIFE BLOOD OF ANY ENGINE.

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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-06-2017, 08:40 AM
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Dido on changing the oil filter. I too change my filter at the halfway point in the life of the oil (at about 1500-2000 miles). I typically change my oil between 3500 to 4000 miles and my oil is still honey-looking at oil change. I also removed that horrid engine cover because in my opinion it's just a big heavy blanket holding in the heat from the engine, unnecessarily increasing the engine temp on a hot 100 degree summer day.

2008 G8 V6: Eibach lowering springs, 18" staggered rims, K&N CAI, Series 4400 Flow Master axle backs with FlowMaster tips, radiator cover, tinted tails, silhouette of G8 third brake light.
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-07-2017, 09:26 AM
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Originally Posted by mrathell View Post
... I also removed that horrid engine cover because in my opinion it's just a big heavy blanket holding in the heat from the engine, unnecessarily increasing the engine temp on a hot 100 degree summer day.
Plus one

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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-07-2017, 09:58 AM
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While I'd like to believe it's mostly an issue of how a car is driven and cared for, I would say there is a small percentage of V6's that just do have the "heat soak" issue with the timing chain. Unfortunately I'm one of them. The 2009 car is my wife's DD and we've had it since new. I'm religious about the oil changes and it's had synthetic Mobil-1 from day-1. I don't believe my wife is tough on the car, but at 110k the CEL is staying on although we've noticed no change in performance or the way it runs, etc. I plan to do the chain (and probably the actuators) later this spring.

It sucks, but otherwise the car is solid and this should get me at least another 100k or more...

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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-07-2017, 10:49 AM
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Originally Posted by robtronics View Post
While I'd like to believe it's mostly an issue of how a car is driven and cared for, I would say there is a small percentage of V6's that just do have the "heat soak" issue with the timing chain. Unfortunately I'm one of them. The 2009 car is my wife's DD and we've had it since new. I'm religious about the oil changes and it's had synthetic Mobil-1 from day-1. I don't believe my wife is tough on the car, but at 110k the CEL is staying on although we've noticed no change in performance or the way it runs, etc. I plan to do the chain (and probably the actuators) later this spring.

It sucks, but otherwise the car is solid and this should get me at least another 100k or more...
Hopefully, will get around to starting a thread sometime this week, but a P0008 code doesn't necessarily equate to stretched timing chains. Had the light return within 30,000 miles after having the dealership replace the timing chains under warranty. Long story short, a reprogramming of the engine control module fixed the issue. General Motors has a bulletin out on other vehicles with the same engine that widens the parameters before the check engine light is triggered essentially allowing for some timing chain stretch as the original tolerances were too narrow. Will go more in-depth in the thread, but wanted to be relatively sure the problem was remedied before provided misleading information.

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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-07-2017, 12:19 PM
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I'm all ears!!!

2009.1 G8 GT w/Custom Chameleon (PPG) Paint
Permachrome OEM Sport Wheels
SV6 (Holden) Spoiler
SOLO Axle Backs
GXP Diffuser
Varaham CAI & Vector HSRK
Kooks Mids and a tune on the way!
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-09-2017, 07:49 PM
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base v6 code p0008 trouble code but engine drives fine but code wont go away
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post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-10-2017, 06:21 AM
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I would do a basic check of the cam actuator electrical connectors to make sure the wire's aren't chaffed or backing out of the connector I had a same issue when the car was at about 20k and the left side wire and connector need it to be replaced?

Year:2008
color:ignition orange;interior black leather
option:comfort and sound;premium package
new:august 2008 original owner
mods:20%window tint,6k led headlights and led fog lights,X-pipe,k&n air filter,hawk hps front and rear brake pads with r1-concepts premium series brake rotors
slotted and crossed drilled:general g-max as-03 tires;dvd in both headrest from myron & davis;auto dimming mirror.
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