Battery Ground Bolt (Read and check yours!!!!) - Page 2 - Pontiac G8 Forum: G8 Forums - G8Board.com
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post #21 of 46 (permalink) Old 11-13-2015, 08:37 AM
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Or undercoating or plastidip to seal it.

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post #22 of 46 (permalink) Old 06-11-2016, 02:02 PM
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So if I take the battery out of the trunk I will see this threaded bolt and nut? In engineering mode in the morning I have voltage charge at near zero. In an hour or so it is only up to 25 percent. Sears states the battery is in excellent shape, along with the alternator and starter. They told me to check grounds.

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post #23 of 46 (permalink) Old 06-11-2016, 04:51 PM
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So if I take the battery out of the trunk I will see this threaded bolt and nut? In engineering mode in the morning I have voltage charge at near zero. In an hour or so it is only up to 25 percent. Sears states the battery is in excellent shape, along with the alternator and starter. They told me to check grounds.
Once the battery is removed or replaced everything resets, so it will take a while for engineering to show better harvest state... Its also not very accurate to begin with. The bole is on the neg cable connected to chassis

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post #24 of 46 (permalink) Old 06-11-2016, 08:07 PM
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I worked on over the road semi trucks for years and corrosion is always an issue. Removing corrosion and paint off your ground is paramount to good electrical conductivity but you must reseal it from further corrosion. That being said I always would apply new paint over the area after making the ground connection. A lot of paint. Leave no where for water or air to get at it your bare metal connection and ruin it. Problem solved.


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post #25 of 46 (permalink) Old 06-12-2016, 09:52 AM
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What we need here is a pic of the installed bolt showing its location.

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post #26 of 46 (permalink) Old 06-12-2016, 10:07 AM
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Applying paint over a connection point that has conductive grease would be limited. Dow 33 is conductive silicon based grease that will repel water....and everything else. That's what I will go with although my ride only saw one winter with the previous owner. In reality, all grounded points in any electrical sys should be an alloy plated copper but next best is Galvanized steel. I will dead clean the bolt and apply galvanizing ( zinc ) spray before apply the 33 to seal it. Might as well go military grade to avoid a big source of trouble.

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post #27 of 46 (permalink) Old 06-12-2016, 10:08 AM Thread Starter
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What we need here is a pic of the installed bolt showing its location.
It's the 1 single bolt that holds the ground cable to the Chassis in the trunk. You can't possibly miss it.....follow the main ground off the battery the cable is only 1 ft long.

The bolt is exposed to the element under the rear driver side exhaust hanger & in my case it began corroding from the tip of the bolt on up in the the shaft of the bolt.
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post #28 of 46 (permalink) Old 06-12-2016, 10:11 AM Thread Starter
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So if I take the battery out of the trunk I will see this threaded bolt and nut? In engineering mode in the morning I have voltage charge at near zero. In an hour or so it is only up to 25 percent. Sears states the battery is in excellent shape, along with the alternator and starter. They told me to check grounds.
Dude, you don't need to remove the battery, you just have to pull the carpet area around the battery.

If you are looking directly at the battery, follow the 1 ft long ground cable on the left and that bolt that holds the ground cable to the trunk chassis is the bolt in question.

I would remove the bolt and inspect the bolt & the bore/thread. Replace the bolt, clean the ground area & see what happens.
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post #29 of 46 (permalink) Old 06-12-2016, 10:24 AM
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Quote:
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Applying paint over a connection point that has conductive grease would be limited. Dow 33 is conductive silicon based grease that will repel water....and everything else. That's what I will go with although my ride only saw one winter with the previous owner.
You're absolutely right. Use one or the other. Both ways serve the same purpose. Paint is better because it is a more permanent solution to grease of any kind especially when subjected to direct exposure to elements like water splashing or salt spray from driving in winter roads. Just like painting anything else your surface must be clean and dry first before it will adhere properly.

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post #30 of 46 (permalink) Old 06-15-2016, 04:47 PM
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thanks for this, mine took a little tightening up

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post #31 of 46 (permalink) Old 06-30-2016, 12:54 PM
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Is this the ground you were refering to? She's locked down tight. Any other loose ground ideas?
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post #32 of 46 (permalink) Old 07-01-2016, 08:11 AM
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Is this the ground you were refering to? She's locked down tight. Any other loose ground ideas?
Had to check mine again bolts on both cars look like from factory. No water stains at all. Not sure how other people are having issues.

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post #33 of 46 (permalink) Old 07-02-2016, 12:20 PM
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Mine was in perfect shape at 75k. Put some clear over the exposed threads for extra insurance. Maybe those who drive in a lot of salt have more issues.


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post #34 of 46 (permalink) Old 07-02-2016, 12:23 PM
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Mine was in perfect shape at 75k. Put some clear over the exposed threads for extra insurance. Maybe those who drive in a lost of salt have more issues.
My V6 sees snow every year.

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post #35 of 46 (permalink) Old 02-04-2019, 08:09 PM
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Just wanted to say thanks to OP wvg8gt.! I had 2 starters go down in 4 months. Both starters were from the dealer thankfully the 2nd replacement was covered under warranty. When the 2nd starter I thought was bad I started searching for possible issues. When I found this thread about negative cable body mount bolts I checked mine out. It was corroded and I ended up breaking the bolt so drilled it out and put a new bolt in and the car fired right up!! Thanks again for the tip better than the diagnostic charge at the dealer.
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post #36 of 46 (permalink) Old 04-24-2019, 04:40 PM
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What size is this bolt? Gonna buy a new one for my car. Starter clicked on my wife this morning.

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post #37 of 46 (permalink) Old 04-24-2019, 04:47 PM
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Might check and see if it'll even come out... my buddy had one that wouldnt even come out. If you can get it out I'd reccomend sanding the paint off the contact point and using dielectric grease to keep the rust off of it. Just my 00.2
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post #38 of 46 (permalink) Old 04-24-2019, 06:19 PM
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I expect it will come out... I dont think its been arching enough to melt it

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post #39 of 46 (permalink) Old 04-24-2019, 06:21 PM
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Don't know the bolt's size, but the part number appears to be 92190434 cable stud. However, someone will have to confirm the part number.
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post #40 of 46 (permalink) Old 04-24-2019, 10:33 PM
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Oh man, just want to say thank you to this post. I've been having the electrical issues described and tried a number of things from other posts that didn't seem to work. I'd resigned to it probably being a starter issue and was ready to head to the local dealer. Was checking a few details on that and ran across this page. Popped the bolt out, cleaned things up and put the new bolt in and all seems to be significantly better now (especially when looking at the old bolt...it's no wonder I was having problems).

For the record, was having the click-click no start, slow cranking, dimming lights, and limp mode problems. Still in the cautiously optimistic stage, but when it fires with enthusiasm (that's what it seems like relative to what it was) several times in a row without doing the click-click fun, you get a good feeling about things.

Thanks again, so excited to have my car back!
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