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post #1 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-14-2018, 04:42 PM Thread Starter
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Another Low Tire Pressure/TPMS Thread

So, after hours of reading hundreds of threads about faulty TPMS sensors and random low tire pressure threads I was still unable to find anyone that had the exact problem I am having. I get a Left Rear Tire low pressure light after about 15-25 minutes of driving. When I scroll through to see the psi on the DIC it says it's at 1 psi. The tire isn't actually low by any means. In engineering mode it also shows 1 psi, not 148 like others have had. I had my roommate take my G8 to work with him to use their computer to relearn/test the TPMS and everything worked flawlessly. What could be the problem? Does the low tire light have to be on during the relearn process for the computer to recognize the fault? Why does it say 1 psi instead of 148 or -- like everyone else who has had a bad TPMS?

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post #2 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-14-2018, 06:55 PM
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I don't have the exact answer >>>> I've never had the luck of *only* getting one tire showing a problem. I never get *just one* tire showing --- or the 148 in the engineering mode. I get a total system dropout only at night, an see --- at all 4 locations on the trip page. An only when in a specific area on 2 different freeways very near my house. In the morning, everything is back to normal. It has reacted this way for at least a year now. It happened with the original, an now the new TPMS sensors installed. I'm being overpowered by some signal being generated from somewhere near those areas. Losing only the LR position, my guess is that (that) sensor has an internal problem that wants to show up once the tire has been heated up a certain amount. You could prove or eliminate this thought, by reversing the 2 rear tires, an reprogramming again. Then see if it wants to report the RR having a problem.
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post #3 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-14-2018, 10:11 PM Thread Starter
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I just tested the theory about it happening at the same place every time and that’s not the case for me. Does your light go off after you pass through the “dead zone?” Mine seems to be entirely random. It doesn’t stay on for the same length of time, doesn’t happen at the same place or have a pattern. Switching the tires sounds so simple that I can’t believe I haven’t thought of doing it before!

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post #4 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-15-2018, 07:24 AM
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Generally speaking, the life expectancy of a tire pressure monitoring system sensor battery is +/- nine years, however, actual battery life is dependent on a variety of conditions. Having said that, if the sensors have yet to be changed then it's probably almost time to do a full set. As mentioned, try swapping two wheels around, relearn all four wheels and see if the low pressure signal changes location. Would venture to say there is some sort of malfunction with that particular sensor since an unusually high or low sensor tire pressure reading typically skews that direction. Furthermore, why would the body control module be able to communicate and accurately display the tire pressures of the three other wheels, but yet have a problem communicating with this one? At an rate, if you determine a new sensor is needed, then would recommend replacing all four along with new tire valve stems if the other three haven't already been replaced. Doing all the four at the same time prevents the likelihood of having to repeat the same procedure time and time again with the other three wheels. However, if money or some other constraint doesn't afford such a luxury, a fellow board member has a partial set of sensors and valve stems for sale here https://www.g8board.com/forums/30-par...oem-stems.html. At any rate, best of fortune getting your problem resolved.

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post #5 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-15-2018, 11:49 AM
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When I get the TPMS fault condition, the tire icon goes into the flashing mode, chime sounding off, along with the DIC displaying a tire fault condition. That action also causes the digital speed readout to cancel (very annoying). I immediately press the left scroll wheel to acknowledge the condition, which minimizes it to the bottom of the DIC an returns my speed readout. After 1 minute, the flashing tire icon reverts to a steady display. I'm thinking, that if I were to continue driving for awhile (anywhere away from those known bad areas), the system would re-establish itself by transmitting a good signal from each of the sensors in the rolling mode. But I'm so close to home by this time, I just park the car in the garage, knowing all will be correct in the morning. I continue trying to figure out *what* businesses in those areas are causing this problem (but knowing all along), I'll never get it figured out.
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post #6 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-15-2018, 02:25 PM Thread Starter
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I see. Mine doesn’t blink or anything that suggests a TPMS fault other than a false low tire. Also, I’m a stickler about preventative maintenance so I plan on change the TPMS sensors soon anyway, but I don’t want to change them now until I figure out why it’s giving me this light sometimes for the fact that I don’t want to spend a ton of money during a trial and error. Maybe it happens when my phone gets a certain notification or a bare wire somewhere is making a random connection, I have absolutely no clue yet so im going to do the rear tire switch idea first and see what I get and go from there. I will post on here my findings as they progress. Thank both of you very much for your responses!

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post #7 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-15-2018, 05:10 PM
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I had one that would go to 1 and then back, and then 1 and then back... then it would go from 1 to a zillion and back, then apparently it gave up the ghost. I paid the shop that put my tires on a few years back to do a TPMS rebuild, which was supposed to include batteries, but apparently not... good luck!
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post #8 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-16-2018, 07:42 AM
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I started getting the "Tire Pressure System Fault" display and blinking icon (like Gopherit)on every startup. I'm sure its the batteries as I had to change sensors on an 08 truck a couple years ago.

I can minimize the message and stop the blinking icon by hitting the scroll wheel on the left side of the steering wheel. I don't feel like dropping $200 for new sensors so I'll live with it for now (that's what it cost me for the truck sensors installed).
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post #9 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-16-2018, 10:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by afgun View Post
I had one that would go to 1 and then back, and then 1 and then back... then it would go from 1 to a zillion and back, then apparently it gave up the ghost. I paid the shop that put my tires on a few years back to do a TPMS rebuild, which was supposed to include batteries, but apparently not... good luck!
As I understand it and have been told, there is not feasible way to rebuild a tire pressure monitoring sensor and it is much cheaper to simply replace it with a new one. Venture to say, the "rebuild" may have very well included only a new tire valve stem and torx head screw.
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post #10 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-16-2018, 11:43 AM
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I was under the impression that the batteries were not replaceable. I've had my hands on two sets, and they were sealed/non-serviceable.

Has anyone tried replacing a sensor in our 18 or 19 inch wheels at home without specialized tools? I've removed and reinstalled a set in wheels with much taller (235/55) side wall tires. My method of breaking the bead was with my wife's van on ramps, wheel/tire laying under the van, putting the scissor jack between the jacking point and the sidewall and cranking away. It was quick and easy. But I feel like it may not work as well with low profile tires.

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post #11 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-16-2018, 11:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PONY MAN View Post
As I understand it and have been told, there is not feasible way to rebuild a tire pressure monitoring sensor and it is much cheaper to simply replace it with a new one. Venture to say, the "rebuild" may have very well included only a new tire valve stem and torx head screw.
So I got ripped off is what you're saying...
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post #12 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-16-2018, 11:52 AM
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So I got ripped off is what you're saying...
Probably. Most tire places force a "TPMS service kit" on you for like $14 a wheel. They cost around $3 if you get them elsewhere.

All the sensor choices on Rockauto appear to be sealed types.

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post #13 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-16-2018, 11:59 AM
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So I got ripped off is what you're saying...
Unfortunately yes, more so since the new batteries failed to remedy the problem. Ironically, awhile ago a national chain shop [don't recall which one] tried to pull a very similar stunt and charge a fee per tire for a pressure sensor rebuild. Think they said it had to do with some of safety issue or some other tripe. At any rate, declined to have the work done, purchased sensors and/valves from a different place, and had everything installed elsewhere.

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post #14 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-16-2018, 12:01 PM
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Quote:
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Probably. Most tire places force a "TPMS service kit" on you for like $14 ...
That was the exact term they used and when pressed for specific information became defensive... smh.

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post #15 of 27 (permalink) Old 06-27-2018, 02:49 PM
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Has anyone replaced the sensors before? If so, how did you do it?

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post #16 of 27 (permalink) Old 06-27-2018, 03:22 PM
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Has anyone replaced the sensors before? If so, how did you do it?
It can be done without a tire machine but it's best to take it to have it changed at a tire shop.

Air will be let out of the tire and the tire around the valve stem section will be depressed/deformed with the machine while the sensor is replaced.

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post #17 of 27 (permalink) Old 06-27-2018, 05:42 PM
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Has anyone replaced the sensors before? If so, how did you do it?
Remove the tire stem valve core using a valve core tool. Then, unseat i.e. remove the entire tire from the rim or just the portion around the valve stem. The valve stem attaches to the sensor with a torx screw. Remove the screw and the sensor comes right off. Also, now would be a good time to replace the valve stems. Reverse the process and relearn the new sensor(s).

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post #18 of 27 (permalink) Old 07-11-2018, 10:29 AM
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Quote:
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It can be done without a tire machine but it's best to take it to have it changed at a tire shop.

Air will be let out of the tire and the tire around the valve stem section will be depressed/deformed with the machine while the sensor is replaced.
Quote:
Originally Posted by PONY MAN View Post
Remove the tire stem valve core using a valve core tool. Then, unseat i.e. remove the entire tire from the rim or just the portion around the valve stem. The valve stem attaches to the sensor with a torx screw. Remove the screw and the sensor comes right off. Also, now would be a good time to replace the valve stems. Reverse the process and relearn the new sensor(s).
Thanks for your help guys.

So, do you think that it can be done with the wheel on the ground, tire deflated but still on the rim? If so, what's your recommendation on how to depress the tire wall enough to reach the sensor?

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post #19 of 27 (permalink) Old 07-11-2018, 11:17 AM
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The last couple times I had a tire replaced, I told them I'd just recently swapped the valve stem and sensors, and they didn't try to push any TPMS service on me.

I've swapped sensors on a different vehicle's 235/55 R18s. Our G8's lower profile tires may prove a little tougher, but here's what I did:

First, note that this was a second set of wheels/tires with the valve stem core removed (a tool to do so is only a few bucks). The vehicle in question had a full set on it.

Drove the front of the vehicle up on ramps.
Placed a wheel/tire face up under the front jacking point, with the valve stem NOT directly underneath the jacking point.
Put the scissor jack in between car and tire near the rim of the wheel. I put a piece of dense foam between the jack base and the wheel rim to avoid damage.
Extend the jack, pressing down on the tire until the bead pops off. Sometimes, I had to rotate the tire some and do a second point several inches away for the whole bead to unseat.
After that, I used some pieces of scrap 2x4 to wedge the sidewall down away from the bead seat, exposing the sensor, and I was free to swap it at that point.

Remember not to position the jack aligned with the valve stem. You may end up snapping the sensor off when you are jacking and damage the valve stem. And retrieving the loose sensor/pieces could be a pain in the ass.

To reseat the tire, I spread a thin coat of soapy water around the bead with my fingers. I supported the tire (not the wheel) from underneath in a couple places with some spare wood and put my knees/weight on the face of the wheel. With my compressor regulator set to 100+ psi, it provided sufficient flow to get the bead to reseat.

Something else to note: I was using two-piece Race Ramps and I could pull the inclined part of the ramp out of the way. A one piece ramp may get in the way of the jacking point. You could put the front up on jack stands if your ramps don't accommodate this.

Actually, thinking back, I was in the middle of a saga of TPMS issues on my wife's van. I did work my way around the vehicle at one point, jacking up the corner, putting in a jack stand out of the way, taking the wheel off, going through the process I wrote above, one corner at a time.

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Last edited by J Wikoff; 07-11-2018 at 02:08 PM.
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post #20 of 27 (permalink) Old 07-11-2018, 12:43 PM
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In the past with summer and winter tires, they last a long time. When ever you replace the tires, I replace the sensors. At $50 to $60 a set on eBay. Why leave the old ones in?

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