Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Fountain Valley California
This is fun (in a way),but is sure tough on my eyes an mind. My read (at this time), is that the right rear window control switch is bad in the console. In order for the window to go down, the *up portion* of that up/down switch *must* go to a ground return for the window to go down. If the window were actually down a bit, I feel *it would go up* when requested. Take the door connector back off an set the meter up to look for continuity from pin #3 (D-GN) to a good ground source. If open is indicated, something has failed within that right rear window switch on the console. In the meantime I'll work on the door latch/unlatch problem while you test the above (if you want to). The more I read your posts, the more I have to re-read, an I think I'm messing myself up.
Added info----- All of the door lock an unlock action from the key fob an console happens thru the BCM. There are 3 relays used to make all of the doors do their thing. The lock relay (when energized), causes all 5 latch actuators to move to the lock position. You know that relay is good due to 4 of the 5 locks work correctly. One unlock relay is dedicated to the drivers an fuel door actuators. They work correctly, so its OK. The other unlock relay controls the remaining 3 doors. Since 2 of those 3 work correctly, it's OK also. Its probably not real easy to get to the door latch actuator connector. But to best eliminate the actuator itself, your going to have to do just that. Then look for 12 volts at pin # 5 (D-GN/WH) to a good ground source when pressing the LOCK button. If OK, test pin # 2 (BN/RD) for 12 volts to ground the same way when pressing the UNLOCK button.
Corrected wording as necessary at 8:08 PM local (hope its right this time)
Last edited by GOPHERIT; 07-15-2018 at 07:51 PM.
Reason: added info