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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-28-2019, 07:02 PM Thread Starter
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bottom rear doors: yellow plastic honeycomb?

Finally found the rattle that was driving me insane. It was inside the pass rear door. Under the regulator at the bottom of the door is a yellow plastic honeycomb piece. It looks like its held on with two screws. The bottom of it is lined with foam thats SUPPOSED to keep it from rattling against the metal door, dunno why but mine is rattling like crazy when I drive. I cant find this thing in the shop manuals so I dont know what its for, whats holding it on, or how to remove it.


I see two screws on the inside of the door going into it. Mine are rusted to hell I had lots of water inside the door until I figured out how to clear the drains at the bottom. I'm thinking I can either try and get something under it (foam peice? spray in foam?) or remove it.


Anyone know whats holding this in? Does it come out without effecting the regulator? If I had to drill out those two rusted screws just to see I'm skeered its gona be stuck under the regulator or there are other screws or bolts I wont be able to get to.


Anyone dealt with this?
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-28-2019, 07:38 PM
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Something tells me you might have to end up opening the passenger side, to get a good visual on what that thing does as well as how its attached etc. That's if nobody posts having worked with that item in the past.
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-29-2019, 12:19 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah I had the door panel off, but I can only see the top of the damn thing. I pushed it up best I could with a long screwdriver and shoved some foam under it. OMG the drive to work this morning was so quiet I think this has slowly been rattling more and more and I was just used to it. lol

Unless someone else chimes in that they dealt with it, the big decision will be to try and shove more foam under it and hope the foam never rattles out, or drill out the two rusted screws I can see and try and remove it and hope #1 it has no function with the window regulator #2 it comes out without having to remove regulator (boy that would suck) #3 there are no other attachment points that are hidden that are also rusted and I wouldnt be able to take them out.

Sigh.

Hm I never put the panel back on I bet I could take some pics at lunch.
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-29-2019, 12:59 PM Thread Starter
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Rusted screws that wont turn circled in red. Visually thats all I can see that holds it in.







You can see the foam I shoved under it







From the back of the door
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-29-2019, 12:59 PM
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Interesting because I am experiencing the same noise! I'll have to check that area. Thanks!

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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-29-2019, 05:49 PM
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your sig doesn't say where you are but if its a rainy area i would be concerned the new foam strips(insulation foam)would hold alot of water in place until it evaporates(weeks) and therefore rust the door in that area. also sounds like you should change the window moldings especially if you car lives outside. thanx for the pics though so we can all learn.
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-30-2019, 07:11 AM
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Can't see how the plastic box is impacting the window regulator as it should be attached with bolts versus screws. Didn't find the part listed on a diagram so cannot say its function nor purpose, but it appears both rusted screws are merely holding it in place. Alternatively, you could go to a local General Motors dealership parts department and see if they can locate it on a more through diagram. Could wedge a piece of wood or plastic behind it and probably achieve the same result as the foam. Or wedge it to hold it in place, remove the two screws, and install new screws. Keeping the foam in place could potentially impede water flow to the drain holes and create a different slew of problems. Good luck

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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-30-2019, 12:23 PM
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These are frequently used by OEMs for impact resistance. Reinforces the door in a weak area, saving the door from completely caving in if hit. I have also seen them used to reinforce doors because the force of the window regulator and motor causes some twisting on the inner door skin.

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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-31-2019, 06:06 AM Thread Starter
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The plastic thing seems to either be an impact barrier if you get hit in the door (like Funkster said) or some kind of weighted resonator to make the door sound more Mercedes like when you slam it closed. Pony- it doesnt seem to be attached to the glass regulator, I dont think its part of that system. Its interesting that it seems to only be screwed to the inner door and the bottom or outerdoor side seem to have foam on them. Why would it only be attached on one side and move around so much? I think its designed to move around when the door slams to absorb resonation or to keep the inner door from vibrating. I think the two screws I have that are rusted to **** are letting it move too much that its hitting the metal bottom of the door, or there is a third attachment point I cant see thats rusted thru.

I'm sure its rust that caused the problems. And its bothering me that nobody else has had this problems (at least I cant find it on the board). And I know why.

I've had the car 10 years (from new) and it was only last year I learned there are actually water drains at the bottoms of the door. I used to get a ton of water in the doors after a big rain and could hear it sloshing around while I drove and I had to leave the door open for hours with stick stuff like pencils or pens wedged under the door seal and the water would slowly drip out of the pins holding the seal in. Back in 2010 ish when the cars were new the consensus on the board was there were no drains and the water wasnt supposed to get it. I did the RTV around the door gasket trick. I sealed the holes at the top of the door. Every 10 rainstorms, one of my doors would hold water. There were a few guys saying there should be drains at the bottom of the door, and some guys drilled holes in the metal, but most people said they were wrong. When I looked at the bottom of the doors I saw some black tabs that were filled with what looked like OEM sealant. So this went on for years of my trying to seal the doors more and it happened less often. I think the thing that helped the most was I moved and my new location I wasnt parking under a tree anymore.

Over a year ago I took one of my doors apart because I couldnt take the water anymore (I was going to drill holes in the bottom of the doors) and I found a mulch like mud at the bottom. When I cleaned it out and I was looking at those sealed tabs from the inside of the door, I realized they ARE drains and mine were just filled with years of ground up dirt and mulchified leaves. I laid on my back under each door with a garden hose and shot water up into those tabs and could see them all clear out, and the water I shot up in the easily drained out of the cleared tabs. I felt like an ass for dealing with this problem for years when it was my drains clogged for years. Sigh. So now IMO the window seals are not designed to be water tight, just to keep 95% of the water out. And the 5% that gets thru is meant to stay behind the plastic sheet in the doors and the water is meant to drain out of the bottom.

Anyhoo, I used to get a ton of water built up in this very door, passenger rear. So thats where the rusted screws came from. Any why this plastic thing is not making a ton of noise.

Now that I have that foam under it, I think its supplementing the foam that exists on the plastic thing and there is no noise. I think I'm going to leave it like that a few weeks and see if the foam moves. If it stays put I'll put the door back together and hope it holds. If the noise comes back or my window gets jammed I know where to look first. Then I'll probably drill out the two rusted screws and see if I can remove the whole plastic thing. Will be curious to see if the door slam sounds totally different with it removed.

I hate being the first person with a problem.
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-31-2019, 06:23 AM
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Have yet to see any automotive door without water drain holes, but that's not to say they are non-existent. Presume there has to be some allowance made by the manufacturer for water getting into the door either occasionally or over a period of time. Will typically use a flat blade screwdriver or the like to remove any sort of debris from the drain hole. It's also good to clear the inside channel as well since there might be foreign matter too large to pass through the drain hole.

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post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-12-2019, 02:45 PM Thread Starter
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MY CAR IS SO QUIET NOW!!!!! I cut the damn thing out. Even tho it was no longer banging constantly with the foam I shoved under it, I could still hear it rattling on big bumps. It sucks the two screws were rusted in and I had to grind them down, but I'm not reinstalling it so no harm.

Now that its out, it looks more green than yellow. And it is a honeycomb. It was only held on by two screws (on one side) so it did kind of dangle. So I'm pretty sure its to either absorb vibration or make the door sound more solid when it closes. Besides the two screws there are 5 or 6 squares of foam glued to it that keeps it in contact with the inner door wall, door bottom, and side impact beam. All of my foam was squished and worn, which it what allowed the thing to contact metal and make noise. Still not sure what it does or what its called. The door still closes with a solid thunk. I dunno. MY CAR IS SO QUIET I've had this thing driving me crazy all winter.






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