Shifting to park issues, other dying issues - Pontiac G8 Forum: G8 Forums - G8Board.com
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-01-2019, 07:28 PM Thread Starter
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Shifting to park issues, other dying issues

So I got this car about 2 months ago. It’s got cam, stall, gears everything was done before I bought it. Few days after I bought it, I was in reverse backing out, and it died. Started right back up, had a check engine code evap system. Took it to a local tuner, had him tune everything, changed O2 sensors, then everything seemed good.

Then a few days later, after driving for 30+ minutes, the car would idle search and then die, only when in park or neutral. Once the car is warmed, been driven for 15-20 mins, if I park let’s say at a gas station, leave the car running for 5 mins, it will search and die. If I put into gear while searching, it will catch itself and not die. It’s never died while in drive or reverse since the tune.

New issues just came up today. After driving for a few hours, running errands what not, I get home and put into park. Hour later go out to start won’t start crank anything. I noticed the dash said it was still in reverse, but gear shifter is in park. Couldn’t change gears, key on off, brake pedal pushed no noise at the shifter, nothing. Reverse lights were on. Then, after just messing with the shifter holding the brake down, after about 20 mins it let me shift it to drive and then back to park. Once I got it back to park starts right up.

So now, I have to shift it into park firmly, and it takes 5-10 seconds before the dash lights up park. Delayed going from any gear into park, but park to any gear is normal. Any reason for this? Mechanical like the shift cable, or tune computer related? Oh and now when I hit the lock one time on keypad I get multiple beeps, that’s different. And while the car is waiting to go from reverse to park, the idle is staying around 2k rpms, then it finally reconginzes park and idle comes down.

I’m definitely a newbie when it comes to modified cars, I’ve always like fast cars but the ones I’ve owned always been stock.

Any and all input would be appreciated as I have no idea where to start other than things that I have googled. I’m pretty sure it has a small vacuum leak, the tuner pointed that out durning the tune, just a slight whistle sound at idle.
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-01-2019, 11:26 PM
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Do the mods on the car include a modified air/filter assembly ? If so, I'm thinking having an air leak somewhere between the MAF an TB might make some type of sound (maybe as you have described) as well as messing up the signal to the ECM from the MAF (as in un-metered air).
If you in fact actually had an EVAP fault, what was that code ? Usually, if you get one of the codes assigned to the EVAP system, it stays around until a fix has been performed.

There is a link rod from the shift lever (that can be adjusted if necessary) to the transmission gear selector arm. Moving the ignition key to the full on/run position, you can check all of the shifting position functions an they would /should be displayed on the DIC. I did this in my car, an all of the position changes were displayed within in 1/2 second. Sport an Manual modes displayed everything the same way as they do when actually driving an working the shift lever. With the car in the quiet mode an the ignition key moved to position1 (or position 2 if you want to see whats happening as displayed in the DIC), press the shift lever button over an over. It will only pull in half way of its full travel (by design). Each time you must hear a solenoid click/thunk sound coming from the steering column. Then (with the shift lever still in the park position) release that shift lever button and cycle the brake pedal (press/release press/release). You must hear the solenoid in the console click/thunk each time you do this. At this time, the shifter button will now be allowed to be pulled all the way in (which then allows you to pull the shift lever out of the Park position)

If you have some device currently plugged into the DLC connector, remove it for now. To many owners have developed some amazing problems (caused by devices plugged into that connector).

If the ignition key *will not* rotate to the off/remove position, you might have to TS the park position micro switch in the console.

You have a ton of screwy things happening , so I (at least) will have to wait for some responses from you, before trying to continue. Or if you think I'm heading down the wrong fork in the road on this, I'll understand.
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-02-2019, 06:49 AM Thread Starter
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So I think the only code I got before the tune was p1400. I think the tuner guy just turned it off so it hasn’t came back.

It does have a vararam intake, and a couple weeks ago I took everything off and cleaned the throttle body and maf sensor. I left the key on run, put something on the gas pedal to open it up and clean. Used micro fiber towel, used actual tb cleaner and maf cleaners and sprayed on rag then ckeaned. It honestly didn’t make a difference in anything.

When I took the intake off to clean everything, I did notice a small crack where the intake goes onto the air filter box. Maybe that’s my leak? I’ll have to take a picture when I get home.

Also I try the suggestions when I get home as well. I do know that every time I hit the shifter button, like it would go down half way every time and I would hear the noise every time I would hit the button. Once I get home I’ll try everything you said, and let you know what happens exactly
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-02-2019, 07:03 AM Thread Starter
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Oh and nothing plugged into that connector, as well as the key was never stuck in the ignition. Hopefully my responses are coherent, and thanks for help
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-02-2019, 01:34 PM
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Looking at the P1400 fault code, is interesting. The ECM contains a dedicated model within it, of how fast it expects the Catalytic Converters to warm up on a cold start. To make sure that it happens as quick as possible, the ECM commands a very rich fuel condition along with a retarded spark timing. If those converters do not reach that required out temp within a certain time frame (to match the model set in the ECM), the P1400 fault code will set. I wonder if turning/tuning that fault code function off/out, would defeat that function an create erratic start/run problems (especially when the engine is cold). One of the things they say that could be the cause of that fault code, is having an air leak at a location beyond the MAF sensor. If you think that there may be a leak in that area (perhaps caused by a stress or fatigued fractured area), maybe it qualifies as a candidate for an application from that (we can fix anything) stuff called Duct Tape (as a temporary test).

If the key always was allowed to return to the off/lock/remove position, it sounds like the park position switch in the console was being triggered when the lever reached the park position. If you can do this with the lever in any gear position (vs park position only), something is screwed up in that console.


Also >>>>> That might mean that the car want's to remain in the open loop mode (very rich fuel mixture an vary retarded ignition) which sounds like an engine that would have a tough time idling an wanting to shutdown, vs an engine wanting to switch to the closed loop mode quickly (very good controlled fuel scheduling as well as controlled spark timing).
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-02-2019, 08:20 PM Thread Starter
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Got home later than I wanted so didn’t get to trouble shoot or mess with the possible vacuum leak/crack. But I mess with the shifter more. So if it’s on or off, and in park, when I press the brake I hear the noise, and when I press the shifter button, I also hear the noise.

To be honest, it seems like when I put the shifter in drive it has a ton of play. Like i can push the shifter without hitting the button to where the console shows it’s in neutral, but the dash and trans still thinks it’s in drive. If I keep the shifter always back as far as it would go in drive, try to shift to park, it would have the really long delay until it would actually go into park. If I try to shift into park from the almost neutral position, it seems to go into park like normal. Is there a shift cable that could be worn, or stretched out that could cause that? Or is it something with the shifter itself?

I think the switch for the pedal and for the button seems to work as it should...as long as the car in showing in park on the dash. It’s kind of hard to explain, hope this made sense.
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-02-2019, 08:27 PM Thread Starter
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Looking back at your initial response, I see where you said there was a shift lever going to the trans that could be adjusted. Would it all of the sudden need a adjustment, or something that would get worse over time? I haven’t had any issue like this until yesterday. Now I will say, I was in a hurry when I shut the car off and ran inside before this issue happened, and I might’ve just shifted into park a half a second before it completely stopped. I didn’t hear anything weird, or feel anything, not even sure if I did this just thinking of all possible things that could’ve happened. Could this have cause the lever to need to be adjusted? I also use the manual and sport mode more recently, would that have made a adjustment necessary? Again, thanks for all your help.
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-03-2019, 11:20 AM
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My shift lever makes very positive thunk sounds when moved from position to position. When in each position, if I choose to wiggle the lever back an forth, it will move a touch. Pretty sure its been this way for the 10 years. I think you would have to disconnect the shift lever link rod from the transmission, an manually move the transmissions selector arm thru all of its positions to verify that there is no play at that end. Thinking, there have been a couple of owners that had to replace that shifter assembly due to problems within it. New shift lever assemblies are still shown as available if necessary.
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 07:09 AM
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Thanks all for your replies.
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