Camshaft and DoD Delete DIY Guide! - Pontiac G8 Forum: G8 Forums - G8Board.com
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post #1 of 114 (permalink) Old 07-13-2009, 08:46 PM Thread Starter
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Camshaft and DoD Delete DIY Guide!

So, i've been asked by several people to write up somewhat of a DIY for how i did my Cam install. So, here is a general sequence of events and some pictures to hopefully help anyone that would like to install their own aftermarket camshaft and or do the DoD delete with it.

If anyone has any input that may help or if you notice something that i may have overlooked, please feel free to let me know and i will amend the DIY as necessary. Also, depending on interest, i may add to this DIY and be a bit more specific in some areas.

1. Remove Rotofab (or stock intake).





2. Drain coolant and remove radiator. Didnt take many pics of this, as it wasnt that exciting. Getting the radiator out was kind of a pain to do alone, as the bottom mounts actually sit under the AC condenser, so you have to lift the AC condenser up and then slide the radiator out and up...Here are the pics of the radiator removal and coolant drain:


Block cooling outlet hose:

Both block hoses removed:

Just before radiator removal:


3. Remove fuel rail/intake manifold assembly. All PCV hoses will need to be disconnected before you can remove the intake manifold. The only hickup i had here was not having the fuel line disconnect tool. Its a 3/8" fuel line disconnect used by ford and GM...readily available at any autoparts store. Also, its important to ensure the engine is COLD before removing the intake manifold. The stock bolts SUCK HARD and are very ductile when hot...thus prone to braking. So, removing and installing the bolts cold is the best idea. Now is also a good time to remove both drive belts. Pics of intake manifold removal:



2008 C6 4LT Convertible
2006 GMC Yukon Denali
2009 G8 GT (SOLD!)


Last edited by BobtheMonkee; 07-13-2009 at 11:00 PM.
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post #2 of 114 (permalink) Old 07-13-2009, 08:47 PM Thread Starter
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4. Remove DoD valley cover and install new non-dod valley cover. Before installing new valley cover, remove oil pressure sensor from the old valley cover, give it a bead of loctite, then screw it into the new valley cover. Make sure its nice and tight as to prevent any leakage. Now you are ready to slap on the new valley cover.

Old valley cover still installed...looks like something out of an alien movie!


Valley cover removed:

DoD valley cover on left and LS2 valley cover on right:


5. Remove coilpacks and rockerarm covers and then remove rocker arms, rocker arm brace, and push rods from heads. This part is very simple and very quick. Make sure to keep the rockers in a clean spot and ensure they get installed in the same positions that they were removed from. This is also a good time to remove exhaust manifolds/headers from heads.



Rockers and pushrods removed:

2008 C6 4LT Convertible
2006 GMC Yukon Denali
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post #3 of 114 (permalink) Old 07-13-2009, 08:48 PM Thread Starter
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6. Remove heads. I'm convinced there is no really good way to completely void the heads of coolant. The only real way to do it is putting a very high powered vacuum up to the water pump and start sucking. Regardless, you should just prepare for a WATERFALL of coolant while taking the heads off. To make things a bit easier, there is a plug on the passenger heads that can be removed to drain some of the coolant.

Now, here is where i went wrong with my install. I'll explain how it SHOULD be done. Before removing the head bolts, ensure that all coolant bleed lines, wire harnesses, and zipties are disconnected from the heads. This is pretty straight forward except for the ziptie holding the wire run going to the back of the heads. These can be popped out with a small flat head screwdriver. Instead of doing that, i opted to cut the ziptie instead and ended up slicing 5 wires in the main wire run! So, DONT DONT DONT DONT DONT DONT DONT DONT cut the zip ties!!!!!!!!!!!!! You will also need to remove the power steering pump bolts to get the driver side heads off, i just removed all of the retainer bolts and left it dangling in the front of the engine bay.

Once all of the stuff is disconnected from the heads, they will slide out easily once the bolts are off. There are 2 place holding dowells on the lower side of the heads that need to be retained in the BLOCK...not in the heads. They may follow the heads, but can easily be removed with pliers. Make sure not to lose these, as they make head re-install very simple.

Now for some pictures:

Passenger heads removed:

A view of the lifters:


Both heads removed:




Make sure to be careful with the block side of the heads. Any damage to the gasket surface can cause a leak and could make for a BAD day when you put stuff back together. I just laid down a large blanket and placed them carefully on the blanket so that i could disassemble and reassemble them.

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post #4 of 114 (permalink) Old 07-13-2009, 08:49 PM Thread Starter
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7. Remove the lifters. You do not want to install the new lifters until the new cam is in place. Makes things a LOT easier. Here are a few lifter pics:

DoD lifter assembly on the left, new ls7 lifter assembly on the right:

The DoD lifters are the big ones with springs on them...silly looking:


8. Disassemble and reassemble the heads. This part is a bit tedious, especially if you get the dual valve springs. I used an "in car" valve spring compressor and it worked just fine. You can also use a c-clamp compressor, which will make things a bit easier, but i think its unnecessary. The handheld compressor worked just fine for me. For the livernois kit, you will need to completely disassmeble the heads...meaning remove springs, locks, and retainer cups, as well as the valve stem oil seals (vice grip pliers worked fine to get these off). You should also remove the spark plugs and keep them out until later in the install.

Compressor on one of the springs:


Springs compressed and removed:

Fully disassembled:


Apparently i didnt take any pictures of the assembly, but its just the reverse of disassembly. There are a few tricks to getting the new viton valve spring seals on the stems. You can use a press, but most people doing the install in their garage will not have a press. So, i used a deep socket that fit perfectly around the outer edge of the seal, lubricated the seal a bit with some clean engine oil, and tapped them down using the socket. the new seals will not sit flush with the retainer cups on the heads, but you will feel when the valve oil seals are fully installed as you are tapping them down. Be careful not to tap too hard, because the seals are easy to damage.

Remember to leave the spark plugs out of the heads.

9. Disassmeble front of engine. Crank pulley removal can prove to be a huge pain in the ass. There are a few tricks to keeping it from turning while you are cranking on the pulley bolt. You can install a bracket on the flywheel to keep it stationary. You can stick a wrench in the flexplate on the bottom of the transmission to keep it from spinning. You can stick a wrench in one of the spokes of the pully so that it rests against the engine block as you are cranking on the bolt. You can stick a pry bar in the flexplate and rest it against the ground. All of these methods work. As for removing the pulley itself, i used a regular 3 jaw puller. I wish i had an LS1 puller, as it actually is small enough to grip the inside of the pulley, making removal much easier than using the 3 jaw and pulling on the outside ring of the pulley.

Take off the water pump. You will get another nice gush of coolant from the water pump when its removed...

Now remove the engine front cover. This is kind of a pain in the ass. There are 2 bolts on the bottom side of the engine front cover that hold it to the oil pan. Once those are out, taking the engine front cover off is simple.

Wrench in spoke method of pulley removal:

Removed crank pully and a view of the water pump before removal:

Engine front cover removed:

2008 C6 4LT Convertible
2006 GMC Yukon Denali
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post #5 of 114 (permalink) Old 07-13-2009, 08:49 PM Thread Starter
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10. Now comes the most difficult part of the install...the oil pump. There are a few ways to get the oil pump off of the crankshaft. The best way to do it without damaging the pickup tube o-ring is to loosen all bolts on the oilpan and dropping the pan just a bit in the front. The BIGGEST pain in the ass is getting the bolt that holds the oilpan pickup tube and the oilpump together. It is on the underside of the pickup tube and removing the bolt without dropping the oilpan a bit takes an act of complete magic. Somehow, i managed to get the bolt out without dropping it into the oilpan and without having to drop the oilpan, but later i decided to drop the oilpan for reinstalling the pump, so you might as well drop it in the beginning.

Once the pickup tube retainer bolt is removed you can wiggle the oilpump off of the crankshaft. Be careful not to bend the pickup tube too much as you get the oilpump off. With the oilpump off, you can remove the cam sprocket bolt, cam sprocket, timing chain, and timing chain dampener.

Cam sprocket bolt removed:

Cam sprocket, timing chain, and timing chain dampener removed:

DoD timing chain dampener on the right, LS2 timing chain dampener on the left:


11. Finally, the actual cam swap. Start pulling out the DoD cam, twisting it as you pull. if you feel any resistance, do not pull hard. Cam degreeing takes a bit of patience and some steady hands. To get the old cam out and new cam in, you need to make some clearance in the front of the engine. you can either pull the AC condenser, or bend it down under the camshaft. I decided to bend it down, since i did not want to recharge my AC system. Looks brutal but worked pretty well.



Once you get the DoD cam out, give the new cam a good cleaning with some carb cleaner. I used a whole can on it to get it clean. Then slap some clean oil on it for some lubrication.

The new, cleaned camshaft ready for install:

Some pics of the install:





2008 C6 4LT Convertible
2006 GMC Yukon Denali
2009 G8 GT (SOLD!)

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post #6 of 114 (permalink) Old 07-13-2009, 09:16 PM
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awesome write up. thanks I might be trying this soon..

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post #7 of 114 (permalink) Old 07-13-2009, 09:40 PM Thread Starter
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12. Now you are ready to start putting stuff back together. Get the new timing chain dampener, cam sprocket, and timing chain back on. Now you are at the second biggest pain in the ass of the whole install...getting the oilpump back on the crankshaft without damaging the o-ring on the pickup tube. I talked to several people about this before actually attempting to install it and received several tips about how to go about doing it.

I decided to go ahead and disassemble the oil pump and remove the smooth toothed gears. This allows you to actually see the pickup tube entering the hole in the pump. To finish up getting the o-ring in position, i tightened down on the retaining bolt and the o-ring was sucked right up into the pump. After that, i re-assembled the pump and thats it. I've heard of this process taking a couple of hours to complete. Took me all of 30 minutes.

Oil pump being disassembled:




Oil pump going on the crankshaft:

Pickup tube going into the oil pump:


Oil pump with gears back in place:


I dont have many pictures of the rest of the install, as it was just the reverse of how i started. But i will still describe the general steps i took after this point.

13. Install engine front cover. I put a small amount of RTV on the bottom ends of the engine front cover to fill in the gaps in the gasket.

14. Install crank pully and torque down new crank pulley bolt.

15. Install new lifters and lifterguides. I soaked the new lifters, rocker arms, and pushrods in clean oil overnight before re-installing everything. you can never have too much lube

16. Install heads. Make sure two dowels are in place on both sides...this makes re-installation of heads much easier. Before i put the heads on, i cleaned out the bolt holes very thoroughly. All the coolant that leaked out of the heads while taking them off made a mess of the holes, so cleaning them took a while. I used long q-tips and lint free cloth to soak up all the coolant from the holes, then used the old head bolts to clean the threads up a bit. Remember, the head gaskets are single torque gaskets, so make sure you have everything set before torquing the heads down. If you have to take the heads off for some reason after torquing them down, you may get a coolant leak (like i did) or maybe something worse. Once the heads are in place, you can secure the power steering pump back to the driver side heads.

17. Install water pump.

18. Install pushrods and rocker arms. leave rocker arm cover off for now.

19. Start cranking the engine by hand. Ensure you have no snags and that the cranking is smooth. Observe all rocker arms moving while you are cranking. Once you are sure that you have no snags or issues with your rockers, install rocker arm cover. You can now install the spark plugs into the heads.

20. Install intake manifold. It helps to get the non-DoD PCV plugs in place before setting the intake manifold down. Also, before putting the intake manifold back, ziptie the DoD actuator cable to the back of the engine bay somewhere to ensure it does not get stuck between the flywheel and transmission.

21. Install coil packs and start hooking up the PCV system and all electrical connectors

22. Install radiator, connect all cooling hoses, and fill it with coolant. Leave fill cap off for now.

23. Install belts then install the intake.

24. Make sure you have a tune that has DoD electronically disabled.

25. Double, triple, and quadruple check all connectors, hoses, and PCV lines. Also, please dont forget to hook up your spark plug wires. Then reconnect your battery.

26. Start it up and pray. Let it idle for 10 minutes while pouring coolant into the radiator. you may need to play with the inlet and outlet hoses a bit to burp the system and ensure its full, so keep an eye on it.

27. Take it for a test drive and enjoy the fruits of your hard work!

2008 C6 4LT Convertible
2006 GMC Yukon Denali
2009 G8 GT (SOLD!)


Last edited by BobtheMonkee; 07-13-2009 at 10:59 PM.
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post #8 of 114 (permalink) Old 07-13-2009, 10:05 PM
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I got through three pictures and the only thought I have is....Pay a professional to do this!
Good Job Brandon, you have a lot more courage than I do!

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post #9 of 114 (permalink) Old 07-13-2009, 10:28 PM Thread Starter
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it was a fun install...learned a TON about my engine while taking it apart...i could do this install again in less than half the time.

definitely not an install for someone who does not have any experience in busting apart engines or at least some kind of mechanical training. I took a big risk doing this by myself (as i had never gone further than installing a CAI before this install). But, the hard work and patience paid off...i love this cam!

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post #10 of 114 (permalink) Old 07-13-2009, 10:30 PM
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Did you get much help from the LSX guys? I noticed a couple of familiar faces in a few of the pics!
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post #11 of 114 (permalink) Old 07-13-2009, 10:34 PM Thread Starter
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i had a bonfire party at my house during the middle of the install, so a bunch of the LSXN guys were there and gave me a hand...definitely helped having some experience around.

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post #12 of 114 (permalink) Old 07-13-2009, 10:38 PM
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Don't remember you saying, how long did the process take, days, hours, etc. An idea of how much of a time commitment it requires would probably help some who want to do it decide yea or nay.
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post #13 of 114 (permalink) Old 07-13-2009, 11:37 PM Thread Starter
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took me about a week and a half, which isnt bad considering it was my first engine teardown. I took it very slow and paid close attention to everything i was doing.

if i were to do it again, i could probably get it done in 4 days

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post #14 of 114 (permalink) Old 07-14-2009, 07:21 AM
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Sticky please....
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post #15 of 114 (permalink) Old 07-14-2009, 10:30 AM Thread Starter
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i am trying to get this moved to the DIY section...only reason i posted it here is that i have moderator priv's here so that allowed me to have greater control over my post.

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post #16 of 114 (permalink) Old 07-14-2009, 10:50 AM
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Good job man! Was this your first cam swap? I know I was scared to death when I did my first solo cam swap waaaay back when I was 17 years old. (20 years ago) but it turned out great. If I wasn't worried about my warrenty tis would be one of my first mods a it makes the biggest difference BAR NONE other then supercharging.
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post #17 of 114 (permalink) Old 07-14-2009, 10:54 AM Thread Starter
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This was my first cam swap...actually my first time doint something more than a cold air intake...had a blast!

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post #18 of 114 (permalink) Old 07-14-2009, 11:04 AM
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If you had a blast doing this you should try getting an old car and doing a frame off rebuild! I bet you'd REALLY love that! I've done about 4 complete cars from the ground up, takes time but its well worth it IMHO as you know EXACTLY what all is in the car.
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post #19 of 114 (permalink) Old 07-14-2009, 12:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Christiancoach View Post
I got through three pictures and the only thought I have is....Pay a professional to do this!
Good Job Brandon, you have a lot more courage than I do!
+1

If I tried this I would be missing three fingers, my engine would have exploded through the hood and the department of ecology would be condemning my front yard as a superfund site.

Very impressive work!



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post #20 of 114 (permalink) Old 07-14-2009, 05:01 PM
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So does the DoD have to be removed when doing a cam swap?
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