It was a process but the car is running again finally. I wanted to write a brief summary since this "build" was out of necessity and somewhat budget constrained. I also did my research and chose the best route for my needs as a reliable daily driver that is unlikely to have any other power adders.
I cant say enough good things about Duffee Motorsports in Glendale. Brian is a great guy and knows how to build engines.
After examining my block, crank and rods, he found that the crank journals were 0.001" under min spec, the cylinders were 0.0015" tapered, but the rods were fine. There isnt a shop in AZ to machine cranks and I didnt have 3-4 weeks to wait for the shop in Denver so I decided to purchase a new factory crank, use factory bearings, polish and balance. the mains were fine.
I only needed to bore 0.005" in order to correct the cylinders but I wanted to stay with a hypereutectic piston as opposed to forged for noise and cost. The smallest cast flattop piston I could find was 0.020" over so thats what we did. Then the block deck needed to be decked 0.002" to get it flat.
I cleaned the heads, re-lapped the stock valves, and re-installed the BTR dual springs that I had only installed 3 months ago.
New factory crank
New factory main and rod bearings
Reuse stock rods and mains
New factory main and rod bolts
Block bored 0.020" over
Speedtech flattop pistons and pins
New oil pump and pickup oring
New timing chain
New seals and gaskets
New LS lifters
New cam bearings
New RCR 223/232 .612/.599 111+0 Lunati cam
New 7.350 BTR pushrods
New factory head gaskets
Reuse stock heads, previously milled 0.040"
BTR dual platinum springs, new seals
New Summit solid bronze trunnion kit
Reuse ARP head bolts
New ARP intake manifold bolts
While installing the rockers, I found that several of the BTR trunnion kit bearings installed 50k miles ago were damaged or broken. Decided to use solid bronze replacements.
I used Amsoil assembly lube on the lower engine and Permatex lube on the cam and upper engine. I primed the engine using my Motive brake bleeder through the oil pressure sensor location. I used Amsoil break in oil for the initial startup and first 60 mile break in. Drained, and filled with 1 qt break in oil, rest std Valvoline 5W-30. Will run for another couple hundred miles, change again with Valvoline and then at 1,500 miles, switch back to Amsoil synthetic.
I painted the valve covers, TB, water pump and various brackets wrinkle black just to dress it up a bit.
I tucked the top wire harness a bit by running it under the TB, not over. The SS ARP intake bolts are a nice touch and I plan to use SS bolts on the coils also.
Of course, tweaking the tune for the cube gain and new cam using HPTuners but it is running great.
Here are some photos-
NEW- 2009 PSM GT- 0.020" over/ Vararam/ RCR 223/232 cam/ Kooks 1 7/8" LT/ 3" exhaust/ 3200 Yank/ 3.45 gears/ HPT self-tune
SOLD- 2008 LR G8 GT / Intake / HPT self-tune / E85 / 160* stat / Kooks mids / Dynomax ST axlebacks / Xpipe / 219/233 Comp Cam