I'm in the same boat as you. But I remember a while back there was a thread on here about the most complete DOD delete kits out there. So far consensus was that G8only had the most complete Dod delete kit. (Valley, lifters, trays, cams, chain, rods, tensioner, gaskets.) With options to upgrade.
As for AC belt, I dunno. Some saying replacing the balancer with 25% under-driven one would also do the trick.
I am not looking for under-drive gains with the AC tensioner. My problem is the belt has and continues to come off with the slightest stab of the accelerator. I have already ordered the dual tensioner set-up from Holden parts USA, https://holdenpartsusa.com/collectio...ner-kit-w-belt
I have read some instances of the stock tensioner doing damage when the belt comes off, and if this is true I am lucky, if not true, then no longer having to put the belt back on is enough to warrant the cost for me. I only drive in the summer, so AC is in use!
Check my spreadsheet
for information. The DoD stuff is at the top. Basically I got the texas speed kit which had everything but a cam and springs and got the cam and springs from aceperformance.
Thanks for the spreadsheet! A couple questions,
The new Melling pump, was this done in a need for a failing part, preemptive replacement, or something you wanted to do?
Pushrod checker, were you just being double sure of correctly placing various lengths, or did you re-use original rods?
I have seen numerous mentions of Johnson lifters, what did you use, or recommend other than what you used if different?
Thanks again for the sheet
Texas Speed has a good kit and it's not going to cost any more with the extra gaskets it doesn't include. Ragnarock's list looks good to me.
I have a list that's a bit more extensive, but it depends on how much work you're doing. I pulled my engine out and did a full valvetrain rebuild and replaced both front and rear mains. I also did a bearing replacement job. Naturally, I had to buy more stuff.
SacCity Corvette sells a cover alignment tool for the front and rear that does the job at a fraction of the cost of the OEM tool. By that, I mean I have ZERO oil leaks after 2 years; sufficed to say it will never leak because of alignment.
When it came to valves and seats, I used Brownells 800 & 1000 grit lapping compound. The stuff you can get at autozone is Silicone Carbide and is best used on Iron heads. The Brownell's garnet based compound is made for rifles, but is coincidentally also great for this motor's aluminum heads because of the softer/finer material. It's not as hard as the SC material.
Personally, I favor removing the engine if you have the space. A novice engine puller should take 2 days to do it. 1 Day to remove everything, another to disconnect and remove the motor. (Not necessarily a full day of work on day 2). Mostly, it's just because you're going slow and don't want to bust anything up.
Then you can replace the cam bearings as well just be be sure you're putting good bearings up against a new cam. #2 at least is going to have a groove from the unused VVT channel in the DOD cam. Replacing the rear main seal is quite easy and a simple process.
Plus, when you inevitably come up against an over torqued and heat cycled cam retainer bolt, it's easier to work on it on a stand than in the engine bay. (Just sayin.....)
Then you can easily put in a new TQC while you're in there and even toss in a transmission oil cooler.
The problem is; it gets expensive... LOL
How much you lookin' to spend?
Obviously I am trying not to break the bank cost wise, with that said, I want to do things correctly the first time, so if it is a bit more, I will spend it. I am not looking for big, if any gains, simply want to head off any future problems (DOD failure) and if I can get any gains, so much the better. I plan to keep this beauty indefinitely, and the miles will pile on in short and long distances, so dependability is also something I am doing this work for.
Many sources of the parts, seems everyone is the "best". While sourced my own, I found Greg at Pace performance (GM dealer) very helpful.
Back on topic, most site replacing the DOD for reliability, then install cam with lift beyond GM spec.- yet install LS7 lifters which are designed based on the GM cam. Look around, many examples of LS7 lifter fails with aftermarket cams. If you want reliability, add Johnson lifters to the parts list.
So are the Johnson lifters something to be used in general, or more of a higher performance application?
I didn't pull the engine when I did my DOD delete and it wasn't too hard. If I had it to do over again and had the money I would do the Johnson lifters and have the heads ported since you will already have them off. Cam and heads is a nice power increase.
Same question as for JCMG8,
Johnson lifters for higher performance or reliability?
Thanks everyone for all the replies and information, sorry for the delay in response, work has been fortunately, booming!!