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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-23-2019, 09:10 AM Thread Starter
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Cam Swap started

Greetings All,
First off ....Thanks to you all for the advice and direction, much appreciated.
A quick purple power wash down then started tearing into engine bay last night.
Going to try to find the "Bad Piston" when heads come off. Bad Piston meaning the cold slapper..LOL
I have a new Mahle piston and matching rings in case it jumps out of the bore at me.....
Cam is a BTR LS3 Stage 2 and thats it.
No headers or anything else, being that this is California.....You know.
Any one with any helpful tips would be nice........I think i have it covered but we will see.
Any HP tuner files would be nice.....
Have a great weekend...Everyone!!
John

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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-23-2019, 11:23 AM
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When you say that all you're doing is installing a cam, does that mean you are also doing the necessary supporting parts as well such as non-DOD valley cover, lifters, pushrods, and valve springs? And then since it is ripped apart it is a good idea to do new timing chain and oil pump.

I just did a cam swap a couple weeks ago. You can see the thread I made before I did the swap HERE with some tips at the end. Some of the main tips I have though are:
  • Have a good system to keep track of the bolts and where they go!
  • Have plenty of ratchet extensions of different lengths and different drive sizes. A ratchet joint extension could also come in handy.
  • Print THIS torque guide. Having a piece of paper with it all is a lot easier than constantly pulling out your phone while your hands are oily.
  • Keep everything as clean as possible. When I pulled the valvetrain components, I didn't cover them up and random bits of crap got all over them while doing other work. Took me quite awhile to clean and re-oil them all again.
  • Having an electric ratchet like THIS was a HUGE life saver for me. Just made taking off and putting on bolts less of a pain and when you have probably a hundred bolts to deal with, anything to minimize time ratcheting is a benefit. Obviously don't use it to torque down the bolts though.
  • Be careful when pulling off the little metal clips that hold on the transmission lines to the radiator. They like to go flying and can easily be lost.
  • Put some rags or something into the front of the oil pan from the moment you take off the front cover to the moment it goes back on. You do NOT want to drop anything into that oil pan. This saved me twice from accidentally dropping bolts into the pan.
  • Make sure you put the timing chain and ALL components on prior to re-installing the oil pump. (not like I forgot too...)
  • Removing and re-installing the oil pump SUCKS! I found it easier to just take apart the oil pump prior to removing the pickup tube and reassembling after the pickup tube is back on. Just make sure the oil pump stays extremely clean if you do this.
  • Don't forget to put a little bit of RTV in the bottom corners of the front cover where it meets the oil pan and engine block.

That's all I can think of right now. I'm sure there's more tips others may have, but I know those were some I found prior to doing my install or learned along the way.

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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-23-2019, 11:29 AM Thread Starter
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Yes while DOD delete complete BTR kit....thanks for the list!!! Awesome that you took the time to post such a thing. I am stopping on occasion and making quick videos of my progress. Not sure what I am going to do with them yet.... Thanks again!!

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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-23-2019, 06:08 PM Thread Starter
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"Removing and re-installing the oil pump SUCKS! I found it easier to just take apart the oil pump prior to removing the pickup tube and reassembling after the pickup tube is back on. Just make sure the oil pump stays extremely clean if you do this."

Wow....does the impeller drive gear come outwithout a puller?? seems to really be in there...was thinking a lil heat might loosen it?? of course without blazing the motor ......

I should be asking if i need to drop the pan down bit to get it out??
It looks like there are a lot of you tube vids with folks doing this...

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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-23-2019, 07:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigDaddy View Post
"Removing and re-installing the oil pump SUCKS! I found it easier to just take apart the oil pump prior to removing the pickup tube and reassembling after the pickup tube is back on. Just make sure the oil pump stays extremely clean if you do this."

Wow....does the impeller drive gear come outwithout a puller?? seems to really be in there...was thinking a lil heat might loosen it?? of course without blazing the motor ......

I should be asking if i need to drop the pan down bit to get it out??
It looks like there are a lot of you tube vids with folks doing this...
Al the internals should slide out no problem. Maybe wiggle it around a bit, but definitely shouldn't need a puller or heat.
You do not need to drop the pan to get the internals of the oil pump out, only need to drop it to get the pickup tube bolt out and back on. Some people claim they can get it out and back on without dropping the pan, but it is all of 5 minutes to remove the oil pan bolts and drop it which will make the almost impossible task of removing the bolt somewhat easier. Again, be very careful to not drop the bolt into the pan and be careful when installing the pickup tube back on to not mess up the o-ring.

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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-24-2019, 12:25 AM Thread Starter
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strip down complete

She is all stripped down finally got the oil pump off and had to buy a puller for the damn crank gear...123000 miles and I guess she was baked on there pretty good. The new gear goes on really tight as well........Hope its on when I degree the cam.
Found two bad Cam lobes on stock cam.
Badly pitted and carving into the metal. decided on a new melling pump was gunna run the stock but after that ordeal......
Really appreciate the responses and help......
Thanks Again everyone!!!!!

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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-24-2019, 08:11 AM
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Did you have to remove the crank gear? I honestly don't remember having to remove it. There also isn't anything special with degreeing the cam, just line up the dot on the cam sprocket with the dot on the crank sprocket and you're good (ex: cam dot @ 6 o-clock position and crank dot @ 12).

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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-24-2019, 10:22 AM Thread Starter
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I thought the stock gear was like the aftermarket one, being two piece. It came off last and required a puller...

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