New Brakes - My Experience - Pontiac G8 Forum: G8 Forums - G8Board.com
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post #1 of 69 (permalink) Old 03-10-2010, 10:53 PM Thread Starter
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New Brakes - My Experience

Thought I'd post my experience today:

Did a brake overhall on my 09 today.
1: All new Rotors (Centrik blanks, bought from Tirerack)
2: All new Pads (Carbotech Bobcats)
3: Completely Flushed brake fluid (replaced with ATE Super blue)

I pretty much dove right into without much information. After searching and searching I could not find any hard facts about proper bleeding sequence or whether or not there were any hang-ups I might encounter. Getting this car jacked up period is a huge PITA.

Firstly, My rotors were damn near WELDED onto the hubs. All of them. I couldnt believe it. The driver's sides were the were worst for some reason. Had to beat on them pretty good with a mallet for about 5 minutes each. I did a similar brake job on my 2000 Trans Am. Those factory rotors popped right off. This car is only a year old, and they felt like theyd been rusting to the hub for ages.

Once I had the Caliper and rotors off, I cleaned all parts and the new Rotors themselves. Popped everything back on after compressing the pistons in the caliper. Torque specs were another small issue. I had found a pdf file on the other board showing what all torque specs should be for each brake component. The one that didnt seem right was the torque spec for the front Caliper Bracket bolts. Where it bolts to the steering knuckle. The specs I found said:
Fist pass - 44 lb/ft
Second pass - 120 degrees
The 120 degrees part didnt seem right. With a large breaker bar i was only able to get maybe 30 degrees out of it. There is absolutely no way to get that bolt to turn another 120 degrees after torquing it to 44 lb/ft. I basically just made it as tight as I could get it with the breaker bar.
The rears were basically the same procedure, except for a nice simple 81 lb/ft torque spec on those bracket bolts. All guide pin bolts were torqued to 31 lb/ft.
Once all pads and rotors were on and secure, I went on to bleeding. I had a friend help me witht his. Since I couldnt find any evidence that disagreed with them standard brake bleeding procedure, I went ahead and did them that way. Starting at the furthest caliper (right rear) and working my way closer. Made sure all of the dirty/bubbly stock fluid was completely flushed out. These cars will basically use One full liter of brake fluid to fill the system.
I took the car out and bedded in the pads. 4 stops from 60 to 20. about 3 minutes of cool down. Then another series of four hard 60 to 20 stops. And then a long cool down period.
So far the brakes have felt great. I did this overhall mainly because of bad pulsation i was feeling on high speed stops. It got very bad when the brakes were very hot. I also did not feel comfortable using the stock pads for much longer. I took this car on a road course a while ago, and havnt touched the brakes at all until today. Pads had plenty of meat left, but did not look to great. They were starting to crack/crumble a little.
Price for this project comes in at about $580 with the liter of fluid. Carbotech pads are a bit pricy. About twice that of the equivalent Hawk pad. Took me and my friend about 4 hours at a leisurely pace.

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Last edited by MichaelG8; 03-11-2010 at 10:44 AM.
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post #2 of 69 (permalink) Old 03-11-2010, 07:38 AM
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im getting pulsing after spirited jaunts to higher speeds as well. im at 20k on my 08 GT when should look into new brakes? they are fine aside from the stops from higher speeds.

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post #3 of 69 (permalink) Old 03-11-2010, 08:15 AM Thread Starter
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I wont tell you you need new brakes necessarily. The pulsation could be something as simple as pad deposits. I've heard simply scrubbing them with an abrasive pad and brake cleaner can sometimes fix that. I started to guess that mine might actually be warped, since they got much worse when they were good and hot. Mine were like this not too long after i bought the car. I then went to the track like this and actually had to cut my day short. Stopping from 120, 15 times each session did not feel good. lol
I've never been a fan of cutting rotors. Its personal opinion. I'm sure it would have been fine, but I wanted to start from new again. If you're unhapppywith your pulsation I would say try cleaning them yourself with the abrasive pad. (Not sure of proper procedure on this. Might want to search). Or have the dealer or whoever cut them. Just cutting the rotors shouldnt cost much. Your stock pads should be fine at 20k.

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post #4 of 69 (permalink) Old 03-11-2010, 08:15 AM
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I get the same thing... I think my discs are on the way out.. : (
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post #5 of 69 (permalink) Old 03-11-2010, 08:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Waltah View Post
im getting pulsing after spirited jaunts to higher speeds as well. im at 20k on my 08 GT when should look into new brakes? they are fine aside from the stops from higher speeds.
37k miles on my G8, just swapped over to the DBA 4000 rotors.....that went away.

It fades into the brake, does not jerk and snap or jolt into the brake anymore. Used Raybestus sp* pads......I am happy

and to the OP.....my buddy just took a hammer and beat the old rotors about 5 times while moving the rotor around and then they came off lol, even he commented about how they seemed to be rusted/welded on
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post #6 of 69 (permalink) Old 03-11-2010, 09:18 AM
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yup, a hammer and a few good whacks makes short work of those babies. Have you guys noticed if the brake squeal has all but disappeared when putting the car in reverse and slowly backing out? My car sits in the garage and every morning almost, the damn squeal rears it's head, regardless if it has been raining or not. I never had this with my previous car. Maybe if it had been sitting for awhile in rain, but not like this.

Really annoying. Been doing it since I first pulled it out of the lot (and seems a lot of people have the same issues). Just hoping when I update my brakes and rotors this will disappear.

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post #7 of 69 (permalink) Old 03-11-2010, 09:23 AM
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Originally Posted by majesticix View Post
yup, a hammer and a few good whacks makes short work of those babies. Have you guys noticed if the brake squeal has all but disappeared when putting the car in reverse and slowly backing out? My car sits in the garage and every morning almost, the damn squeal rears it's head, regardless if it has been raining or not. I never had this with my previous car. Maybe if it had been sitting for awhile in rain, but not like this.

Really annoying. Been doing it since I first pulled it out of the lot (and seems a lot of people have the same issues). Just hoping when I update my brakes and rotors this will disappear.
Mine never did that before. I used brake lube when putting on new pads. Still no squeek.
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post #8 of 69 (permalink) Old 03-11-2010, 09:26 AM
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Good to know. Guess I'll just make sure to install them properly then since the factory apparently can't do it.

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post #9 of 69 (permalink) Old 03-11-2010, 10:12 AM Thread Starter
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I've always been a little skeptical about the DBA rotors. I also couldn't justify spending the money on them. Last time I checked they were nearly 200 a piece. Blank rotor is always better for a street car. Most guys on road courses use blanks. Might see a slotted rotor here and there. Unless the car came with drilled factory, and even they have been known to crack. The DBA rotors have a very strange slot pattern. Looks like slots and "dimples". Unless going larger diameter, slots and holes will only worsen normal braking. You're just taking away surface area. Brake rotors are heat sinks. Turning kinetic energy into heat. The more mass that heat sink has, the better.

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post #10 of 69 (permalink) Old 03-11-2010, 10:46 AM
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anyone have links to replacement rotors? im almost scared to see how much they cost. im not looking for anything fancy.

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post #11 of 69 (permalink) Old 03-11-2010, 10:50 AM
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I have noticed brake rotor warpage on a number of newer vehicles. & heard others complain about it as well.

Someone at work had rotors replaced several times under warranty at a dealership. Within the same milage period the warpace would come back. Once he had the rotors turned instead of replaced, the warpage came back only slightly. Once turned the second time, it never came back.

This leads me to believe that the manufactures are not stress relieving the rotors before machining. The gradual influx of heat will stress relieve the rotors on the vehicle, causing the warpage.

Don

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post #12 of 69 (permalink) Old 03-11-2010, 10:51 AM
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I'm just gonna buy some cheap china **** from AC-Delco lol. I don't bother turning them, just replace the rotors everytime I do the brakes. I went with the more expensive American Made ones, and they actually degraded quicker than my China ones if you can believe that. I'd rather invest my money in good brakes. The slotted and cross-drilled rotors are more for appearance I think...they really don't come into play as far as performance goes unless you are track racing (auto-cross, not the drag strip). Not to mention you'll burn through your pads quicker. They do look cool though.

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Last edited by majesticix; 03-11-2010 at 10:53 AM.
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post #13 of 69 (permalink) Old 03-11-2010, 11:24 AM Thread Starter
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Replacing your cars factory blank rotors with rotors that are the same diameter and cross drilled, is for appearances ONLY.

Tire rack sells Hawk pads, Centrik blank rotors and DBA's slotted and cross-drilled rotors

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Last edited by Jaysin; 03-11-2010 at 01:22 PM. Reason: Removed NSV link
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post #14 of 69 (permalink) Old 03-11-2010, 01:25 PM
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Here's a good article from Stoptech explaining how to remove uneven pad deposits on your rotors that may lead you to believe you have warped rotors.

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_padremoval.shtml
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post #15 of 69 (permalink) Old 03-11-2010, 01:28 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pinhead66 View Post
Here's a good article from Stoptech explaining how to remove uneven pad deposits on your rotors that may lead you to believe you have warped rotors.

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_padremoval.shtml
Good Find. Well done sir....

I think this thread is starting to look like it could be a sticky.

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post #16 of 69 (permalink) Old 03-27-2010, 10:41 PM
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Thanks for the post! I will be doing my brakes soon as well. I think I am going with the Hawk HPS pads tho. I too have the russel SS lines.
This will be my first attempt at this. Could you give me a few pointers? I am totally comfortable with disassembling the brakes and have changed pads before, but never installed SS lines. Any tricks or special tools I will need to install the lines? Any suprises I might encounter?
Second area is bleeding the brakes. I have never done that and wondered if you have any tips for that. I appreciate the help!

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post #17 of 69 (permalink) Old 03-27-2010, 10:46 PM
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Read the "Installing SS lines" posts first.
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post #18 of 69 (permalink) Old 03-27-2010, 11:13 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the post! I will be doing my brakes soon as well. I think I am going with the Hawk HPS pads tho. I too have the russel SS lines.
This will be my first attempt at this. Could you give me a few pointers? I am totally comfortable with disassembling the brakes and have changed pads before, but never installed SS lines. Any tricks or special tools I will need to install the lines? Any suprises I might encounter?
Second area is bleeding the brakes. I have never done that and wondered if you have any tips for that. I appreciate the help!
I did not replace my lines. But after installing them it would still just be the normal bleeding procedure. As far as pointers go, I cant really think of anything that was out of the ordinary. If youre really anal about torque specs, I'd try to find a different source for the caliper bracket bolts. I've always just done "as tight as i can get it" on past cars. Always worked.

Oh, and a turkey baster comes in handy when bleeding. To remove as much old fluid from the resevoir as possible, before starting with the new fluid.

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post #19 of 69 (permalink) Old 03-30-2010, 04:45 PM
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They sell one-man bleeding kits at the auto parts store. They work well and come with instructions. I'll be bleeding my brakes soon. I'm a firm believer in it. You can feel the difference after you do it.

Water from the atmosphere get absorbed into the brake fluid. This water lowers the boiling point of the fluid, rusts internal brake parts and is more compressible than pure fluid leading to spongy brakes. DOT-4 is required by the way.
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post #20 of 69 (permalink) Old 04-08-2010, 03:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MichaelG8 View Post
Replacing your cars factory blank rotors with rotors that are the same diameter and cross drilled, is for appearances ONLY.

Tire rack sells Hawk pads, Centrik blank rotors and DBA's slotted and cross-drilled rotors
Great thread! I'm going to go with these Centrik blank rotors, when I need new rotors.....


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