DIY Carwash OR Garden Hose/Screw on Filter? - Pontiac G8 Forum: G8 Forums - G8Board.com
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post #1 of 31 (permalink) Old 05-12-2017, 05:20 PM Thread Starter
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Post DIY Carwash OR Garden Hose/Screw on Filter?

Hey all, for washing my Baby do you recommend DIY carwashes or using a garden hose with a filter? Also, do you have any recommendations for car wash kits that I could buy? Looking for some type of screw on filter/foam applicator and some good towels/pads.

Also, is it harmful that there's some paint chips on the front of the hood? If I wash the car with the bare metal is it going to corrode really quickly? She's never been driven in winter but I just got her and I don't want the hood to rust from washing. Should I do touch ups on the paint BEFORE I wash her? Obviously I wouldn't apply touch up paint when the car's been freshly wet but just looking for some advice here. I've never really had a nice car before so it's the first time I GAF. I had a nice bike but that was super easy to wash... tis a little different here.

Thanks!
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post #2 of 31 (permalink) Old 05-12-2017, 08:34 PM
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Is the hose water in your area bad with contamination? If not you shouldn't need a filter. There are foam guns out there you can buy but in my years as a professional detailer, I've been good with the old 2 bucket method and a regular garden hose.no filter.



As for the chips. Rust or not I'd have them filled in due to appearances. Dr. Color chips is a little pricey but easy to use. So I'd recommend that for your chips.

There's a guy i like to watch on youtube for detail advice. His name is Larry and has a company called auto ammo. He's great for advice. You want to be careful on who you get detailing advice from but he's almost always on point.
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post #3 of 31 (permalink) Old 05-12-2017, 10:49 PM
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Just use the two bucket method to wash with a quality car wash soap (I like Meguiars) and dry and detail with some good quality microfiber towels. Check out The Rag Company for good microfiber products.

Lots of good detailing videos on YouTube to pretty much answer any questions you might have. Ammo NYC, Chemical Guys, & Junkman (among many others) all have good tips for you.
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post #4 of 31 (permalink) Old 05-12-2017, 11:00 PM
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Cant speak for them all but junkman is one I'd say to be aware of his advice. I've corrected him a few times here and he doesn't listen. Hes just stuck in his ways. He's not always wrong but do be aware.

Larry is on a way higher level then most. Watch his vids compared to others and the type of cars he does and you'll understand why i say what I say. Explains things in good detail as well.

Only watched a couple chemical guy vids. One was on the various towels they offer. No complaints. But really haven't watched much of their stuff.

Get a few different opinions if you aren't sure on what you're being told. That's what I do. Hell. Sometimes I'll get a bunch. Go for a majority rule on a situation. Knowing who's giving the advice helps.
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KOOKS 1 7/8 mids and HFC's (coated)

SHOW:
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post #5 of 31 (permalink) Old 05-13-2017, 03:58 AM
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Adams 2 bucket has always worked well for me. They have videos as well to answer any questions that you would have.


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post #6 of 31 (permalink) Old 05-13-2017, 11:32 PM
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Bucket and hose works great, I've always used turtle wax zip wax car wash soap, very soapy rinses off easy and smells good, it's been used by family for over 40 years. As for as drying well my black g8 is very difficult to do without leaving fine (spider web) scratches behind with any micro fiber towels. I've compounded, micro polish,waxed looked awesome,washed with power washer then dried with micro fiber and there they were, in direct sun light spider webs, so re-polished waxed ,then used blower to dry and nothing, only way to dry them without any marks left behind ,if you can look into jet dryers for a perfect dry


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post #7 of 31 (permalink) Old 05-14-2017, 12:21 AM
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Sorry to hear about your issues tempest1. I sometimes wish I where there in person to see whats going on. Honestly, you shouldn't have any issues with microfiber towels. There has to be some factor somewhere and it can be a few different things. One easy culprit is the tag on the edge of the towels. Those leave fine scratches.

I know how it is and if you are really picky like myself. its hard. Chasing after every mark as soon as you see it and black is hard to maintain.

You may want to consider a separate bucket for wheels, rims and wheel wells during your process. Larry is now up to a 3 bucket system in his videos. I have been fine with 2.
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post #8 of 31 (permalink) Old 05-14-2017, 01:41 AM
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Yea I hear ya but no tag ever stays on a towel even got towels with no border yea to picky I'm about the only one who can see them and only seen with the right angle of light hitting the car but doesn't change the fact there still visible kinda like buffer swirl most people don't see it but I do and it drives me crazy but if it's not my car all's good, ps wheels always done last w/different wash mit

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post #9 of 31 (permalink) Old 05-14-2017, 08:24 AM
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Could be as simple as hard or soft water. Hard water has more minerals in it that could be abrasive.
+1 on Turtle wax zip car wash though right now using Simoniz, I buy whats on sale.
Black and White cars seem to be more prone to showing every imperfection in paint.
I also like to blame previous owners for not washing the car properly and leaving me with their mess to clean up....
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post #10 of 31 (permalink) Old 05-14-2017, 08:54 AM
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post #11 of 31 (permalink) Old 05-14-2017, 12:38 PM
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Quote:
Yea I hear ya but no tag ever stays on a towel even got towels with no border yea to picky I'm about the only one who can see them and only seen with the right angle of light hitting the car but doesn't change the fact there still visible kinda like buffer swirl most people don't see it but I do and it drives me crazy but if it's not my car all's good, ps wheels always done last w/different wash mit
Well its not the tags then.

I know what type of scratches you are referring too. I have been doing auto detail as a profession to for 20 years and to this day haven't had issues with microfiber towels, mits or wax application pads. Well not to say never. It does happen but its due to something being in the towel or application pad.

I work in a detail shop and as hard as I try. With 20 plus with co workers, its hard to baby sit everyone. Cant be around all the time. So I keep that in mind when detailing my car at work. I actually had it happen last week. Saw a spot and used a application pad and it was leaving fine marks. Had to bust out the buffer and correct it. I don't mind super fine marks but these definitely stuck out under the false lights. I like to do a test spot to see if it does leave marks before i do the whole car and thank god I did because it could have been a lot worse. If I went after every fine mark onmy car I'd have no paint left lol. You don't want to buff a car if your paint is at or below 3.5 millimeters. The paint system is comprimised beyond that point and wont protect the metal from corrosion.

Even though you are using a separate mit, are you dunking it in the same bucket? The reason for the 2 bucket system is to keep debris such as break dust from getting on the mit you use for the paint.
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EXHAUST: BADLANDZ CUT OUTS W/ X PIPE AND RESONATOR DELETE
KOOKS 1 7/8 mids and HFC's (coated)

SHOW:
PONTIAC EMBLEMS REMOVED. HOLDEN TRUNK LOGO ADDED.
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post #12 of 31 (permalink) Old 05-14-2017, 12:49 PM
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Quote:
+1 on Turtle wax zip car wash though right now using Simoniz, I buy whats on sale.
Black and White cars seem to be more prone to showing eve
Whatever car wash soap you guys choose. It helps to get one that is ph balanced. The higher the soap concentrate the quicker it will break down the wax on your ride.
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GO:
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EXHAUST: BADLANDZ CUT OUTS W/ X PIPE AND RESONATOR DELETE
KOOKS 1 7/8 mids and HFC's (coated)

SHOW:
PONTIAC EMBLEMS REMOVED. HOLDEN TRUNK LOGO ADDED.
TINT
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post #13 of 31 (permalink) Old 05-14-2017, 04:58 PM
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I've had good luck using Turtle Wax Ice Wash and Wax. I like the Ice Spray Detailer too.
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post #14 of 31 (permalink) Old 05-14-2017, 10:40 PM
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I use a different mit and bucket for wheels then a different mit and bucket on paint

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post #15 of 31 (permalink) Old 05-14-2017, 10:44 PM
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[QUOTE][
I use a different mit and bucket for wheels then a different mit and bucket on paint
/QUOTE]

Gotcha. That's good then.
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EXHAUST: BADLANDZ CUT OUTS W/ X PIPE AND RESONATOR DELETE
KOOKS 1 7/8 mids and HFC's (coated)

SHOW:
PONTIAC EMBLEMS REMOVED. HOLDEN TRUNK LOGO ADDED.
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post #16 of 31 (permalink) Old 05-15-2017, 07:51 AM
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Maybe try a great white drying towel from Adams, and don't rub it on the car? Just lay it on, smooth it out, then pick it up and go onto the next spot.

I used to own a body shop, and on really soft, or brand new clear, the only way I ever found I could wash something without leaving lines in the clear was like this:

-lot of soap; I like Adams car shampoo or maybe duragloss 905
-rinse the car
-if you take take the nozzle off the garden hose and let it run on the car, the water will make sort of a funnel shape as it hits the car and runs off. Use the wash mitt in that funnel of moving water. You have to use a lot of soap and move the hose simultaneously with your wash mitt.
-My theory is that the layer of moving water floats the debris off the car as opposed to trying to encapsulate the debris in soap and then remove it with the rinse step. I'm not sure if that's true or not, but that's what I think.

Doing that, and then laying the microfiber drying towel flat, smoothing it out, and picking it up (no rubbing with the microfiber to dry) that's the only way I've ever been able to wash one and have it come out nearly unblemished.

It's especially obvious the damage you are doing when you wash if the clear is brand new. I'd recommend that everyone go buy a harbor freight spray gun, a pint of clear and hardener, and a hood from the junkyard. Put down two coats of clear, get it out in the sun, and wash it with whatever method you are using. The brand new clear is flawless from a micromar standpoint, and it's really easy to see what your wash technique is doing - good or bad.

To the OP:

Even if you have hard water at home, I would probably do it there with your garden hose. I like Adam's car shampoo, it's pretty cheap ($10 a bottle or so) and if it dries on the car it's not a big deal, it still rinses very well.

The rock chips should be filled, but don't sweat making it rust by washing it a few times.
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post #17 of 31 (permalink) Old 05-15-2017, 08:13 AM
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A note on towels. Don't let the cheap, low GSM Walmart crap touch your paint. Get the good, high GSM stuff. I like what The a Rag Company sells, and they're cheaper than most places.
I use the 3 bucket method as well.
I also use the pooling rinse technique and blow dry the car when I'm done.
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post #18 of 31 (permalink) Old 05-15-2017, 10:47 AM
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^^^^Agreed on micro fiber towels. I stock up on Simoniz brand when there on sale, box store brands are sandpaper when compared.
Have to see if The Rag Company is available up here in the sticks.
Two wash mitts, one for car, one for rims.
Only on bucket, do car first, rims last.
***This policy is currently under review of of reading thru this thread, two bucket policy to be initiated.***
Sometimes just use garden hose, sometimes use sprayer to rinse.
Since I tend to be a clumsy oaf once and a while anything that hits the ground right in the trash.
Don't rewash micro fibres anymore and wash mitts replaced every six months or so just because.
Thanks guys lots of helpful advise on here.
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post #19 of 31 (permalink) Old 05-15-2017, 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by BAS G8 View Post
***two bucket policy to be initiated.***.
There's a one bucket method that I like, but it takes 3-4 mitts to do a G8. Essentially, instead of dipping the used mitt back in the wash bucket, the used mitt goes into the washing machine. Grab a new mitt and keep washing. It keeps all the debris out of the wash water. Lot's of one bucket videos on youtube.

It takes me 4 mitts to do the car, and then a 5th for the wheels.

If the paint / clear isn't corrected now (you've been using one mitt for the whole car, without a separate rinse bucket for awhile) then changing your wash method isn't likely to make a huge difference. Don't get me wrong, it's a good idea, but where the wash method really makes the most difference is on a car that is well polished and relatively defect free.

I wash my mitts after each use; except for the wheel mitt, it just gets sprayed out with the hose and hung up. I do the mitts in the clothes washer in the house; on the delicate cycle, no spin. I bought some Arm and Hammer "Free" detergent to use on the mitts, no colors or scents added, but I've stopped using it. Now, I don't rinse the mitts or anything, I just throw them in the washing machine still soaked with car shampoo.
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post #20 of 31 (permalink) Old 05-15-2017, 12:48 PM
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What's a nice wash mitt for not so much $?
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