Clockspring acting up....is Tech-II SAS reset required after replacement? - Pontiac G8 Forum: G8 Forums - G8Board.com
 
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post #1 of 4 (permalink) Old 07-11-2019, 10:59 AM Thread Starter
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Clockspring acting up....is Tech-II SAS reset required after replacement?

It all began over a year ago, when I replaced the engine, had the steering shaft disconnected from the rack, and turned the steering wheel to check clearances on something. When it came back together, I had a code that the steering angle sensor needed calibration. Pretty much ignored it for a year, and it would alarm every time I started the car, turning off stability/traction control (but not ABS).

Fast forward to a month or so ago, when I had to pull the header to repair it. I decided to GENTLY move the steering wheel from lock to lock, to ensure that I had it properly lined up and centered, before reattaching the shaft. To my surprise, the SAS alarm went away!

As the weeks have progressed, I began to notice that my steering wheel control functionality was going away, or intermittent at best. Scroll wheels for volume and channel selection work all of the time, but wheel press for mute and select no longer work, and the call start/end and DIC menu/Source buttons no longer function, when the interior is hot, after sitting in the sun at work all day.

When I jump in the car in the garage, in the morning, which cools down overnight from the A/C in the house (no, there's not a vent, but the unit is just on the other side of the door to the garage), every button works fine.

Obvious to me that heat is causing the contacts inside the coil to deflect and lose contact. I'm very familiar with rotary joint operation (RF antennas used to be a big part of my life).

Least expensive one I've found from someone I trust doing business with, is $370.

My question is - does the SAS need a recalibration with a Tech-II after installation of a new SR coil/clockspring installation? I've seen answers both ways, just looking for clarification.



Many thanks!

'09 Pontiac G8 GXP, A6, Sunroof, MGM, #1664 of 1829
LS3, with LSA Blower, ACE ported heads, BTR springs and retainers, Straub trunnion upgrade, RCR cam, Kooks LTs/mids, Hooker SS MaxFlow mufflers.
BMR Rear LCA's, stabilizers, end links, front LCA bushings, rear toe links/trailing arms, Pedders Street II kit, including subframe and diff bushings.
Hawk pads, Brake Performance slotted and dimpled rotors, Russell stainless lines, Super Blue fluid.
Best 1/4 time, then- 12.52 @ 114.47, 1.94 60ft.

Last edited by BigZub; 07-11-2019 at 03:12 PM.
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post #2 of 4 (permalink) Old 07-11-2019, 05:15 PM
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When the steering wheel sensor (with its included wire harness) is installed going down the assembly line (as well as anytime after that), it says that it has to be locked down in the correct manner (so says the manual). That being, that after it is held in place (but not secured) you have to rotate it in one direction until you can feel a slight tugging action on the wire loom. That should create approximately 6 coils. Then you back it off the other way until you now have 3 coils showing. At this point you want the connectors to be in the correct position for the steering wheel connector attachment. If necessary rotate the coil a touch left or right to attain that correct connector alignment, then you can lock it down. This coil count setup, allows the steering wheel to be turned full left an right *without* straining the wire loom. If somehow in the past, the steering wheel had been accidentally rotated (maybe even 1 turn in the added coil count from the above setup) before reconnecting to the steering shaft, it may have set up a wire strain/damaged condition on some of those tiny wires (just a guess on this). The coil assembly might very well end up just right (voltage wise) an require no further programming. I'm sue the system wants to see a zero voltage offset value (when going straight) This would allow any left or right steering action to produce the correct error voltage to the EBCM an ECM for corrective braking action/engine power control if or when the car gets into that (I'm loosing control of myself condition). It does say that the sensor should be checked/programmed for proper zeroing (if in doubt).




So the wiring is the equivalent of being hard wired, vs say, a slip ring design .
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post #3 of 4 (permalink) Old 07-11-2019, 06:48 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GOPHERIT View Post
So the wiring is the equivalent of being hard wired, vs say, a slip ring design .

Not a 'rotary joint' per se. Got it. Thanks.

'09 Pontiac G8 GXP, A6, Sunroof, MGM, #1664 of 1829
LS3, with LSA Blower, ACE ported heads, BTR springs and retainers, Straub trunnion upgrade, RCR cam, Kooks LTs/mids, Hooker SS MaxFlow mufflers.
BMR Rear LCA's, stabilizers, end links, front LCA bushings, rear toe links/trailing arms, Pedders Street II kit, including subframe and diff bushings.
Hawk pads, Brake Performance slotted and dimpled rotors, Russell stainless lines, Super Blue fluid.
Best 1/4 time, then- 12.52 @ 114.47, 1.94 60ft.
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post #4 of 4 (permalink) Old 07-11-2019, 07:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigZub View Post
My question is - does the SAS need a recalibration with a Tech-II after installation of a new SR coil/clockspring installation? I've seen answers both ways, just looking for clarification.



Many thanks!
I'm not sure, but you can buy your own Tech II: https://www.amazon.com/VXDIAG-Tech2W...91FGZAGPB&th=1

Avoid the dealer altogether. I purchased one back in September 2018 and it does work.

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