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Discussion Starter #1
I've narrowed down my cam options from recommendations from what I (and most of you) consider reputable sources. My options are:
BTR stage 2 LS3 cam 225/238 .620"/.605" 113+3 p/n 32538133R1

Or

PatG spec'd 225/232 .629"/.615" 112+3

The cams are clearly different but my question is what does that mean for each cam as far as power gains across the powerband. I know alot of people are running a Patg cam and alot are running the BTR stage 2 cam so if anyone wants to put in their 2 cents I'd appreciate that.

I asked my CTSV buddy and he suggested I buy both. Damn V owners I tell ya.
 

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At that level of lift and duration, they are so close it doesn’t matter which one you pick.
 
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Discussion Starter #3
At that level of lift and duration, they are so close it doesn’t matter which one you pick.
Thats what I was thinking. Probably go with whichever is cheapest. BTR is convenient because they have already created a mega parts list of parts, bolts, and gaskets ready for my credit card.. Also can't beat that free shipping.
 

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Who is doing the tuning? Will you need a convertor to complement the mods?

By the way, no such thing as free shipping - you are paying for it.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Who is doing the tuning? Will you need a convertor to complement the mods?

By the way, no such thing as free shipping - you are paying for it.
Shhhh, let me have my marked up parts pricing with "free" shipping. It helps sell it to the wife lmao.

I told both PatG and BTR I was planning on keeping the stock converter. I haven't found a tuner yet but I do know some local LS tuners.
 

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Fair enough. For tuning, consider that it's a package, engine and transmission. Make sure to vet the tuner on 6l80 experience.

Since you will have the front off the engine, add the double Idler AC bracket to the list. Now is the time to eliminate throwing the AC belt while living up in the RPM band.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Fair enough. For tuning, consider that it's a package, engine and transmission. Make sure to vet the tuner on 6l80 experience.

Since you will have the front off the engine, add the double Idler AC bracket to the list. Now is the time to eliminate throwing the AC belt while living up in the RPM band.
And a crank damper, mine has been wobbling since I got it a few months ago. Do you know the p/n for AC bracket? Does it require different belt size?
 

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Check with Greg Was at pace performance in the g8 superstore for the bracket (92252927). holdenpartsusa is another source. The belt is longer.
 

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Can also check with forum member wolfman1192 for the revised bracket.
 

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The new AC belt is 92244381.
 

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If anyone can tune Pat’s cam, I would ask Pat. Maybe a tune and cam package?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
If anyone can tune Pat’s , I would ask Pat. Maybe a tune and cam package?
I'm new to tuning, how accurate/effective can it be done long distance? I've seen the mail order tunes, I'm assuming they aren't as good as in person l, hands-on tuning?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
So Pat responded and said that the cams are basically the same, power wise. The only difference is his overlap is less than the BTR so it won't push the brakes as much resulting in a lower idle RPM. Interesting.
 

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Remote tune works. Grab hptuners, send tuner your existing calibration. With info of mods you have done they return a tune you load. Drive the car as normal with a few WOT runs and send back. Process repeats few times and done. I have used Pat, he's very good. I have even put video up on YouTube (private) for him to hear/watch along with the log. I'm pleased and impressed with his service/skills/knowledge. Much better than the first guy I used. There are a few other capible remote rune folks. Make sure you vet them before committing.
 

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I’d buy it all from Pat and see if you can get a package deal. I had him remote tune and it’s awesome. I’d say better than a dyno tune and each tune doesn’t require a dyno session.
What’s a dyno tune? $500? But how much is each retune at the dyno? I say it’s almost impossible to get the tune right the first time and I bet they will have to datalog to tune the drivability anyway.

Pat is pricey but you get as many tunes as needed to get the package right AND you get TCM Turing included
 

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This modifying stuff can get expensive real quick.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I'm not really concerned about price at the moment. I'm well aware how expensive it can get. I'm just trying to get the most bang for my buck given my options. How much does a remote tune by Pat usually cost?
 

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I paid about $850 for the HP Tuners obd11 dongle. Which also includes the data logging and OBD11 scan. This also includes Pat’s remote tuning which is about $500. It’s in his site.
Also in my area, you have to schedule dyno tunes 30 days out. If you hate your tune, you gotta wait another 30’days and who knows how much they charge for that. And you can’t use the HP tuners data logging or OBD11 scanning. Of course you can tune on your own if you want after.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I decided to go with the BTR cam. It would be great having a PatG cam and having him tune it but I just talked with BTR more and got comfortable talking to them. Tuning will be done by a local shop recommended by my buddy with a CTSV.

I do have a few questions and may post more when I think of them.

The wobbling balancer, I've heard it's "normal". Should I replace it with an oem style one or get a fancy UDP?

I tried to find some general torque specs for... the whole job really. I've heard ARP head bolts require different torque compared to oem style bolts?

I'm also looking for some either some LTH's or a CAI/OTR intake. Wife has informed me I can only chose one right now, which should I do first? I would assume exhaust first would result in more noticeable gain over the intake.
 

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Dampener - future proof yourself, go with ATI superdamper. Get one of their bolts too. And torque wrench to 250ft lbs. Arp head bolt will tighten to a ft/lb spec. Factory is tq to yield which is torque to ft/lb then additional x degree rotation
 
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