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might as well order the cam sensor now.
 

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The vcm intake does come with a vacuum line although unsure it replaces the damaged line shown in post #48. Car should run albeit terrible. Perchance do you have roadside assistance or towing coverage on the G8?
 

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Might as well get some ported heads too. Haha

Are the cam and crank sensors unreliable?
My experience - the cam sensor does not come out in one piece. If it worked, leave in -otherwise get a new one as it's unlikely to come out in one piece.
Beware of the cam retainer bolts - known to want to stay put. May consider a straub unit with oil channels.
183631
 

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Discussion Starter #66
Well I know what a new bearing looks like. This looks pretty rough but does it need replacing? I can't really see the others but I'm assuming they look similar to this.
20210214_171210.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #67
Decided to go with kooks LT's instead of the VCM (for now). While I was loosening the oil pan, I realized the connection from the manifolds looks smaller than a 3" (probably obvious). What is the normal course of action when installing them? Do I need to go to a muffler shop for some fab work?
 

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That cam bearing doesn't look too terrible. It's the #2 bearing you need to get a close look at. The split in the #2 journal on the cam causes excess wear on that bearing.
 

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Discussion Starter #69
All the bearings look way better than the first, including the #2 bearing. Rod and main bearings look fine also.

Couple questions though:

When I go to send the block to the machine shop, should I send it with main caps installed? Are the main cap bolts and rod bolts reusable?

And

Does anyone have literature on reassembly (torque specs, sequences etc) this is my first time tearing this engine all the way down, just wanna make sure I can put it back together without breaking anything.
 

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All the bearings look way better than the first, including the #2 bearing. Rod and main bearings look fine also.

Couple questions though:

When I go to send the block to the machine shop, should I send it with main caps installed? Are the main cap bolts and rod bolts reusable?

And

Does anyone have literature on reassembly (torque specs, sequences etc) this is my first time tearing this engine all the way down, just wanna make sure I can put it back together without breaking anything.
see post 21 for specs
 

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Discussion Starter #72
Decided to throw in a converter while am I here. "Might as well" seems to be a trend. How would I go about picking one? I want it to be reasonably tame but also ok to use with a larger cam if I decide to upgrade the cam later on.
 

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Discussion Starter #73
Well came across another issue. After waiting a month with no updates on my kooks LTH's, I finally got an update yesterday saying they shipped. Tonight I get an email saying oops nevermind, they're discontinued and the new p/n costs significantly more. 2420h430 is the new p/n for the LTH's with the green cats and they're $3k compared to the regular LTH's that were $1k. Yeah I'd say that's significant. Can anyone point me in a direction to get some for around 1k? Saw someone had some for sale but they aren't responding.
 

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At least one member has stated the Kooks green catalytic converters are better than the regular ones, but a set of the "originals" are getting harder to find. Are you willing to consider a different brand of headers?
 

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Discussion Starter #75
At least one member has stated the Kooks green catalytic converters are better than the regular ones, but a set of the "originals" are getting harder to find. Are you willing to consider a different brand of headers?
I'm willing to use a different brand. I did some research last night and found Texasspeed has a header/xpipe system for a similar price. I'm sure the green cat headers are better, given that they're triple the price of the regular ones.
 

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Discussion Starter #76
I'm replacing the pistons rings while the engine is disassembled. I thought it would be as easy as "just buy some rings" but I see there are several options available. How do I know which ones I need? Keeping stock pistons and only work to cylinders was a fresh hone. Out of curiosity I asked for some at autozone and they wanted like $370 for a Sealed Power set. Meanwhile I see other sets online around 60-80. Not looking to break any horsepower records or anything, just want it to run as good as new.
 

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if you have plans for a blower, open up the ring gaps now.
 

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