[brentsten]

Anyone know where I can find a power source inside the car that with [email protected] on and powers off at key off? I need it for my LC1. I've been using the cigarette lighter in the console for power, but sometimes I listen to the radio in the car with the key off and the LC1 stays powered via RAP.

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[[email protected]]

you can try connector located on the right side behind glove box

pin 2 PK/BU Ignition 1 Voltage
http://www.jhpss.com/Pontiac-G8/PDF/ConnectorVIMbackupswitch.pdf

 

[brentsten]

Do you happen to know where that line is fused or on what circuit? I need at least 5 amps per the innovate manual.

 

[[email protected]]

im sure its over 5 amp

 

[GOPHERIT]

So the thought of opening any of the 4 doors (which kills that accy outlet power after key off) is annoying. An if its the *drivers* door that is opened, you of course would also loose the radio. But you of course could just touch the radio *on* button, an have it turn back on for X amount of time (maybe up to 1 hour) or until the battery feels that its reserve power is being infringed upon. Then push the button to turn it back off, at any time.
I'll also look to see if there is any power source wiring available that will shutdown at *key off*. Maybe there is some unused circuit stowed, that fits this situation.

 

[[email protected]]

I'll also look to see if there is any power source wiring available that will shutdown at *key off*. Maybe there is some unused circuit stowed, that fits this situation.

post 2 ?

 

[brentsten]

Wow.. I didn't even think you were serious until I just got out of the car with the key out, then got back in and turned the radio on. That's awesome.. I swear I'm going to be finding stuff out that this car can do long after its gone.

I could make a switch for it, but I don't want to look at it. If it was hidden, I'd forget to turn it on and kill the sensor prematurely. It's fine for now, but half of the time I'll sit in my car for a minute or two after I park and respond to texts/emails. Just annoying to pop the door everytime.

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[GOPHERIT]

^^^^ The problem with what you want to do using ignition power (key on/off) function looks like a lack of power available. The ignition switch uses a 2A fuse for its duties of energizing the ignition circuits (which includes the ignition power relay R14). That relay *when* energized, powers 4 fuses and all of them are 10A size. If the loads already allocated to those 4 fuses is somewhat full (so to speak), you might cause an overload if that add on circuit is 5amps (as I read).
The only logical one of the 4 fuse circuits to work with, is the one controlling your heated seats/onstar circuit. *If* you want to try that, it doesn't look very bad at all (due the wire location) an where you would want to have a dedicated power source adapter/plugin as I seem to be envisioning it.

 

[[email protected]]

:slap: Pin 2 which I am referring to is a 10AMP fuse and was designed to power Bluetooth and Navigation module which G8 cars never got.

 

[GOPHERIT]

^^^^ That's why I'm having trouble following you. I don't see or seem to have any WD's in my service manuals that relate to this. Nor can I locate any position in the 3 fuse boxes, that show a 10A fuse relating to what your posting about. Let alone tied into the switched ignition circuit. But if you have done things in the past either for yourself, or for other owners, that have used that connector your talking about, it must be a workable solution that's available.

 

[brentsten]

:slap: Pin 2 which I am referring to is a 10AMP fuse and was designed to power Bluetooth and Navigation module which G8 cars never got.

I'm just guessing here, but wouldn't bluetooth and nav also be a retained accessory? If you parked and shut off the car, it would end your phone call. I'd like to believe that it would be engineered to keep the call in progress in that instance.

Currently, there are spade connectors crimped to the LC1 leads and the cigarette lighter plug. I suppose I could just hookup an ammeter and seen what it's actually pulling. The LC1 manual doesn't give a max fuse size, just a minimum. I'm not really sure what it needs, but it'll be more than the heated o2 circuit. <--- brainstorm - The rear o2s are disconnected; I may be able to use that.

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[GOPHERIT]

^^^ That looks workable. All the wiring of course is at the fuse box and ECM, then works its way down to those rear O2 sensors. Yes the fuse is F32-15A (emissions #2), an it shows that those 2 sensors are (were) its only load applied to it. But it sounds like your going to have punch thru the sheet metal (somewhere), to get at that wiring.