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Discussion Starter #1
So I am having an issue where the driver rear door won't lock/unlock via remote, the center console or the door switch. But I am also having an issue where the window won't go Up/Down from either switch; the center console or door switch. The door locks/unlocks and opens manually without any problems.

I've done research and seen the posts about the lock itself going bad, but my problem also involves the window. So before I go buying parts I wanted to see if anyone has experienced this issue before and could offer advice.

Edit: all three other doors operate exactly as they should from the key fob, console switches, and door switches for locking/unlocking and window operation.

Thanks
 

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May want to check the continuity on the ground wires, not sure if the windows and locks share a ground but if they do broken wire could explain both. It's a remote chance though as the rear doors do not get all that much use to break a wire but I would eliminate that possibility before buying new parts.

Us PPV guys usually see broken wires in the drivers door loom around 100K, but you can imagine how much use a police vehicle drivers door gets in it's life.

EDIT: Actually thinking about it more the window ground is alternating in the switches so that would not share a ground with the locks. May just want to see if the connector came unplugged? If you only open your drivers rear door does the dome light come on in the car?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Hey Guys, thanks for the replies. I may end up needing new parts but I wanted to do some troubleshooting before I just bought stuff.

SMWalker: I have the door panel off and when I removed the connector at the window switch it was securely connected. I will double check the connectors on the window motor and door lock actuator.
Do you know if I need the switch at the door connected to operate the locks/window from the console switch? Also, is there a pin-out of the window switch available somewhere? I could use a multi-meter to test that I have 12V etc. at that connector.
Lastly I will check the dome light thing when I got out to my car next, that's is a good idea that could indicate something I guess.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
So I checked and the dome lights turn on when I open the door. And if I lock the rest of the doors and open the door when it's unlocked the alarm will go off. So the vehicle knows the status of the door, open or closed. I wanted to post some pics of the window switch connector but it appears I can't post attachments yet, too bad.
 

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I don't know which wire is which, but I'd use a multi-meter to check for voltage across all given pairs of pins and continuity to ground from each. It would help to find a pinout diagram first, but I don't know where one is.
 

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" IamELi". To better understand where you stand, verify if your right rear door *will* illuminate the door ajar symbol each time that right rear door is opened, as well as cancel each time the door is latched closed. Also verify that your right rear door speaker works correctly.My read is that you have the right combination of at least 2 open/broken wires. As suggested by "J Wikoff" it would quickly narrow down what happened here if you had access to a meter an the help of a friend. In the past, there have been a few problems with the wiring from the B pillar into the door itself with wiring breakdown within the rubber transition boot. If you want to T/S these circuits, we can post up info as to where/what to read with the meter, to eliminate a lot of things.




"KendallLe" Sounds like you already know whats wrong. If that is so, I feel its easy enough to get a part(s) to correct the problem. But if your not into doing that sort of thing, a GM service department would be happy to do it for you (for a price).
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Hey guys, thanks for all the information.

I did check for interior light illumination when opening and closing the door and it works correctly, the lights turn on when I open it and turn off when I close it. The speaker in the door works as well

Thank you very much for the pin-out, I have a multi meter so I'll check that tonight and see what's going on. I'm afraid I do have some crushed/broken wires bc it's weird they would both stop working like that.

I'll report back soon.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Hey Pony Man, that link appears broken. Can you check it because the pin out would be awesome.
Thanks.
 

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Just checked the link and it worked. PM sent.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Alright guys, I tested the connector at the door using the wiring schematic. I connected my multimeter, with black lead to ground, to each wire and got the following.
12v using the console switch for window down, purple wire
0v using the console switch for window up, dark green wire
12v constant from one of the two blue wires to gnd

Can I get some thoughts on the results? I guess I'm confused bc the above results would indicate I could roll the window down but not up. Also, the door switch doesn't operate the windows either way at all either but it has 12v for window down.
 

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That shows me that you have good voltage at the right places, arriving at your right rear door window control switch. With the rear window control switch reconnected, you should disconnect the window motor connector. Connect the meter across those 2 pins, an read 12 volts positive one way an 12 volts negative the other way. when the window switch from the console and the door switch itself are cycled for up an down control. Having a 12 volt lamp/with leads would actually be the best, because it would create a load (like the motor itself) on the circuit. Wiring (can at times) actually be bad (an unable to supply good power under a load), but the multi meter reading can still give you the impression that all is OK.


You could also do the same power testing with the meter at the door latch actuator, by putting the meter across pins 5 an 6 of that connector. Then cycle the lock/unlock console switch, to see if 12 volts shows up positive an negative.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
So here are my results from the testing that Gopherit recommended.

With the door switch installed and my multimeter across the two pins of the window motor connector I got the following:

Door Switch UP: 12v
Door Switch DN: 0v
Console Switch UP: 0v
Console Switch DN: 0v

I then disconnected the door switch and tested across the pins again and got the following:

12v to gnd using the console switch DN, purple wire
0v to gnd using the console switch UP, dark green wire
12v constant from one of the two blue wires

The above information leads me to believe I have a bad door switch? Is that correct or am I misinterpreting the results.
Thanks for all the help guys.
 

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This is fun (in a way),but is sure tough on my eyes an mind. My read (at this time), is that the right rear window control switch is bad in the console. In order for the window to go down, the *up portion* of that up/down switch *must* go to a ground return for the window to go down. If the window were actually down a bit, I feel *it would go up* when requested. Take the door connector back off an set the meter up to look for continuity from pin #3 (D-GN) to a good ground source. If open is indicated, something has failed within that right rear window switch on the console. In the meantime I'll work on the door latch/unlatch problem while you test the above (if you want to). The more I read your posts, the more I have to re-read, an I think I'm messing myself up.


Added info----- All of the door lock an unlock action from the key fob an console happens thru the BCM. There are 3 relays used to make all of the doors do their thing. The lock relay (when energized), causes all 5 latch actuators to move to the lock position. You know that relay is good due to 4 of the 5 locks work correctly. One unlock relay is dedicated to the drivers an fuel door actuators. They work correctly, so its OK. The other unlock relay controls the remaining 3 doors. Since 2 of those 3 work correctly, it's OK also. Its probably not real easy to get to the door latch actuator connector. But to best eliminate the actuator itself, your going to have to do just that. Then look for 12 volts at pin # 5 (D-GN/WH) to a good ground source when pressing the LOCK button. If OK, test pin # 2 (BN/RD) for 12 volts to ground the same way when pressing the UNLOCK button.





Corrected wording as necessary at 8:08 PM local (hope its right this time)
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Hey gopherit, thanks for all the assistance. To clarify, this is the left rear door I'm having issues with, hence the wire color confusion.
That doesn't change the results though, I do not get any voltage across the green wire and a few different ground sources. So if you're saying I *should* have 12v across the green wire and ground when I operate the console switch then it appears that's bad.
Does the console switch complete the circuit form the door switch? Is that why I get nothing for UP from the door switch?
Could this also be the source of lock/unlock problems as well? I couldn't get to the connector for the lock today, I'll try again tomorrow and let you know. The only hangup I have is I don't have a light meter, only the multimeter, but I'll try anyways.

Edit: just saw all the added info for the lock problem, thank you very much. I assumed kind of the same thing as every other lock works as intended. I've heard the actuators do go bad on these cars, but I want to test anyways.
 

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This shows how easy it is for me to mess up (as in left or right side of the car). Anyhow, if you were to jump pins 1 to 3 and 5 to 6 on the disconnected door mounted window switch, you can run a test to either eliminate or prove bad, that left rear door window switch. Power and grounds for both up an down would now be coming from the console window switch (an taking the door switch out of the circuit), straight to the window motor. If doing nothing, both motor wires must read to ground. When the switch is moved to get action either up or down, one or the other wires must revert to a 12 volt to ground condition. The outcome helps determine where an how far back up towards the console switch
 
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