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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Still planning a 2300 maggie upgrade but am also getting the other parts I want to add. Triple HSV gauge pod, oil cooler, etc. My question is will the stock fuel pump keep up with a 2300 maggie with a 3.0" pulley running roughly 8 psi boost??

Thanks Tom
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I have installed them on customers cars, just didnt want to do a bunch of wiring if I can help it.
 

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OlderByTheMinute
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Still planning a 2300 maggie upgrade but am also getting the other parts I want to add. Triple HSV gauge pod, oil cooler, etc. My question is will the stock fuel pump keep up with a 2300 maggie with a 3.0" pulley running roughly 8 psi boost??

Thanks Tom
Running the stock 3.375 pulley that came with the 2300 and no issue
6lbs of boost. If I considered adding any more then a fuel pump boost
would be a priority for sure! Have fun with the mods! Brian.
 

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I have a similar issue. I will be installing a CTS-V pump & Vaporworx controller later this week. Better to be safe than sorry. Cheers.
 

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My brother is running a 2300 on his Camaro with a boost-a-pump and I thought he should consider upgrading it too. He asked Andy at Livernois and this was his reply......

there is some truths and some misconceptions in the email below. I will try to sort them out. A Boost-a-Pump is a voltage step-up box. When voltage increases, electronic devices run at a higher efficiency to a certain limit. A boost-a-pump can actually make the pump more reliable since it is running a higher voltage level than normally allowed. Now, you can run too much voltage, and burn up the pump, but this is if it is set up wrong and adjusted to high. For this reason we never max out the BAP. We use it around 40% capacity. Now, there have been upgraded fuel pumps (we have made one for years) but they aren't needed at this level.
Thank you,
Andy Ricketts


I hope Andy doesn't mind me quoting him but he has always given us great advice. It is just his opinion so don't read too much into what he is saying but I thought it would be appropriate for this thread. They do this day in and day out so it's hard to ignore his knowledge/experience.
 

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Some people have also been able to drop the ZL1 fuel pump in, which I would think would be the same or very close to the CTS-V pump.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Yeah, I asked my computer tuner and he said a drop in ZL1 pump should be fine for the setup I plan to go with. Think I am going to start with it and if any problems arise then add a BAP.
 

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Cars are my hobby...
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I have a ZL1 fuel pump, with a F-Body regulator and Vaporworx adapter. I just haven't had time to post anything up in the FS section yet. I also have the side pickup that mates up with the ZL1 pump. All you would need is the connectors and the quick connect fuel line for in the tank.

I upgraded mine to a Squash setup because the ZL1 pump couldn't keep up with my setup. AFR was at 13 with it (no boost-a-pump).

PM if you're interested and I'll make a post in the FS section later today.
 

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By what I understand the zl1 pump is a drop in replacement. Is this right?
Yes and no.




Yes it fits... but
  1. The electrical connector isn't the right size. This is a cheap part but requires removing the wires and using the ZL1 wire connector. Took me about 10 minutes to do and a few days of asking questions to get the wiring order correct.
  2. The side pickup quick connect fuel line is also a different size. You either need convert it to the right size like Shane did, or drop in the ZL1 pickup and also switch the connector like I did.
  3. It requires the FBody regulator which is purchased separately.
  4. It requires the Vaporworx adapter so the car can idle without being flooded.
Only one exception I do not know about. If the GXP uses different electrical connection than the GT... I could be wrong. I am not sure what the GXP uses as I did this in my GT.

I should also add, it was a very tight fit with the fuel line rotation because it's at such an awkward angle (the Zl1 pumps fuel connector is a different angle than the stock GTs one). You could end up bending the line that connects to your new ZL1 pump, so you need to be really careful. I modded my pump a little to allow it to rotate more to release the tension.
 

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I ran a 3.1 to 500 on a dynapack. Fuel was borderline.
IMO a BAP is a bandaid. Just like meth in a lot of situations (drugs are bad, mmmkay!)

Going with the squash gave me reliable and consistant fuel pressure that would support ANYTHING I could put in the car.
 

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Yep, I couldn't agree more. I wish I did it the first time around, that's for sure!
 

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I've been running a KB boostapump for a year and 5 months now with zero issues. Low 500's to the wheels. I am probably going to drop another pulley size or 2 and seeing if I can hit 550 rwhp with the bap.


Sent from AutoGuide.com App
 

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It's not that a KB won't work or last, it's that they are less likely to work compared to a proper setup. I would use it only as a Band-Aid until I could afford to do it right.

A boost-a-pump is half the price towards a proper fuel setup. Why not just spend the extra money?
 

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I had the Magnuson version of the BAP hooked up to my car when I had my Maggie originally installed, prior to having my cam installed, and it just didn't seem to work. I'm positive it was hooked up correctly, but my fuel pressure would go from 58psi to 48-50psi at WOT. My AFR was still fine, but I didn't like it.

I upgraded to a dual pump setup when I had my cam installed. I've got plenty of fuel now. I probably could have got by with the ZL1 setup or CTS-V setup, but those solutions came out after I made my decision to go the route I did. I also didn't like the BAP idea, even though I have not heard of a single G8 with one installed have an engine failure.
 
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