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Discussion Starter #1
I would like to put out there who ever said 6.5 " speakers are an option for the rear door speakers maybe forgot to mention the amount of fabrication it takes to make them fit properly. They don't fit the original door mounts first of all. They don't mount flush with the sheet metal. An adapter is definitely needed unless you have mad fabrication skills. Just replace them with 6".
I also wanted to mention what I found that caused the speakers to quit. Rust and corrosion at the electrical connections. They wrapped the harness to the speakers with was a sponge like material. That was soaked and keeping wetness on the connector causing the rust and corrosion. The speaker adapter to the sheet metal of the door has a shield at the top. But the water travels down the harness right to the sponge cover and holds the moisture on the connection. This reminds me of the joint sealer GM used in the 70's that basically was a sponge like material that would hold moisture at the untreated sheet metal and rotted it out. What were they thinking?
Anyway I worked the speaker adapters so they would work with the 6.5" speakers. Allot of massaging,and allot of time to make them fit. Just use 6".:surprise:
 

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I have 6.5's mounted in the stock mounts.. some run larger then advertised. What model did you go with?
 

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You just have to check the needed cutout size. 5" is what you got to work with. Some 6.5" speakers will work, some won't. This is the reason I made a shelf speaker system for my garage with a pair of Rockford Fosgate 6.5" speakers that needed a 5.5" cutout.

Me, I'd aim for some Infinity Kappas and add in a water tight foam baffle thing. There are lots of choices on Amazon. I had a Kappa go bad (rust in the pole after several years, which is why I recommend the baffles), and ended up replacing recently with the Polk DXI651. The Infinitys sounded better.
 

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6.5's fit just fine. you will always need an adapter, but it's plastic man, just screw into the mount it can be done with pressure and a screwdriver.

however you're right about corrosion. battled it on all my doors. a lot of electrical tape and even pain on rubber insulator has been the only cure.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yeah I get it but I had to Route out allot of material to make them fit. Yeah no interference with the door panel. I used electrical tape. I stripped as much of the foam wrap off that I could. I also used marine grade terminals, when you heat them a sealing glue makes it water proof. I didn't want to force anything. I like it to look stock, Right, most can understand.
 
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