[tomjen89]

I fried the trans and I am currently having it rebuilt. I just talked to the shop and looked at the damages
The problem was that the trans was slipping, dropping out of third gear, upon inspection they found fluid was burnt and some metallics were in the fluid, (I purchased a used rebuilt trans off a member while I was waiting to get mine rebuilt.)
Now my trans is 95%together and I am being told that there my be an issue with the pump, that there are numerous complaints about it, that there's a fix but he is having a hard time getting the right repair info. :banghead: Looking for possible service bulletin numbers.
If you have experienced this problem and or know the fix please chime in. Thanks in advance.

Side note no matter what anyone tells you about not needing a trans cooler with aftermarket stall. Do Not Listen to Them. :banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead:



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[ExpLiciTSainT]

Even with a trans cooler, mine stays near 200 degrees. Where did you get your transmission rebuilt?

 

[tomjen89]

I am using a local trans shop. He has been doing a lot of research and is only looking out for my best interests.

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[tomjen89]

His main concern at this time is the amount of heat damage. Which he feels could be attributed to the pump.

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[elephantrider]

always always always run a trans cooler with a stall.

 

[tomjen89]

always always always run a trans cooler with a stall.

I was told from/ by Yank "it was only a 2800 it'll be fine" he said.

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[elephantrider]

thats why you always always always get it in writing

 

[bluegoat06]

+1, get a trans cooler with any aftermarket verter regardless of stall rpm. You won't believe even the stocker needs one until you see the trans fluid when hot in the summer

 

[jpG8GT]

Yup. Stock converter has huge heat issues. I have seen a 40-50 degree drop with mine already this year in regular driving. Major difference. It is the size of most intercoolers though. Lol. 1 extra quart of fluid also. I have quick connect lines just like factory so I can run in series in cold weather or bypass factory cooler in summer and track use.


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[kgenesse]

I fried the trans and I am currently having it rebuilt. I just talked to the shop and looked at the damages
The problem was that the trans was slipping, dropping out of third gear, upon inspection they found fluid was burnt and some metallics were in the fluid, (I purchased a used rebuilt trans off a member while I was waiting to get mine rebuilt.)
Now my trans is 95%together and I am being told that there my be an issue with the pump, that there are numerous complaints about it, that there's a fix but he is having a hard time getting the right repair info. :banghead: Looking for possible service bulletin numbers.
If you have experienced this problem and or know the fix please chime in. Thanks in advance.

Side note no matter what anyone tells you about not needing a trans cooler with aftermarket stall. Do Not Listen to Them. :banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead:



Sent from my SPH-D710

The only issue I am aware of is that the sealing rings leak between the pump stator support and the 1-2-3-4 and 3-5-R drum. They have a TSB on it and they corrected it with a new pump and sealing rings. 2009 models were supposedly updated, so maybe you have an early 2009 car with a leftover 2008 6L80?

You say it was falling out of third...that can be attributed to those sealing rings as the 3-5-R clutch is what applies third.

 

[tomjen89]

The only issue I am aware of is that the sealing rings leak between the pump stator support and the 1-2-3-4 and 3-5-R drum. They have a TSB on it and they corrected it with a new pump and sealing rings. 2009 models were supposedly updated, so maybe you have an early 2009 car with a leftover 2008 6L80?

You say it was falling out of third...that can be attributed to those sealing rings as the 3-5-R clutch is what applies third.

Yes I have the early 2009.
The concern is that the pump is/was not maintaining the constant pressure to hold the car on gear. From what he told me this wasn't properly addressed until the 2010 model year, with an upgraded pump. We are trying to figure if there is a rebuild kit with upgraded parts or just buy a new pump?

Falling out of gear, like a clutch slipping or trans flare.
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[kgenesse]

Yes I have the early 2009.
The concern is that the pump is/was not maintaining the constant pressure to hold the car on gear. From what he told me this wasn't properly addressed until the 2010 model year, with an upgraded pump. We are trying to figure if there is a rebuild kit with upgraded parts or just buy a new pump?

Falling out of gear, like a clutch slipping or trans flare.
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I've never heard of actual pump problems, butiff you have the early style pump/sealing rings ypu have to throw the pump away anyways. Just get the latest pump which should come with the updated rings.

 

[jpG8GT]

I can't say I ever saw pump
Problems on the 6 speeds. 3-5R clutch assembly has issues. I put the updated 3-5r assembly, seal and pump in mine to get rid of 2-3 shift flare. That's not saying a pump can't go bad. Anything can go bad.


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[gr8lover]

you can do one of two things.... align the ring seals all the same way looking at the molded portion of the rings, or do it the right way and replace the stator shaft which is part of the pump asm and get the latest style.... the new style pump will have a small notch in each of the ring grooves which provides orientation and will not allow ring seals to rotate... also with this you put orings under each of the ring seals... if you have a pump without orientation tabs in it, you cannot put orings under the ring seals...

the pump issue thought was that under low rpm the shifts would not have enough pressure due to the pump being a variable displacmeent pump and oil seeping by the ring seals... with the new desinged stator shaft/pump the addition of the orings with the ring seals makes it a ton better!!!

look for the pump kit they have for us,... like some of the others said, it should come with new rings seals and orings... good luck...

 

[gr8lover]

Yup. Stock converter has huge heat issues. I have seen a 40-50 degree drop with mine already this year in regular driving. Major difference. It is the size of most intercoolers though. Lol. 1 extra quart of fluid also. I have quick connect lines just like factory so I can run in series in cold weather or bypass factory cooler in summer and track use.


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6L80 stock converters from a historical standpoint have absolutely no heat issues at all.... unless you track it and beat the crap out of it... we have a extremely low % with converter and heat issues...... it actually has the perfect converter in it so as to not overheat... but you can have your opinion... all I have is facts and data....

 

[The Yeti]

I bought a trans cooler that is sitting at a friends house instead of my car. My trans temps don't even come close to touching 200 with my Circle D 2600 stall. Doesn't matter if I am at the track or sitting in stop and go traffic. Trans temps are fine for me. Guess I'm a lucky one...

 

[Troy Trackbeast]

I bought a trans cooler that is sitting at a friends house instead of my car. My trans temps don't even come close to touching 200 with my Circle D 2600 stall. Doesn't matter if I am at the track or sitting in stop and go traffic. Trans temps are fine for me. Guess I'm a lucky one...

Same here, I'm running a PI 2600 triple disk and my cooler is still sitting over at ricks waiting for me to get back to it.

Highest I've seen my temps are 85 C. I want to get it in but just haven't had time...


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[jpG8GT]

You guys are lucky. When I'm on the track temps will get 110-115c. That's a little high for my liking. Normal driving im at 65c in 70 degree weather. Huge improvement over stock cooler. The problem is the stock cooler does not cool it down once the tranny temps exceed the coolant temps. Stock cooler is good for some 1/4 runs and normal driving. I could get about 5 laps before tranny temp light would come on. Every car is different. Remember proper tranny temps are around 150-180 F.


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[Likwid]

There is an updated pump cover with different sealing rings, the p/n is 24248573. The updated pump cover fixes the shift flare. Correct alignment is critical so I would make sure that he has the correct pump alignment tool, Adapt-A-Case has one for a reasonable price, the p/n for that is T-46664AC

 

[gr8lover]

There is an updated pump cover with different sealing rings, the p/n is 24248573. The updated pump cover fixes the shift flare. Correct alignment is critical so I would make sure that he has the correct pump alignment tool, Adapt-A-Case has one for a reasonable price, the p/n for that is T-46664AC

The tool is nice to have but not really necessary.... just make sure you line up the pump body centered to the torque converter housing lip- you can do it by feel... I have done it a million times but its pretty self explanatory once you see it...