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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I was using the 16 pin socket behind the glovebox, and was using a female power socket. I switched from the ignition 1 tab, then the accessory, and now I was officially using the positive voltage. That was the only one that did not provide a whine when accelerating. But the downside was that the power was being provided indefinately. So I decided to add a switch to the setup to cut off power when I wanted to. But now my problem is that while I turn on my car, turn on the switch, and when I try to turn off the car by turning the ignition and taking it out, the engine is still running! I discovered by kicking my footwell, where my wires and fuse is running right above, it turned my car off. At times while attempting to turn my car off, instead it revs my engine! And then when trying things out, while engine is off, by hitting it it'll turn on the car! So for now I just disconnected my wires from the connector to the positive voltage. Why is that happening? Should I tap into the radio power instead, and that also won't give off the whine?
 

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Undo whatever you've done, put down the wire stripper and step away from the car. When you can understand the wiring diagrams and the difference between a switched ignition circuit and a constantly powered circuit you can try again. You might consider posing your plan before making changes as well.
 

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Sorry I don't have an answer for you, but mine does almost the same thing and I felt I was going crazy the first time I removed my key and the car started back up while I was staring at the removed key in my hand. Strange as it is I found out with mine at least I can turn the headlight switch to off and it kills the motor. I discovered this issue shortly after purchase and have not done any wiring myself that should be causing it. I figure that eventually ill have to track down the problem but for now it only happens about 10-20% of the time on shut off and turning the switch is simple enough. Hope you get this figured out!


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What was the reason for messing with that connector in the first place ? Also what IS that connector normally used for, that made it so inviting ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
This sounds dumb.
I open a thread to seek help, not to be bashed and be thrown by otherwise useless comments for some.

What was the reason for messing with that connector in the first place ? Also what IS that connector normally used for, that made it so inviting ?
That connector is unused. It was used by many users for their backup camera or relay, which I too used. One pin is for backup lamp. And the ignition 1 was used for some, an additional power socket. But it is known that it provides a whine when using to power a composite convertor and mhl to hdmi/apple tv, which I also faced.

But this thread is no longer needed, as i found a solution in the below link, where I now derive my power and ground from the radio.

http://www.g8board.com/forums/showthread.php?t=62275&page=2
 

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I open a thread to seek help, not to be bashed and be thrown by otherwise useless comments for some.
Take it how you want but the answer is obvious.., you yourself said you know what caused it,the way you wired it. So just undo it.

Or is there a reason you're doing it this way? Maybe I'm the ******* here but your problem doesn't make sense at all... There should be no reason to hook up the way you did. So please, clarify my thinking.

There are a ton of other places to pull power from, and as someone else stated; if you can't read the difference between switched and constant on a wiring diagram nothing said here is gonna help you.

Don't get me wrong I hope you get it worked out. I'm just befuddled.
 

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Like they said. Try again from scratch but figure out what you did wrong.
 

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I open a thread to seek help, not to be bashed and be thrown by otherwise useless comments for some.


That connector is unused. It was used by many users for their backup camera or relay, which I too used. One pin is for backup lamp. And the ignition 1 was used for some, an additional power socket. But it is known that it provides a whine when using to power a composite convertor and mhl to hdmi/apple tv, which I also faced.

But this thread is no longer needed, as i found a solution in the below link, where I now derive my power and ground from the radio.

http://www.g8board.com/forums/showthread.php?t=62275&page=2
Glad to hear you got it figured out. The easiest way to prevent whine is for all your audio components to be grounded in the same location. That gets difficult when you start adding amps and processors but it's not too hard when you're just trying to power a phone.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
There are a ton of other places to pull power from, and as someone else stated; if you can't read the difference between switched and constant on a wiring diagram nothing said here is gonna help you.
That i know. But like i said, many gives off a whine when accelerating, a known problem. Just like the issue with charging a phone through a car's original power sockets while connected to display video, itll make a high pitch sound. I know what each pin does, as the accessory pin turns off power with the door. Ignition pin cuts power after the key pulled. I found the one i used to provide power without sound, without knowing itll mess with the engine. Lesson learned.

Glad to hear you got it figured out. The easiest way to prevent whine is for all your audio components to be grounded in the same location. That gets difficult when you start adding amps and processors but it's not too hard when you're just trying to power a phone.
Thank you. Yeah the only thing that held me back was me assuming that the radio power was gonna be hard to find, only to look up a diagram of the radio, and see that it was possible to tap into. Now i can display my phone without any wires connected to my phone at all! Im using a HTC Media Link to stream wirelessly from my phone. Love the setup!
 
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