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If you want your transmission to last, yes.
 

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Definitely need one. A 3600 will generate a lot more heat. If you have the means, get a universal cooler and fab up some brackets yourself. You'll save some money over buying one of the kits. Otherwise, just get one of the available kits.
 

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Yes, it's a must for most aftermarket verters if not for all of them. (i'm sure somebody could find one that don't need one so just in case:))
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thats what I thought. My buddy just got a lot of work done at a local shop and they installed a aftermarket stall and no cooler. I thought that was a little strange. My mistake he has a 3200..


He went [email protected] with a 2.05 60' last year with a catback, vararam, and tune.

After install of 1 7/8 headers, full exhaust, 3200 stall and retune he went [email protected] with a 2.0 60'.
 

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Links to said kits?
 

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BOOOOOOOOOOST
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Thats what I thought. My buddy just got a lot of work done at a local shop and they installed a aftermarket stall and no cooler. I thought that was a little strange. My mistake he has a 3200..


He went [email protected] with a 2.05 60' last year with a catback, vararam, and tune.

After install of 1 7/8 headers, full exhaust, 3200 stall and retune he went [email protected] with a 2.0 60'.
He's probably spinning all over the place. Needs some DRs.
 

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Perhaps the retune was not good?, a tuned verter should give you .3-.5 sec less in the 1/4, easy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Perhaps the retune was not good?, a tuned verter should give you .3-.5 sec less in the 1/4, easy.

Thank you.. He not only added a Verter but LT headers, and Full exhaust as well. If he ran a 12.98 before those mods I would expect to see at least a 12.5 with the same 60', not the 13.0 he got.
 

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From watching the car at the track he 60'd better then before and the car was not all over the place. If his 60's were higher or if the car was spinning down the track I could understand.
Well, the stall won't make the car spin down the track. Just mainly on the launch. And once the tires actually catch, the car will get up and go. So something is up. Could be the tune.

But going down the track with a stall and no DRs is a great way to go home disappointed with **** times and such. If he is doing it on stock tires, he should either leave the gate easier or just switch to DRs.

With a stall, headers, CAI and a tune I was running 12.2s or so with DRs. Could not come close to hooking without. Different days and different track conditions will have a huge effect also.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
If you 60' the same with those mods as did before those mods I would hope you would run faster.

CAI, Catback, Tune.. 2.0 60' [email protected]
CAI, Catback, 3200 Stall, 1 7/8 headers, xpipes, tune.. 2.0 60' [email protected]

weather conditions about the same as well as DA



My 95 LT1 car had a 3200 stall as the only aftermarket mod..

Stock.. 1.9 60'.. [email protected] 100
stock with a 3200 stall, no tune.. 1.9 60'.. [email protected]
 

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Like I said. Sounds like driver/tire problems more than anything.
 

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I'm trying to put up the before & after numbers w/ DA corrected data. But cut and paste messes up the formatting and G8Board doesn't recognize .xlsx Spreadsheets.

My 60's where 2.06 before and 2.02 after. Problem is in the shifts. And I used to spin 2nd and chirp 3rd. Now It doesn't spin or chirp 2nd so my times should be better with 60 more WHP. Found the trans fluid to be 1 full quart over-filled PER CIRCLE-D's RECOMMENDATION. But according to some GM tech's over-filled 6L80's can have several symptoms, some being flare and slip. I won't make anymore runs until I install a cooler.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Like I said. Sounds like driver/tire problems more than anything.

Please explain?

I am under the assumption that if you cut a better 60' after the mods that you should run faster then you did before them correct?

This is the same shop that tuned my buddies T/a for a 100 shot said the same thing to him. " the reason why you are only gaining 3 mph on a 100 shot is because of your tires". He went out and got the tires the shop suggested and still only ran 3mph faster. We looked at his tune through a buddies HP tuners and it looks like it was tuned with a Predator or Maft translator. On a 100 shot you should at least see a 5-6mph increase over all motor.
 

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Like I said. Sounds like driver/tire problems more than anything.
+1

If its not cutting sub 2.0 60' after the 3200 Stall then someone doesn't know how to launch it or the tires are not hooking. One of the two...


Sent from AutoGuide.com App
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
+1

If its not cutting sub 2.0 60' after the 3200 Stall then someone doesn't know how to launch it or the tires are not hooking. One of the two...


Sent from AutoGuide.com App
So if I cut a 2.08 60' and ran a [email protected] before Headers,full exhaust and stall then get those mods and a tune and go back to the track and cut a 2.02 60' and run a [email protected] thats normal? I would have to cut a sub 2.0 to run the times that I ran in my car before those mods is what your saying? If thats the case then whats the point of doing those mods?

He wasnt out to get the best time he could, we were out to see what kind of gains the mods gave him. He cut a better 60' and still ran slower then before. I know if I dropped thousands of dollars into my car and cut a better 60' but ran slower then before I would be pissed especially if the track and weather conditions were better then before!
 
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