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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have noticed in the last few weeks that when applying brake pressure at any speed or severity that I get a bit shimmy in my steering wheel. I am sure this is brake related and since my last time at the track I know I really cooked them good and I have no clue how old or what pads are on the car other than they are what was on it when I bought the car 50k miles ago, pretty sure stock rotors. SO I want to go ahead and get new rotors and pads front and rear. Maryland Speed has a nice package set that will take care of that.
I just can't decide if I want the T2 rotors or the T3 clubspec Which some have had odd rust issues with. And which pad HPS or Performance ceramic. So to you guys that have tried these are the T3 rotors and Ceramic pads worth the extra money for stopping power and life of both pieces or just go with T2 and HPS???

Also doing the install of these parts I have done before on other cars, but I am sure I need new brake fluid as well how big of a pain in the butt is it to drain fluid and put new back in. Or is it worth just letting a good shop handle that part when I nest take it for a oil change and inspection sticker?
 

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Go to RotorPros.net I have replaced about 15 sets of rotors and pads with their products including my new slotted and dimpled setup on my GXP and would never go anywhere else. And you can not beat their prices!
 

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I would with the HPS for sure on the pads, not ceramic, for better bite. As far as flushing the system, it's as easy as they come, especially if you've done it before. Simple 2 man job and all it costs is new fluid.
 

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I've been running the DBA T3's with HPS's and its all 99% of us will ever need. Stopping power is awesome, they last, and are even good for a few laps at a time on the track. They dust a little but it washes off easy, and they only make a little grabbing noise right when coming to a complete stop.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks guys for the input. I think I will be going with the T3 and HPS pads. Now I need to find some info on flushing the brake system and needed tools changing brakes up to this point has just been installing new rotors and pads. If any one has any advice on the process would love to here it. I have bleed air out lines on motorcycles so I have an understanding of the process but information is always welcome.

@ Maryland Speed I will be giving you guys a call this coming week.
 

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Once you're done changing everything, have someone pump and hold the brake pedal, crack the bleeder valve to expel the old fluid, re-tighten the valve and repeat the process until the new fluid has reached the caliper. Now, just repeat the process on each corner. Make sure to start with wheel that's furthest from the ABS module (in our cars it's the rear drivers side) and work your way to the closest. Also, keep an eye on the master cylinder to not let the fluid get to low. I've heard if it gets to low, it can mess with the ABS. FYI, when I changed mine, I did the lines as well and the master cylinder was practically empty because I forgot to check it. But I just topped off the fluid and didn't have any problems.
 

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Go to RotorPros.net I have replaced about 15 sets of rotors and pads with their products including my new slotted and dimpled setup on my GXP and would never go anywhere else. And you can not beat their prices!
I just got a quote from RotorPros and I cannot believe their price. You cannot buy Chinese crap for that price. I'm planning on doing some road racing this summer, do you think their setup is up for it?
 

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I haven't heard a peep from mine. No extra dust either. Love them so far.
....peep. Now back to your regularly scheduled program.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Order my Brake setup from Maryland Speed on Wednesday and recieved my setup Thursday all but my rear rotors that is. Can't wait to get every thing installed. I went with DBA T3 clubspec and Hawk Performance Ceramics pads (I hate brake dust). Once they are installed and bedded in I will post up a review of them.

Thanks Maryland Speed for being so easy to deal with and the quick turn around time.
 

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Order my Brake setup from Maryland Speed on Wednesday and recieved my setup Thursday all but my rear rotors that is. Can't wait to get every thing installed. I went with DBA T3 clubspec and Hawk Performance Ceramics pads (I hate brake dust). Once they are installed and bedded in I will post up a review of them.

Thanks Maryland Speed for being so easy to deal with and the quick turn around time.
Did you get stainless lines as well? Although you won't notice much difference compared to stock lines right now, a few years down the road you would. They never expand or contract, always giving the same brake feel/pressure.
 

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I have noticed in the last few weeks that when applying brake pressure at any speed or severity that I get a bit shimmy in my steering wheel.
Have you tried rebedding? I've been driving with the same issue for awhile now. Last month I ran into a engineer from StopTech at the airport and he said this is usually due to build up rather than warping. Anyways I went through 1 set of 10 60-10 slow downs and the problem is almost gone.
 

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Have you tried rebedding? I've been driving with the same issue for awhile now. Last month I ran into a engineer from StopTech at the airport and he said this is usually due to build up rather than warping. Anyways I went through 1 set of 10 60-10 slow downs and the problem is almost gone.
+1. The shake my car had disappeared after a spirited drive along some twisty roads with a local car club. My shaking was not bad but it was completely gone after that trip.
 

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I just got a quote from RotorPros and I cannot believe their price. You cannot buy Chinese crap for that price. I'm planning on doing some road racing this summer, do you think their setup is up for it?
Follow up report on RotorPros: The quote was too good to be true because it was well "mis-quoted". When I started askng questions price went up $500. They seem to be buying Centrix rotors and doing there own machining and custom painting. Once I started checkin out Centrix and Stoptech at places like Anything Auto i was able to match or beat their price. The good thing is they are selling a quality product as I believe Centrix to be one of the best values in rotors on the market. So that's seems to be the skinny on RotorPros.
 

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FWIW, Advance auto carries DBA. Play the code game with 50 off ... buy each rotor individually and, for exapmple, get a front T3 for about 114 to your porch
 

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Merrick: Glad things worked out. Maryland speed is a good group to work with. I did my exhaust through them.

I made my decision last night also. Went with the Centric Stoptech SportStop drilled and sloted rotors, Hawk HPS pads, Russell Braided lines and ATE SuperBlue Racing Brake Fluid. Had to split the orders between companies to get best deal but got all for less than $700. With the Stoptech E-coat, I shouldn't have to worry about rust.

Now I'm looking at brake bleeders anyone have a preference ont the Griot's venturi vacuum style or the Motive pressure style?
 

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I'm also getting a shimmy in the brakes so am looking into brakes too. I'm at 45K miles now so I thought I'd get the parts now and then put them on at 50K.

I'd love to upgrade the brakes just to have nice calipers but I don't think i'm going to be able to on my stock 19" wheels. There's a ton of threads on here about the CTS-V, Camaro SS, or G8 GXP brakes so it's hard to get the info straight at times but it appears that none of these 3 options will work on the 19s without spacers and well, I don't want to do that. Do I have this correct?

Of course I could buy new wheels but the ones I want with tires will probably be like $3K and then I'd still have to buy all the brake parts too so I'm not going to do that at this time.

So to retain more of a stock setup I'm thinking of DBA T2s, Hawk ceramic pads and the stainless steel brake lines. If the Advance Auto Parts code strategy works I should be able to do all 4 wheels for under $650.

Without being able to get nice calipers I'd like to paint my current ones. At first I was just going to get new ones just so they were clean and easy to paint but I didn't realize they were like $200 give or take a bit and that's just not worth it to me. So if I'm going to paint the ones I have on there already, how much do I need to clean them up and how would I do that before painting them?

Based on my situation does this sound like my best and most affordable option or is there something I've missed? Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I had tried the rebedding to no avail. I have no clue how old the brakes are on my car other than they have been on it for the last 50k+ miles and I have given them hell, and with the way I drive I rather just replace and upgrade, plus I like the look of the T3 slotted rotors as well. Now if I just had the time to get them put on. My flooring project at my newly purchased house is taking all my spare time and soon as I get that done I have a kitchen to remodel and get moved in before June 1st. Might just have to pay a shop to do it and hope they do it right. I just haven't had any luck with local shops, hell one of them forgot to put the oil cap back on my Suburban after the oil change. I so much rather do things myself which is why I am doing the hardwood floor and kitchen remodel. Good thing we have my wife's car as well.
 

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OK everything arrived, here is the report, I bought the Stoptech Rotor from Discount Brake Center - very good prices, very poor shipping practices. They pulled the rotors out of the Centric OEM boxes and put 2 rotors separated by a small piece of cardboard in a USPS Flat Rate shipping box. No other packing material. I couldn't believe anyone would take a chance of shipping something like this, just to save on shipping costs. One box arrived 3 sides totally ripped open but no noticable damage to rotors. Follow on report to come after I get everything on board. I did get everything for less than $700 to my door. Quality of the rotors looks great.


 
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